Doing a leakdown test and I need to access the nut on the end of the crankshaft on the stator side to position tdc , normally you take the cover cap off ,and you can access the nut. Not on this bike. There is a snap ring. Anyone else open one up yet? Any help would be great. Also my stater **** the bed. I must have one of the ones with the o ring that were defective.
FWIW, the service videos show removal of the stator cover without removal of the cover cap, snap ring inside or anything else. Interestingly, the installation procedure does cover the snap ring and other associated components.
It's the same as an 1125. Pop off the plastic cover, remove the snap-ring, pull the aluminum plug out.
Thanks Guys,I'm one cautious guy when it comes to this bike ,read,and check twice ,lol. Made some mistakes that have costs me.
hi Kevin,
can you explain better where the leak you talking about comes from? i am curious as i too found few drops of oil, nothing major, around the oil filter cover and around the Drain plug, and i am nor sure where is it from; i checked around the stator cover but it is dry around there, i am thinking it might be the from the oil line coming out the crank case which goes into the radiator see pics below...
A leakdiwn test is to check the rings and valves for percentage of escaping air past said components. If your in the green ya don't need to shim valves,etc. Since I don't race,( on a track that is ) and bounce off the rev limiter all the time,the leakdown test saves some serious bucks. Looked at your pic ,looks pretty clean. Any oil on your oil cooler? Did you get an oil cooler guard( R & G ) one rock can ruin your whole day. I need to crank or jog the engine to tdc for forward and aft cylinders to preform the test,that's why I asked about the stator cover. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my description.
Umm, not exactly accurate there. The valves could be exceptionally loose and you'd get the same results with a leakdown test, assuming of course that the valves and seats are not damaged. A leakdown test will tell you a percentage of air leaking by either the rings or valves, POSSIBLY indicating a worn component. That's all. You also need to do a compression test to compare cylinder to cylinder. On the 1190's, I'd expect to see 150+ psi on a cold motor for both cylinders. Even then, it's still wiser to check the clearances rather than just guess at it and assume it's ok. If you've gone to the trouble of accessing the spark plugs, that means you've already pulled the airbox. It's probably 15 minutes more work to get the valve cover off the front cylinder at most. The rear will require a little more effort, but in all honesty, you'd be better off just checking them.Originally Posted by rx1190kevin
Sounds like a plan,I do have the airbox out and a clear field.oh well, what are the clearances for intake and exhaust?
VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT
INTAKE.........0.006"-0.007" (0.152-0.178mm)
EXHAUST.....0.012"-0.013" (0.305-0.330mm)
I see your point about having to check,thats a tight tolerance. Back when dirt was new I was a machinist,many a journal was that tight or tighter. Do you know where i can get the tdc lock tool for #1 cylinder? Owning a bike with no support is frustrating at times. To think that I traded in a perfectly good zx 14 for this, lol
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