Am I Too Anxious

[dsilver1007]

Very recently, last weekend actually, I traded my 2014 yamaha supertenere for a 2014 1190sx. I got it from the original owner (older gentlemen in his 50s or 60's) and it is completely stock.

While also joining the EBR facebook page I did some research and made a post where a few of the members mentioned cleaning, changing, and retorqueing the clutch nut. I don't mind doing preventative maintenance and I did see/hear of some early 1190 motors having the clutch nut backing out I wasn't sure if those stories weren't blown out of proportion.

What is y'alls consensus on this problem?

Thank you in advance for the help, this place seems to be a wonderful community!

[Cooter]

if those stories weren't blown out of proportion.

You did say "FaceBook" right?

Hello, and welcome! It's pretty quiet here, but asking for a second opinion is a prudent thing to do. IMO, yes, blown way out of proportion but also not worth the worry, NOT to check it. If you have basic mechanical knowledge, hand tools, and a cheap torque wrench it's less than a one beer job.

*You should use the lock out tool, you can do it without one, or I can let you borrow mine.

[dsilver1007]

Thank you for the advice!

I have seen that it is pretty quiet here but very good information to be had. Facebook has its good qualities but it also gives everyone a chance to voice their opinion (or the opinion of others they have coined as there own).

I'm relatively passable with mechanical knowledge but obviously not the best around. One beer jobs for me seem to turn into three at minimum, sometimes the extra couple is a nice night in the shop. What do you use for a tool instead of the lockout tool? Large pin punch to hold it?

Thank you again for all the help!

[Cooter]

You share my feelings on FB exactly
Yes, an appropriate sized pin punch will work, or the usual H-D 'jam the gears together' with a piece of aluminum/brass. TDC isn't critical at all, you just need to hold against the torquing of the nut. If that all makes you nervous, I can send my tool out to you, to borrow.

Even though EBR has video form procedures posted on YouTube and the parts diagram is excellent, you can use the 1125 service manual for most step-by-step procedures, this one included. Although I have found my EBR to be perfectly reliable in street trim, I highly recommend familiarizing yourself with this machine. It has more to do with my mis-trust of most motorcycle mechanics than the motorcycle itself:(

BTW, if it truly is totally stock the list of must-do upgrades is short but very rewarding! They are all posted on here somewhere;)

1) Your bike is a very early one. Not sure if they still do it, but EBR used to update the dash for free. You can check by the software number... or by what the turn signal indicators look like. IDSpd.com may do it too? I dunno.
2) A 43 tooth rear sprocket will change your life. It will also change the gear indicator lol. Also, can be fixed with an ECM
3) Quickshifter. The 'New Buell' one is pricey but amazing, the one from Rev-Mo.com works well, or adding a Dynojet sensor and wiring it in yourself works the same.
4) Oberon clutch slave cylinder. Took that heavy clutch pull to HALF of what it was OE. Literally from 15lbs to 7lbs
5) Keep an eye on the chain guide in the rear before the chain saws through the swingarm. Caused by lugging the bike at sub-4K RPM or rear sprocket on backwards.
6) Take off the resonator and do the 'tips' with the matching ECM. It's not too loud and one of the biggest improvements I've ever seen on a dyno from a flash tune. IDSpd.com
7) Keep a fresh battery in it and RIDE it. These hate sitting more than most, and slow cranking is a killer. Keep in mind Eric Buell himself said it is a 'legitimate race engine in a street bike'. It lives for high-RPM shenanigans and and eye on maintenance. Starting it without RIDING it is bad. Lugging them around on short trips aint what they were meant for and she will tell you by being grumpy

Have fun! I STILL love the crap out of mine.

[dsilver1007]

Appropriate size pinpunch shoulnd't be hard for me to come across (I have a bad addiction of buying them at the local flea market if I find a good USA made one). What loctite do you use? I've heard conflicting opinions, which is no surprise.

1) I will look into the dash update. What does it change?
2) the 43 tooth sprocket will fit without a chain change correct?
3) Is the quickshifter hard to wire in?
4) Im used to old school cable operated clutch so the current clutch pull on the 1190 feels amazing
5) I need to be keen on giving her the beans. I've never been much of a revver but I need to change my ways.
6) Not real familiar on what what you mean by resonator but I will look it up! I've always been hesitant of sending out ECM/ECU but I guess that's the nature of the beast
7) Wasn't aware about the fresh battery thing. I will keep a hot one in there for certain!! Wonder what size it is?

Also while you're here Cooter, I live in upstate SC with pretty warm weather across the board. I believe i need to run 20w-50 v twin oil. I change my oil regularly and religiously. What brand do you recommend

[Cooter]

Clutch hub nut: Good ol' 241 Red. Plan on heat to remove, I use red because if you EVER need to be there again it's a bad day already.

1) I forget exactly, battery draw IIRC? It's in here somewhere. Oddly it also swap the turn signal indicators from Black/Green to Green/Black.
2) I even fit a 44 on mine
3) Easy for me:) I did wrote an article on here about them.
4) Me too, but dang it was too much for me!
5) Ride it hard or soft, whatever. Don't let the V-twin torque make you forget they were built for RPM
6) The muffler is the thing on the bottom, the resonator is the thing that looks like a typical motorcycle exhaust. You can remove that whole resonator can, and the put "tips" on the dual exhaust outlets. Sounds amazing.
7) Shorai (OE) is still around and have supplied me with batteries even though they aren't listed anymore, BUT there's plenty of high quality Li-Ion batteries to find now! Just search by dimensions.

As long as it is motorcycle rated "JASO" and "V-twin specific" IMHO, I don't care if its synth, Dino, or a mix. 20w-50 should be fine for anything less than flogging it on a track, in Florida, in the summer, at 2pm, on a friday....;)

Or go all full cray-cray with APH:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a2lqBS2gSmk

[dsilver1007]

241 got it! That's what we use for the starter nut on our flat track bikes.

1) That makes sense about battery draw i will look into that.
2) Bet a 44 makes for a wild ride.
3) After taking it for a quick ride this weekend I could see how a quickershifter would be beneficial!
5) It seemed like it enjoyed cruising the most around 5k RPM
6) I can't lie, I like the look of the stock resonator I'd be hesitant to remove it but if it makes it sound better I could be easily swayed!
7) I probably will go with Shorai whenever the time comes.

Florida, in the summer, at 2pm on a Friday sounds like you are speaking from experience! lol

FINALLY got a chance for a very brief ride this weekend. Like i said before it seemed like it enjoyed 5000k or close to that. It was extremely smooth once it got moving and very deceivingly fast because it was so quiet.

One thing i noticed) I checked the manual for how to measure the oil level and it seemed to be at a safe level (not quite halfway up the sight window) but at start up it said low oil level and once I turned it off and started it again it said the same thing. When moving the alert went away. Maybe it was just barely low enough on oil to alert the sensor?

[Cooter]

Theres no oil level sensor on the EBR. You need to keep it in the middle of the glass yourself:) The "Low oil" warning means oil pressure. It will light with the ignition on/engine off because the oil pump in engine driven and only works with the engine running

[dsilver1007]

That makes a lot of sense!

Thank you for all your help and expertise. It is appreciated!

[Cooter]

You're welcome. Happy to help with whatever random info I know, lol. Enjoy that beast!