For those that do your own valve adjustment

[Cooter]

That's a funny point zac4mac. Mike could be right in that the old Hot Cams shims are not quite hardened as much as what the factory provides. But so what?

As long as it makes it to each adjustment interval without being too far out of spec, who cares? I would actually prefer the softest shim possible to make it to each valve adjustment period. Why? There's going to be wear of some sort. I'd rather wear out a shim than a camshaft. I don't re-use shims for that reason and I'm anal so don't argue with me that it's unneccesary because you're right but they're cheap;)

If EBR feels a harder shim is a good midway between cam wear and long service intervals, who am I to disagree?

[LeesEBR]

zac4mac ... a diamond file will bite into steel, hardened or not. Poor testing method.

Furthermore, the cam doesn't directly act on (or make contact with) the shim...the cam acts on a follower which pushes on the shim. As a result, abrasion tests are utterly moot.

[d_adams]

I'll throw a penny into the mix here just because. If your shims are actually wearing down, then your bike is probably suffering from metal to metal contact. That tells me you're probably using the wrong oil or it's past the wear point or breakdown of the oil.
Normal wear would occur with the valve receding into the head slightly over time (from being hammered into it at extreme high rpm/speeds) which would tighten up the clearances. I'm on my 5th rotax based engine/bike now, I've seen it happen that way every time I've checked the valves.

Edit to note, if the shim itself is wearing, then the clearances will get larger, not smaller. Every time I've ever checked, they've always gone tight, not loose.

[Cooter]

Both you guys are right on the money. IMHO, I don't re-use shims because I think the follower is hammering the same spot of the shim 36,000,002 times between services, that tightens valve train clearances. Add some heat, extra miles, poor oil, and its a bad thing. Your engine won't like 0 and you'll know it.

Personally I haven't seen a shim worn down out of one of my bikes, and think it's ok to re-use them even though I don't. My anal theory is the follower is banging a divot in the middle, mushrooming it, work hardening it, softening it, whatever, its been beat and definitely hard to measure so it falls into the 'why not' category. I have a cheap basket full of new ones so.... "why not"? YMMV

I know it's dumb and overkill.

[EBRRider]

I am guessing you will do your valves before me , I am hoping that you will do a step by step with pics on your 1190. Not to much to ask for .

[Doosh]

Once you are at the motor, the procedure is essentially identical to the 1125r, so if you can get your hands on one of those service manuals it's helpful.

I still pull the frame on my 1190 bikes just to make the job easier, but you don't have to, and you don't have to rotate the motor, either.

[EBRRider]

When you say pull the frame ,do you mean the magnesium rear? Really I dont have to rotate the motor !

http://buellmods.com/

[Doosh]

No, the frame.

[d_adams]

Like this.

[EBRRider]

Ok , thank you both, great pic Dean , pic says alot , I have 2800 more miles to go.