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Thread: New owner question

  1. #1
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    New owner question

    I will be receiving my new SX in a couple days from San Diego and I know that removing the secondary muffler along with replacing the ECM with race tune are very beneficial but I'm curious at what point do I start making changes? Right away or after the initial break-in period? It will only have 9 miles on it when the shippers drop it off.

    What are the most common changes to make to maximize these bikes; it will only be a street bike with no track days? I'm not looking to throw a ton of money at it, but things that make the comfort and some performance better. Any California emissions items i should look at removing?

    Thanks
    Jeremy

  2. #2
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    I would break it in real easy with low rpms but not lugging it at all until the piston rings and clutches are bedded in properly. I changed my oil and filter after 150 miles, and that was 100 miles longer than I would have normally with a new motor. There was a little bit of manufacturing "specs" of metal and debris in there but nothing to be too alarmed about at this point. Most people change the oil for the first time at the manufacturer's recommended 620 miles, and I will too, for the second time.

    The noise emissions solenoid (search de-noid) can be disabled in three minutes time and seems to be 100% beneficial right from the beginning with not much more "noise" pollution.

    If performance is your thing and you're not too worried about the noise then look at removing both mufflers and getting the Dean Adams Designs pipes or s similar system and a programmable ECU to remap the fuel and timing. This won't hurt anything in the engine either, so long as the mapping is correct and not running the engine lean anywhere.

    In all actuality the EBR's are pretty good machines in stock form, and, from what I have read, only need an exhaust pipe system to let them breath and a race ECU to win on the track.

  3. #3
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    Sounds great, thanks for the info.

  4. #4
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    Motoman break-in method. Beat it like you stole it.




    Btw, this is what my 1190 RX sounds like. Yes, I ride it the same way.
    Last edited by d_adams; 09-12-2015 at 07:32 PM.

  5. #5
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    Thats a crazy video, thanks for sharing.

  6. #6
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    In reality...it doesn't matter one bit.
    If you have the new ECM on hand, plug it in, then take it out for a good breakin. Running properly is all that you care about, and it will...run better with the "Secondary Muffler Removal" ECM in place.

    I would have if I would have had one in hand..!

    While I haven't seen the above video, remember, the "main" thing you are "breaking in" is the piston rings. And the ONLY way that they will be properly broken in....is with pressure. The pressure that gets behind the rings from the compression stroke and forces the rings out is what does this work. Babying the throttle is NOT the way to do this. Remember though, hard on the throttle also requires a little "off" throttle time to let the rings cool a little.
    About a 50%-50% time period for hard throttle vs coasting or keeping up with traffic throttle.

    Been using this basic method with my cars and bike new engines with excellent long lasting, low leak-down ring seal for about 45+ years now.

    Mike

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    While I haven't seen the above video, remember, the "main" thing you are "breaking in" is the piston rings. And the ONLY way that they will be properly broken in....is with pressure. The pressure that gets behind the rings from the compression stroke and forces the rings out is what does this work. Babying the throttle is NOT the way to do this. Remember though, hard on the throttle also requires a little "off" throttle time to let the rings cool a little.
    About a 50%-50% time period for hard throttle vs coasting or keeping up with traffic throttle.

    Been using this basic method with my cars and bike new engines with excellent long lasting, low leak-down ring seal for about 45+ years now.

    Mike
    This is what a local circle track engine builder told me years ago too. Pressure against the ring from hard accelleration and no dry startups in the beginning is key to breaking in a set of rings quickly and tight.

  8. #8
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    Thanks Mike and Buell-Fan, that is great information, but I do have one question....what is dry startups and how do I prevent them?

    Man I can't wait; got notified that the shippers picked up the bike on Saturday and will be about 2 weeks to get it across country. I'm so jonesing to get on it and ride the crap out of it. In the proper method listed above.

    Thanks again. I think I'm going to try to pick up the ECM while its in shipping, install it, complete the break-in period, then look for tips when I remove the secondary muffler.

  9. #9
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    "Dry startups" is when a builder doesn't use any type of assembly lube on the bearings and cylinder walls and the motor runs dry metal on metal until the oil gets slung around for the very first startup. You don't need to be worried about this, as the bike has been ran and verified in good running condition by the factory and then the dealer. I would assume they use some type of lube in East Troy.

  10. #10
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    Awesome, thanks 10 days and counting down till I finally take delivery of mine. The funny part is that I've already made my first payment on it and don't even have it to enjoy yet.

    Oh well, it will make it here eventually.

    Thanks everyone for all the feedback and recommendations.

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