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Thread: Fuel light stays on

  1. #21
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    Thanks!

  2. #22
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    Anyone done the fix yet? I mean correcting the thermistor issue without having to replace the entire pump assembly. If so, please share. Thanks.

  3. #23
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    I pulled out the pump. It's Version B. I could find no crimps in any of the wires. Now what?

  4. #24
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    Can you post up some pics of the pump? Thanks.

  5. #25
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    I already put it back in because the rubber o-rings immediately started expanding and I didn't want them to get any bigger. It looked just like the fuel pump in the EBR Shop Manual video,#169 and #170. No splices. This is very different than the fuel pumps shown in line for the Buell 1125s. I did wiggle the wires on the sensor a bit, maybe that will solve the problem. I doubt it, though.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadking1 View Post
    I already put it back in because the rubber o-rings immediately started expanding and I didn't want them to get any bigger. It looked just like the fuel pump in the EBR Shop Manual video,#169 and #170. No splices. This is very different than the fuel pumps shown in line for the Buell 1125s. I did wiggle the wires on the sensor a bit, maybe that will solve the problem. I doubt it, though.
    OK, were you able to determine which component was the thermistor? I am hoping we can find a suitable replacement. Also, if you can describe what you needed to do to get the room to remove the pump this would be a big help. Thanks.

  7. #27
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    The troublesome pumps that had poor terminal crimps had pinkish/red connectors for all of the wires coming from the float itself.

  8. #28
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    I needed to remove the swingarm. Not really a difficult task but it requires a special 22 mm hex bit. I couldn't find one anywhere but the dealer kindly let me borrow a special EBR socket type bit made just for that. You first remove the tire, unbolt the shock, unplug the two connectors on the swingarm, loosen the crimp bolt and unscrew the swingarm axle (it's just one sided). You then need to remove the large snap ring (small snap ring pliers wont work, you need big ones). After you have removed that, you need the special fuel pump puller that EBR makes to slowly the pump from the frame (of course you first have to drain all fuel). Honestly, if you have the right tools the whole job won't take more than thirty minutes.

    I'll try to take a picture of the actual part with the float attached. There was a number on it. There were no crimps, however. Just two small gauge black wires that went down to the base of the pump and into a grommet to exit the pump along with two or three other wires.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadking1 View Post
    I needed to remove the swingarm. Not really a difficult task but it requires a special 22 mm hex bit. I couldn't find one anywhere but the dealer kindly let me borrow a special EBR socket type bit made just for that. You first remove the tire, unbolt the shock, unplug the two connectors on the swingarm, loosen the crimp bolt and unscrew the swingarm axle (it's just one sided). You then need to remove the large snap ring (small snap ring pliers wont work, you need big ones). After you have removed that, you need the special fuel pump puller that EBR makes to slowly the pump from the frame (of course you first have to drain all fuel). Honestly, if you have the right tools the whole job won't take more than thirty minutes.

    I'll try to take a picture of the actual part with the float attached. There was a number on it. There were no crimps, however. Just two small gauge black wires that went down to the base of the pump and into a grommet to exit the pump along with two or three other wires.
    FYI, this hex bit that you speak of should be the same one that also fits the front axle and is found is the tool kit in your tail section.

  10. #30
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    Really? Wow, I never thought to look there! Man, I wasted hours looking around for one. Thanks.

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