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Thread: My first EBR

  1. #11
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    That dirt splatter up into the cockpit is very odd; I have over 18k on my RX (also Red) with thousands of those in wet weather - never had anything like that at all, worst it's ever been is rain spots on the dash screen, and I've ridden in some pretty torrential downpours (a New England specialty).

    Be careful going to an OEM exhaust if you intend to continue riding in the rain. The rear of the converter box immediately in front of the rear wheel on mine is very badly corroded, I don't expect mine to make it to the end of 2023, there is rust flaking off all over that area.

    NCCR has a "less loud" exhaust option - https://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buel...-sweep-up-sc-p - that will clear most noise regs with the dB insert fitted. This does not fit with the standard passenger footpeg brackets nor the EBR/NCCR luggage rack, I asked Jens for a modified up-pipe to work with the stock layout, hopefully I will be able to switch to this exhaust before my OEM dies.

    The radiators do take a beating, definitely. The SX comes with radiator guards from the factory, but for some reason the RX doesn't. I got R&G as well, the coolant guards fitted perfectly, the oil cooler guard needed a fair amount of persuasion to fit, though it could have been damaged in transit.

    I fitted the R&G tail tidy to mine, much preferred the tidy look - not as ridiculous as the RSV4, but too ugly imho. Proton 500 flush-fit indicators for the front and...still looking for rears that are aesthetically appealing (to me) and can actually be seen in daylight.
    Last edited by ACM; 01-20-2023 at 03:32 AM.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACM View Post
    ...looking for rears that are aesthetically appealing (to me) and can actually be seen in daylight.
    Thats the trick, ain't it! I consider turn signals, handles bars, pegs, and mirrors to be disposable items. So forever looking for some that are bright enough but not the same $20 e-bay ones in a fancy-pants $180 package.

  3. #13
    EBRforum Newb 9RX's Avatar
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    Haha, have you seen Barber is apparently getting 3 more! ;)

    >>>> https://www.bringthebikeshome.com/


    Any input on tuning the bike?
    I am most likely getting the stock silencer, and would likely need to re-tune the bike. Is there any way to flash this bike or a legit place I could bring it to? send the ECU to?

  4. #14
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    They tried selling them for awhile, but this seems better than languishing in some collectors living room. It would be awesome to go and meet them face to face!

    IMO, no need to tune it going with a stock can. I'm currently running the APH/Dean tune and a stock can/resonator delete with no adverse effects. The ECM does have some closed loop adjustability.

    Tuned ECM's are found at IDS. https://idspd.com/xcart/products-ebr .

  5. #15
    EBRforum Newb 9RX's Avatar
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    Hey @ACM,
    sorry I missed your message, didn't see the page 2 and was answering old messages from page 1.
    Thanks for all the recommendations, I got the R&G radiator guards too. Will install them soon.

    Also YES, Proton 500 for the win. I installed these on an FZ1 I used to have. they are amazing and built well.

    For the fender eliminator I think I will try to make something with a New Rage Cycles set. they don't make it for our bikes but it looks great and shouldn't be difficult to adapt to the EBR.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The SC project exhaust from NCCR is what I was thinking about too. I actually saw in one of their videos where they talk about the stock silencer box rusting, thanks for confirming, I'll avoid that then.
    I would prefer to keep the exhaust below the bike for keeping mass low to the ground and avoiding bits and peaces to the sides, I kind of like the bike clean without a can on the side.

    Right now I'm working on fabricating a baffle for the Dean Adams, we'll see how that goes. Yeah I know, back pressure is bad, and such. I'm working on something not too restrictive, just a more tortuous path towards the end of the exhaust line as to dissipate sound into the packing better. work in progress...




    @Cooter
    I'd love to go to that weekend at Barber, I've actually never been.

    What do you mean by closed loop adjustability? I'm not familiar with ECU mods. I have actually never dynoed, flashed, or even installed Power Commanders on any bike.
    I am only starting to mess with the ECU on my GSX-S 1000, I bought a Flash Tune ecu kit so I can flash it myself. I haven't got to do it yet though. So I don't have much knowledge on this.
    If going with IDS, does this mean you just buy a whole new ECM just for the tune? And then buy another ECM with a different tune if you changed something on the bike?
    Last edited by 9RX; 01-25-2023 at 12:03 AM.

  6. #16
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    RG makes a small tail tidy that bolts in the same location as stock. I love the different one I got off E-bay that moves it way forward and has a block off plate for the removed OE stuff. it's REALLY bright! The whole thing is running lights, top is brake, the lower of each side is turn. Basically a plate frame with LED's that attaches to the seat bolt and plugs it to the stock harness in the tail.



    Dude, Barber is worth the trip. Mecca

    Don't worry about 'backpressue losing torque' lol. Your grampa was wrong, lol. And besides.. have you SEEN that torque curve!!

    Your specific Dean A one:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Adding a dB killer (within reason) won't change a damn thing, but can lower the volume pretty well. I forget the exact size you need but try this style, it worked pretty well on my homemade XB can:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/38533575533...Bk9SR4qm76e9YQ

    ALL OE fuel injection ECM's run in 2 modes*, Closed Loop for part-throttle cruising and Open Loop for 'dramatic throttle inputs' if you know what I mean.

    Closed Loop is where the ECM reads whats coming out of the engine (the O2 sensor), self-adjusts whats going in (injectors), reads the sensor, again, adjusts, injects, reads, many times a second, like a loop... a closed loop, so it's always injecting the perfect amount of gas to be stoic (14.7:1). Best emissions, best economy, no fouled plugs, not lean. These no need more fuel at part throttle, it would just be wasted black smoke out the back, no 'The EPA makes them run lean on the highway' bull**** old wives tales.

    Any modifications to the ECM, like a flash tune, should NOT affect this Closed Loop. It's already injecting the perfect amount of gas because it can read it (O2). More gas would just be wasted out the pipe. Thats why it doesn't need a (baro) sensor for elevation either, its reading whats coming out of the engine so it will automatically adjust for any thinner air going in, many times a second.

    Open Loop is where the 'tunes' mess around. When you slam WOT there isn't enough time for the Closed Loop ECM to read the output, adjust, and then put in what you're asking for, so it switches to Open Loop where there is a fueling map built in that has RPM (Tach) on one axis and engine load (MAP/TPS sensor) on the other. This is pre-programmed into the ECM so when you whack open the throttle the ECM knows exactly what to do, right away. Oh! I'm a happy little ECM! The TPS just said he cranked the throttle open! Where am I? Oh this RPM and this load so BAM look at the Open Loop map and I immediately know I need exactly this much fuel for max power without looking at the O2 sensor.

    The Open Loop is where the factory spends a LOT of time on the dyno to keep drivability, power, throttle response, and yes EPA emissions in check. What aftermarket tunes do, is allow more fuel/timing, faster without the EPA mandated emission limits. There is some auto-adjustability built in to the OEM Open Loop as well, but still with those restrictions.

    ECM's or tune flashes do the same thing, replace the Open Loop map with one made by someone that ran a bike like yours on the dyno and adjusted it to what they like.
    Piggy back ECM's are lame (IMO) and pretty limited to what they can do. Limited to tricking the ECM into just giving more fuel all around. Typically using the temp sensor input to make the ECM think its cold (just more gas, all the time, lame), or slightly better, intercepting the O2 sensor signal and lowering the voltage to... just add more gas all the time. They might even have a dial for more or less fuel, but its still trying to paint with a sledgehammer.

    Yes, buy an ECM from a reputable source (like IDS), swap it out and you're done. If you change exhaust, sure get another one if you want (they're cheap) but not necessary IMO. OE ECM with OE exhaust, or aftermarket ECM with any aftermarket exhaust. Aftermarket exhaust are all so similar that the little bit of Open Loop adjustability I mentioned is enough to keep the engine at max efficiency.
    IDS also sells a 'tunable' ECM for racers, but it runs Open Loop ONLY and needs a qualified engine tuner and a dyno to effectively be utilized.

    *Oversimplification warning!

    TL:DR IMO, your Dean A tuned ECM is fine, even if you put a dB killer in or put the SC pipe on. YMMV, and they're cheap if you'll feel better buying one.

  7. #17
    EBRforum Newb 9RX's Avatar
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    Cool, that's great info on the ECU. thanks a lot. The access to features other than "adding fuel" is what I was after on my GSX, such as the "deceleration fuel cut off" which can cause jerky throttle onset. Still haven't set everything up yet though.

    I'm not too worried about back pressure from the baffle influencing torque. My concern is more about detonation, scavenging, as well as heat extraction. Example, in theory, I was wondering if too much restriction could keep heat in the headers and cook the exhaust valves. things like that. Overall my concern is more about motorcycle health than chasing performance, particularly with the EBR since getting parts (let alone an engine) is a pita. Priority 1 is for the bike to keep running well, performance is added bonus but not much a concern. Like you showed above it makes in the 180hp... the bike - is fine... Haha!
    I think you're right though, it will be fine with a baffle. Thanks for your suggestion.

    I like that rear light. I'm trying to adapt something similar, just not too far in like yours (trying to keep legal or just not give them any reasons to add-up more lines to the ticket). I saw the R&G tail tidy but I don't like that rear light, it's just some standard oval shape that doesn't fit the form anywhere on the EBR.
    I'll try building something custom.

    I'll let you guys know if I go to Barber, we should try some EBR owners gathering with the forum members.

  8. #18
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    It would have to be one heck of a restriction, bordering on fully plugged exhaust, and then run for a long time to cause engine issues like that. V-twins do put out a large volume of air/cyl and the header pipes will glow normally so just don't go crazy and you should be fine

    APH exhaust is re-packable and very similar to the Dean pipe, but theres no amount of packing that has made it a comfortable volume for the street. Well, comfortable for the neighbors anyway

    The tail tidy is kinda one or the other, it has to clear the tire:/ The tail is high enough that under the seat is actually pretty well visible from the rear and left/right, and I haven't even had any police-type issues (for that). I like the RG but agree with you on the universal café bike looking lens not matching up. I can't imagine it would be hard to get the RG for the bracket and signals, then adapt a taillight shaped the way you like? Custom is always better than bolt-on anyway. I'd love to see pics with what you end up with

  9. #19
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    That's what I did Cooter, I swapped out the terminally naff R&G tail light for a Koso unit :
    https://kosonorthamerica.com/product...taillight-red/

    There's a smoke lens version as well, I just felt the red one would look better on a red bike.

  10. #20
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    That lens shape looks really good! Any pics on the bike?

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