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Thread: 1190sx reliability

  1. #1
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    1190sx reliability

    Hello,

    I have just got a sweet deal on a 2014 SX here in Sweden. It is one of two SX that we have here and i can buy it for 7000USD. Thats a good deal and they are around 10 000USD on the European market. It has around 20000KM on it and needs a valve adjustment.

    I am a bit nervous as i have been told that the early SX engines tend to blow. The other SX thats in country had its front cylinder go out so now he has an 1125 motor in it.

    A have wanted an EBR for years but my options has always been limited due to the fact that there is none to get.

    Should i get it? :) Give me inputs.

  2. #2
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes, you should get it. Stay away from the 'Facebook Experts' and ask questions from the Real Experts (NCCR).

    What are you going to doing with it? Race? Track days? Street? The few people with the very rare engine problems are typically modified and racing, or abusing them terribly. You can ride it hard with no issues, it's lugging them and lack of maintenance on a high strung "Full Race Engine" (Erik's quote) that cause issues.

    Keep the chain slack within spec (25-30mm), don't lug the engine (5-6k rpm minimum cruise), you'll need to rotate the engine for the valve adjust but it's MUCH easier than it sounds.

    Check for the dash/ECM update from EBR, get a 43-44 tooth rear sprocket for a more realistic riding comfort, Oberon clutch slave for HALF the clutch lever pull, quickshifter (plug n play) for pure enjoyment and ride it a ton:)

  3. #3
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    this is one of the things you will regret NOT doing/getting in your life later on

    also I try to cruise above 3.5-4k rpm. cooter likes 5-6k YMMV. definitely better lower gears than higher for engine happiness and chain life though

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Yes, you should get it. Stay away from the 'Facebook Experts' and ask questions from the Real Experts (NCCR).

    What are you going to doing with it? Race? Track days? Street? The few people with the very rare engine problems are typically modified and racing, or abusing them terribly. You can ride it hard with no issues, it's lugging them and lack of maintenance on a high strung "Full Race Engine" (Erik's quote) that cause issues.

    Keep the chain slack within spec (25-30mm), don't lug the engine (5-6k rpm minimum cruise), you'll need to rotate the engine for the valve adjust but it's MUCH easier than it sounds.

    Check for the dash/ECM update from EBR, get a 43-44 tooth rear sprocket for a more realistic riding comfort, Oberon clutch slave for HALF the clutch lever pull, quickshifter (plug n play) for pure enjoyment and ride it a ton:)
    This is a street only bike and i ride pretty hard but not redline Hard. I have a 2018 rsv4 as a racebike so this is only a complement for the road.

  5. #5
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    Get it! There's not a problem that can't be remedied. Make sure you read multiple sources for advice, and make sure you do every single bit of basic / preventative maintenance. I will also agree with the cruising rpm range advice mentioned here: Run it hot. 5000 rpms seems to be the magic number, but the higher the rpm the smoother it gets. I wish you the best with your purchase!

  6. #6
    EBRforum Expert EBRRider's Avatar
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    Get that SX , You will love it as I do mine .

    strom_0050 by Jack Joseph, on Flickr

  7. #7
    EBRforum Expert EBRRider's Avatar
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    His is a old list of mods

    Aftermarket parts lists

    i have been looking around for parts suppliers and i thought it would be a good idea for everyone to get together and post up any manufactures/suppliers they can think of that currently sells EBR parts

    -Hotbodies racing= race body work
    -R@G= frame sliders, grills for coolers, small tidbits
    -5-0dro= swing arm and fork protection
    -Driven racing= spools
    -Dean Adams= EBR exhaust/ special tools/ Buell exhaust
    -APH= exhaust
    -IDSPD= ECM (Dean Adams-APH-HMF-Muffler delete-programmable)
    -STITCH WILSON =seats stitch@customcycleseats.com
    -Diesel moto= rotors
    -Vortex= aluminum sprockets part #Vortex-821-43(43 tooth) and pegs
    -Amsoil= you know why
    -HMF= exhaust
    -EBC= brake pads
    -HIFLO= oil filters
    -Knight Design= lower foot pegs
    -AF1= store front for parts
    -Bestem USA= carbon body work
    -ABM=Clutch levers and brake levers
    -GB Racing= crash protection for engine cases
    -Motion Pro= throttle set up and cables
    -Wilbers= shocks
    -Showa= shocks
    -PowerBronze= seat cowl, tire hugger
    -Twisted Design= tidy tail kit
    -ASV= levers
    -quickshifter (no manufacture)= FUN
    -T-Rex= frame sliders/ case protection
    -JT Sprocket=JT Sprockets JTR1490.43 - steel
    -wave rotor=BL02FID
    -Ohlins- steering damper(model#SD000) bushing kit# a14010200ux0631
    -K&N= oil filter part # KN-564
    -Screensforbikes.com= 1190rx wind screens tall and short.
    -keyless gas cap= post 38 on this thread for link (EBRRider)
    -Updated chain slider= part #G0012.1B7A
    -Barnett= clutch springs frictions and steels... look up Buell 1125 parts
    -NCCR= online store front for parts. Has OEM and aftermarket parts
    -Spark plug= NGK Spark Plug CR9EKB
    -metal mesh oil filter=http://kandpengineering.com/product-catalog/s27/
    - Supersprox= sprocket kits
    -BuellTooth= quick shifter and dongle
    -St Paul harley= random parts EBR and Buell


    • CRG - RC2 Brake and Clutch levers for 2005 zx6r Part # 2RN-511-T-B
    • Techspec - Tank Pads
    • Liquid Performance eBay page - LAP's online discount part sales
    • Öhlins - BU-888 is the 1125/RS rear shock, a drop-in part to the 1190RX/SX, a note though: these were all built in 2011 or earlier. If you purchase one, you'll have to have it serviced/rebuilt before you fit it to your bike or the seals will fail very quickly.
    • Woodcraft - replacement/upgraded clip ons, replacement solid foot pegs, hand guards
    • Shorai - Makers of the battery, battery cable, battery charger
    • McMaster-Carr for Washers and O-Rings
    • M18 Oil Drain Plug LH Washer - Equivalent to EBCF0092.1B6 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#97725a860/=1bnm6de
    • M12 Oil Drain Plug RH Washer - Equivalent to EBCF0091.1B6 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#97725a250/=1bnm6vb
    • Oil Filter Cover O-Ring - Equivalent to EBCF0003.1B6 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#9452k147/=1bnm7hx




    gdisaac07 hooked this list up... i will stay in touch with him for links and such.. thanks bud for the clean up


    • OEM Parts Supply
      EBR Parts Supply - http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/
      • Updated chain slider (Part # G0012.1B7A)


      LAP eBay page, Liquid Performance - https://www.ebay.com/sch/liquid_performance/
      Aftermarket Dealers
      AF1 (Our Forum Sponsor) -
      NCCR (Official European EBR parts supplier, plus other aftermarket parts) -
      St. Paul Harley Davidson - https://sphdonline.com/
      Bodywork
      Bestem USA


      • Carbon fiber replacement parts -


      Hotbodies Racing




      PowerBronze


      • Seat cowl and tire hugger -


      Screensforbikes.com


      • 1190RX windscreen, short and tall -


      Slingshot Racing




      Twisted Designs


      • Tail Tidy Kit -


      Seat
      Stitch Wilson




      Rider InterfaceABM


      • Clutch Lever (Part # ) -
      • Brake Lever (Part # ) -


      ASV


      • Clutch Lever (Part # ) -
      • Brake Lever (Part # ) -


      CRG


      • Clutch Lever (RC2 for 2008 Kawasaki ZX-14, Part # , Shorty and other colors available too) -
      • Brake Lever (RC2 for 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R, Part # 2RN-511-T-B, Shorty and other colors available too) -


      Knight Design


      • Pegs


      Motion Pro


      • Adjustable throttle (Rev 2.1 Throttle tube, Part # ) -


      Vortex


      • Pegs -


      Woodcraft


      • Clip ons/bars (Part # ) -
      • Solid foot pegs (Part # ) -
      • Hand guards(Part # ) -


      Protection
      5-0Dro


      • Swingarm and fork protection -


      GB Racing


      • Engine Case Protection -


      R&G


      • Frame sliders, cooler grills, assorted tidbits -


      T-Rex


      • Frame sliders, engine sliders, axle slider


      Techspec


      • Tank Pads (Part # ) -


      Exhaust
      APH


      • Exhaust -


      Dean Adams


      • Round can or oval can exhaust, including ECU (either the one with the map exclusively for the type you buy, or a tunable ECU) -
      • Various other tools -


      HMF


      • Exhaust -


      Engine
      Barnett


      • Clutch springs (Part # , required if you're using a new exhausting and putting down more power than stock) -
      • Clutch packs (Part # , this is the 1125 carbon fiber clutch pack) -


      L.A. Sleeve


      • Upgraded cylinder sleeves


      NGK


      • Spark Plug (Part # CR9EKB) -


      Electronics
      BUELLTooth


      • Quickshifter, regular shift pattern -
      • Quickshifter, GP shift pattern -


      IDS


      • Original designer of the ECU, sells ECU's with other tunes, plus a user-tunable one -


      Shorai


      • OEM Lithium Battery (Part # LFX21A7-BS17) -
      • Battery Charger (Part # SHO-BMS01) -
      • Battery Cable (Part # ) -



      Woodcraft


      • Ignition bypass (Part # ) -


      Sprockets
      JT Sprocket


      • Steel, 43 tooth, Part # JTR1490.43 -
      • Steel, 44 tooth, Part # JTR1490.44 -


      Supersprox


      • Steel/Aluminum engineered sprockets -


      Vortex


      • Aluminum, 43 tooth, Part # Vortex-821-43 -
      • Aluminum, 44 tooth, Part # Vortex-821-44 -


      Suspension
      Öhlins


      • Front Fork Cartridge Kit (Call Seacoast Sport Cycle for NIX30 kit, installed for $1,750 + Shipping) -
      • Rear Shock (Part # BU-888 is the 1125/RS rear shock, a drop-in part to the 1190RX/SX. A note though: these were all built in 2011 or earlier. If you purchase one, you'll have to have it serviced/rebuilt before you fit it to your bike or the seals may fail very quickly) -
      • Steering Damper (Part # SD000, requires bushing kit Part # A14010200UX0631) -


      Showa


      • Stock Big Piston Forks and Shock -
      • Race Shock -


      Wilbers


      • Race Shock -


      Brakes
      Diesel Moto


      • Front Rotor -


      EBC


      • Brake Pads -


      SBS


      • Dual Sinter Front Brake Pads (Part # 856DS) -


      Wave Rotor


      • Front Rotor, Part # BL02FID


      Fluids and Filters
      YOU MUST USE 10W-40 SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL IF YOU PLAN ON RIDING AT ANY TIME WHEN IT IS LESS THAN 40 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. OTHERWISE, USE 20W-50 SYNTHETIC.
      AMSOIL (EBR recommends that you use AMSOIL)


      • 10W-40 Oil (Part # MCF+QT-EA) -
      • 20W-50 Oil (Part # MCVQT-EA) -


      HIFLO


      • Oil Filter (Part # ) -


      K&N


      • Oil Filter (Part # KN-564) -


      K&P Engineering




      McMaster-Carr




      Mobil 1


      • 10W-40 Oil -
      • 20W-50 Oil -


      Royal Purple


      • 10W-40 Oil -
      • 20W-50 Oil -


      Spools/Stands/Restraints
      Driven Racing


      • Spools -


      Pit Bull


      • Spools (6mm, Delrin only) -
      • Rear pit stand (Wide stand) -
      • Front pit headlift stand (Pin #1) -
      • Trailer Restraint System (Part # ) -




  8. #8
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    PowerBronze also makes the front shield, stock or raised, tinted or clear.

    Dynojet 4-104 is the quickshifter, (linear push sensor) and is the same as a 1125. Need some slight mods (drill the sifter lever) and 2014 dash/ECMs need to be updated.

    EBR and Buelltooth also offers a quickshifter, both regular and GP

    Please note the T-rex rear axle sliders are wider and lower than the foot pegs.
    ​ Mine hit the ground at the edge of the tire and before the peg hits. Bad day.

  9. #9
    EBRforum ProvNov Rb70383's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    PowerBronze also makes the front shield, stock or raised, tinted or clear.

    Dynojet 4-104 is the quickshifter, (linear push sensor) and is the same as a 1125. Need some slight mods (drill the sifter lever) and 2014 dash/ECMs need to be updated.

    EBR and Buelltooth also offers a quickshifter, both regular and GP

    Please note the T-rex rear axle sliders are wider and lower than the foot pegs.
    ​ Mine hit the ground at the edge of the tire and before the peg hits. Bad day.
    ?? I have those. Never thought about that.

  10. #10
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    If you sight down the sheet of wood thats touching the slider, it's not even touching the peg, and note how much tire tread it's still on too! .

    I felt it grind the pavement on turn 12 at Buttonwillow. It's an uncambered, 80mph, 90* left hander on to the straight, that low-sided me into the dirt.

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