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Thread: Clutch issues

  1. #1
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    Clutch issues

    I have a 2014 RX, purchased NOS in 2018, I'm at around 18k miles right now. It has the non-functional low fuel light issue and I had to replace the front rotor for what sounds like the issues the early bikes had; the last few digits of the VIN are EE300310 if that helps. I have been running Motul 7100 since the first 600 mile service, I change the oil & filter every 3k miles and last thing at the end of the riding season - New England, so Nov or Dec, and riding again in April with a little luck.

    This season I have started having clutch issues, they occur on rides lasting more than 200 miles; shortly after 200 miles I start having trouble finding neutral at a stop. As the miles progress I find the shifter completely immovable at a stop, never mind finding neutral, I simply cannot even change gear at all with the violence I am willing to inflict on the shifter. Shortly after that, maybe 250 miles or so, the clutch starts to drag and I have to use a brake to stop the bike moving forward. By 300 miles the rear brake can no longer hold the bike in check easily and I need to use the front brake to stop the bike moving forward.

    I bled the system through with (fresh) Motul RBF600, and that definitely improved the action, but it didn't change the above symptoms, so I'm not sure where to go next. I don't have any experience with hydraulic clutches on motorcycles, all my other bikes since the 70's have had cable clutches, this is my very first hydraulic clutch, so I'm hoping there's a knowledge base here ?

    Thanks,
    Charles

  2. #2
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Sitting for 4 years is a bitch on a high performance motorcycle. Stock levers? One of 3 things is happening, but your results will be the same.

    The lever isn't allowing the piston to return in the bore enough, the M/C piston is sticking, or your transfer port is clogged.

    Look into the master cylinder and see theres two holes in the bottom. Look REAL close at the big hole and slowly activate the lever. You want to see the black piston seal pass the big hole, and return completely past it, back to open, as you release. If it's not returning enough or sticking it won't let fluid from the master into the line and won't have enough pressure to release the clutch.

    The other hole (transfer port) is super small and needs to be cleaned out. A cheap set of Jewelers drills is perfect for this and can get the hard crust out, but I've had luck with a tiny needle, or thin stiff wire.

    Depending on your mechanical ability:
    The seal is fine so disassembly, sonic cleaning, and re assembly will be fine,
    OR 19mm rebuild kits are cheap and almost universal,
    OR just buy a new 19mm radial master that fits 7/8" bars. I probably have a stock EBR one if you want it.

    FYI the Oberon clutch slave piston (Buell 1125 V2 cover is the same application) is an AMAZING upgrade that reduces clutch pull by HALF (I wrote a step-by-step thread), and upgrading to a high quality 19mm master like Brembo is very worthwhile as well.

    Post up what you find.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Cooter - the levers are OEM, everything in the clutch system is still OEM. I was planning on changing to the Oberon slave, but that's on hold until I figure this issue out. I will be changing to ASV levers in the near future, but again, not until I figure this out.

  4. #4
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Good to know the info and smart move to try to fix it before modding it. Remember if you end up replacing the master, a nice master like a Brembo comes with it's own lever. Get a 19mm for 7/8" bars.

    My moneys on that.

    Could be something as simple as being low on fluid, but I assumed checked that first. You'd notice a leak, and should be flushing that fluid every year anyway right?

  5. #5
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    Did this get resolved? Curious to know what it turned out to be.

  6. #6
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    I'm curious too! Something has to be building and holding pressure in the line.

  7. #7
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    I haven't had chance to work on it yet - I have 2 bikes apart at the moment, I need to get one buttoned up before I start on the RX.

    I do believe Cooter to be correct, I think the bleed port is blocked; there is no free play at all at the lever, the pin the lever operates against has no movement at all, it is rock hard. Since it operates on the same principle as a brake master cylinder I checked those on my other bikes and they all have a small but distinct play, they can be compressed by finger pressure at least a mm or 2. I will confirm soon as I can work on it.

    On a related note, the OEM rebuild kit is $112 (!), replacement OEM lever is $98, and a complete clutch master cylinder (including lever & remote reservoir) is $190. I got a Nissan OEM rebuild kit from Carpimoto.it for $20 - with $24 shipping...
    Last edited by ACM; 07-28-2022 at 07:29 PM. Reason: I cannae spell dammit :)

  8. #8
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    I hope I'm right too. It's a lot easier to put a piece of wire in a little hole than buy all that!

  9. #9
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    I believe the clutch is the same 3/4" (19mm) radial mc that the brake uses. I got a rebuild kit for a 2005-2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000, pn 59600-29820. They vary in price, the one I got was NOS Suzuki-branded kit for $24 on eBay, fit the brake mc perfectly.

    My clutch does have a tiny amount of travel before I can feel the resistance of the fluid pressure.

    -EDIT-
    Here's one that's ~$25 with $16 shipping
    https://www.carpimoto.com/en-US/4617...r-cylinder.htm
    Last edited by LeesEBR; 08-04-2022 at 05:09 PM.

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