If EBR is re-opened, do you think that all prior warranty claims would be discharged? I'm not a bankruptcy expert but understand that only a Federal bankruptcy can actually discharge debt.
If EBR is re-opened, do you think that all prior warranty claims would be discharged? I'm not a bankruptcy expert but understand that only a Federal bankruptcy can actually discharge debt.
So you think all warranty claims for any bike purchased prior to the bankruptcy will be discharged? What about those going forward after the close of BK?
OK, So, I just bought a RX and my low fuel light was stuck on as well.... I did repair it, and figured I would share my findings. To remove the pump without the "special tool" you need a slide hammer, Harbor freight sells them for under 20 bucks I think. You will also need a long (3 inches or so) 6MM bolt. stick the bolt through the slide hammer nut, then thread into the center hole in the pump asm. Two light taps from the hammer and my pump was on the floor. Upon inspection, it looks like all the wires are fine, but a continuity test showed an open. While the connectors were all plugged in, when you pull the plastic ends, the wire just falls out of them. It's as if the crimps were too hard, causing the wire to be damn near cut in half where it's crimped at the connector.
SO... spliced wires together with heat shrink butt connectors, plugged into bike, lifted float and within 30 seconds, light off. The float is SO simple, a magnet in a foam float sliding up and down on a plastic stick, the I can't imagine in a million years that this thing could "fail"... It's just not that complicated! I will post photos when I'm home and off the work computer. Oh, and as to a previous post about the O-rings swelling, he was correct, mine did this as well... I work at an auto parts store, and hunted until I found new O-rings. Just buy 2 Mobil 1 oil filters, part number M1C-151 and snag the O-rings out of the box, they are the same as what's is in our bikes. I would not even waste time trying to get old ones back in, In my opinion, that's just asking for a leak!
Slather some grease or silicone paste around the o- rings, line up the alignment tab at the bottom and it will damn near just push back in. A light tap with a plastic hammer to seat and put that massive snap ring back in, and your ready to go! I hope this helps somebody else, and if you have any questions, just ask!
Excellent! Thank you.
Hi guys
Just did the same thing to my RX after running all summer with the reserve light on.
Be sure to take the connections apart, otherwise you woun't notice the problem.
See attached pictures.
The job is really a PITA, and mine was further complicated by the fact that (I guess) the wrong grade of Loctite was used on the screw that holds the small plastic cover on the right hand side.
It screws into the end of the swinging arm, and it's really a stupid design in my opinion. Even when I was ever so care full, the screw snapped, there's no way you can heat the damn thing.
I made a aluminium spacer so that the plastic cover has something to butt up against, avoiding the Loctite. See pic.
Now for the really dumb thing, the bike will not start, the fuel pump runs, the starter spins but apparently no sparks. There is fuel at the injectors, I have checked the fuses and swapped the Ign. relay with the Aux. one.
When I had put the fuel pump back into the bike, attached hose, wiring and fuel, I would test if the reserve light had stopped being on.
If you just turn on the ignition it woun't disappear so I thumbed the starter a few times to start it. It wouldn't.
I the noticed that I had not screwed the main earth back into the frame.....bugger.
So I might have "fried" something? Nothing that I can see has been hot.
Any ideas please?
Bike is a RX, but the issue is the same
The issue about the non starting has been copied to a new thread in the RX part of the forum.
Last edited by volf; 10-31-2016 at 02:07 AM. Reason: Part of thread moved.