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Thread: Lets Talk Chain and Sprockets

  1. #31
    EBRforum Junkie zviadi's Avatar
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    Where to buy front sprocket?
    EBR 1190 RX

  2. #32
    EBRforum Novice mackja's Avatar
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    You should be able to order OEM parts from N.C.C.R. Northern Classic, Custom & Race, think they are located in Netherlands, they show sprocket available, among many other parts and accessories.

  3. #33
    EBRforum Junkie zviadi's Avatar
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    Thanx!
    EBR 1190 RX

  4. #34
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    Just got my bike back from the Break in service. Rode for one hour stopped to get gas and noticed all sorts of metal shavings above the chain guard, on my rear rim, on the kickstand, and underneath what I believe is the tension wheel.

    I think that the chain is fairly loose as well. I'm not that mechanical. But I am assuming that small metal wheel with rubber on either side is some sort of tension wheel. As I look at it from the front of the bike underneath. It looks as if the metal part should be centered in the middle of the chain allowing the rubber to rest on either side of the links themselves.

    I am not certain but it looks like it is a little too inboard and therefore could be rubbing on the wrong part of the chain and causing the tension wheel to get grinded down. It does look rough around the edges but I cannot be certain. Anyone else have this issue?

  5. #35
    EBRforum ProvNov rx1190kevin's Avatar
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    My rear sprocket was ruined because I followed the spec's for chain slack in the owners manual. I even called Adam Wells at EBR and asked him if the spec's were correct. They are NOT right. The bike suspension geometry will tear up the sprocket. I leave my chain at about an inch or so. Besides the chain tensioner works great for slack. Have put about 4,000 miles on new sprocket,looks great. Af1 has both rear and aft final drive sprockets

  6. #36
    EBRforum Junkie zviadi's Avatar
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    Describe in more detail - that incorrectly stated in the manual?

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    If you believe this picture, the distance from the bottom of the chain link to the swingarm should be 30 ± 2 mm. You leave 25 mm, less than specified in the manual.
    Under these conditions, the probability of failure chain and rear sprocket is higher, because chain tensioned stronger.
    EBR 1190 RX

  7. #37
    EBRforum Junkie zviadi's Avatar
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    I rode this bike has 7,500 km, chain and sprokets like new. Do not tighten the chain once.
    EBR 1190 RX

  8. #38
    EBRforum Novice mackja's Avatar
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    I have adjusted mine according to EBR manual, I clean and lube on a frequent basis and after 5000 miles I have no noticeable wear on my chain or sprockets, they still look like new.

  9. #39
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    I'm with rx1190kevin. I killed the rear sprocket running right at 30mm slack. Ripped 4 teeth off in about 4k miles. EBR replaced under warranty for me (note: the owner's manual does not have a timeline for replacing sprockets and chain).

    Ripped 3 more teeth off of new rear sprocket (checking frequently, at 30mm slack) by 7500 miles. Replaced chain with DID X Ring, front sprocket with OEM, rear sprocket with vortex now. Running chain bit tighter now probably closer to 25-20mm. Lets see if that holds. Front sprocket was smoked at 7500 miles, too. OEM chain was stretched and generally worn out.

  10. #40
    EBRforum Junkie Classax's Avatar
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    I’m not saying I’m right or know it all when it comes to this stuff; I can only provide my personal experience after 12k miles. On this bike the chain slack is checked at the top and tension remains the same 30mm throughout the travel of the swing arm as opposed to conventional setups where the chain gets tighter as moves through its travel from center towards the ends. With the EBR there is almost no rear static sag and the bike sits at the top of its travel at a rest.

    Running the chain too loose will cause it to eat though the chain rub and into the swing arm itself VERY QUICKLY. When setting the chain tension you have to be aware that as you tighten the axle nut it will increase the tension a few mm so don’t be just set it at 30mm and then torque it down or you will actually be running 25mm which is too tight. I found that the stock chain may as well have been made out of taffy because it stretched every hard ride. Then again it is a 520 race chain and most bikes with this much power are sporting 525 and 530( that weigh a TON)chain. Too loose a chain and wheelie or eight hard launches or a bumpy track allow for chain snatch ( when set right the EBR has nearly none) which is an excellent way to shear a few teeth off even a new sprocket. The cush protects the front sprocket and tranny ( not to mention centralizing the weight( even though it’s a heavier set up overall than a conventional set up)) so rear sprocket wear is going to be higher.

    I ditched the stock chain at 7.5K miles for a DID 520 Z-VMX chain. NO chain stretch since. The side plates are ever so slightly more narrow than stock so there is some side ware to the sprocket teeth but nothing worth concern. It’s a little heavier than the 520 ER but it is also a little stronger and about the same price while still being lighter than the OEM chain. Next time I will go with the 520 ER. In my experience too loose is far more dangerous on this bike than too tight, but too tight is easy to do accidently and it winds up WAY too tight. Set it per the manual but when the axel nut is loose it should be at about 35mm because when you torque the axel nut the chain will tighten a bit. Lastly you must be absolutely sure about the rear wheel alignment or you will set the whole bike up to have a bad day. You do not want the chain bowing side to side when leaned over or on decal enough to touch the sides or you will have a very bad day.

    Chain too tight- No whine on decel, bumpy rear suspension like you have too much compression- sprockets teeth bend towards front of bike at the TIPS

    Chain too loose- Excessive whine on decal, may be even a clattering sound from contact with the chain rub SIDES, suspension feels like you have rear too little rebound, bike chews through chain rub, chain snatch on off throttle and will shear teeth. Sprocket teeth look like ocean waves.

    Chain goldie-locks zone – Whine on decal, chain flap side to side and contact the sides of chain rub. Sprocket teeth stay straight but narrow to points as they wear.

    That's just what I have seen on this bike. On others you set your chain to SMILE and away you go. The EBR is much finickier about stuff like this since it takes a different approach in the way its engineered to perform.

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