Things worked out my bike was barely under warranty EBR and Liquid Asset Partners helped me out by sending me a 0 mile crated engine. "Ghost" is back together and I've been riding her easy daily.
Now as to the failure: I purchased the bike with 372 miles on it. I did the oil change at 620 miles. I caught the oil in an empty catch pan and set it aside. When the failure happened, I had to clean and arrange my garage to accommodate disassembly which means I dumped that catch pan into a 1.6 gallon jug. The catch pan,which had only the EBR 620 mile oil and maybe some fork oil from my zx10r nearly filled that jug, conservatively I'd say 4.5 quarts.
Someone over filled the oil And I think the reason for that may be found in the manual itself. I know there is a thread here about checking the oil.
If you read it, the "cold engine check" should be done with the engine warm. All of the steps of the cold engine check lead you to do the hot engine check. I will go so far as to say if you are filling your oil on the side stand to near the top, or even the middle of the sight glass, you are running the risk of damaging your baby. I don't know much about dry sump motors, but from what I've read on the intert00bs over filling them is bad, and the only way to get an accurate reading is with a hot oil check.
I think overfilling the oil is a far more likely cause of rod failure than thin cylinder walls. I am no expert. I am new to EBR. I'm learning and I'm doing my damnest to do right by this bike.
Currently my bike has about 230 miles on the engine. After I got the bike back together, I ran the engine warm, added a quart of oil, raising the level to about 1/4 the way up the sight glass. I rode around a bit and found myself obessing over the sight glass. I re-read the section on checking the oil. I performed each step to the letter. I found that the oil level was way too high on the hot check and I had to drain some out.
Try it, follow the instructions to the letter and see where your oil level is on the hot check.
Last edited by MrSix; 04-04-2018 at 04:13 PM.
That’s great news that they helped out.. that would suck to be left in the dark. Like most ebr issues lol
Put in 3.3 quarts, per the manual, and call it good. Some people put in 3.5 quarts who race. Either way, immediately warm it and do a hot oil level check on the sight glass, then mark the full level with something that won't rub off. Then you'll always know where full is and there won't be an issue.
What are you doing with the old engine?
lol yeah... when I first posted about the failure on FB hooo boy did I get hit with gulls. My plan is to tear it down, assess the damage and rebuild. I'd thought about doing the LASLEEVE Resleeve thing but I'm not sure how that works given these cylinders aren't sleeved as I understand sleeveing. the jug, jacket and cylinder are all aluminum and the cylinder wall has a coating
of NI SI C (Nickle Silicon Carbon) plated on. When I think sleeving, I think of a machine shop pressing out old cylinders and then pressing in new ones. I'd have to talk to them
It's a chance to learn a lot about these engines. That's worth more than the money I'd get for parts.
I'd like to know for sure that you actually have the correct ecm for the exhaust. Look on the display and scroll through until you find the firmware version. Post a pic of it to satisfy my curiosity. I had someone messaging me the other day about a driveability problem, turns out it had the incorrect calibration loaded on a programmable ecm and the bike would die after idling for about 30 seconds. Nobody knew why until I asked that same question, what cal does it have on the ecm?