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Thread: Rip 1190sx

  1. #1
    EBRforum ProvNov MrSix's Avatar
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    Rip 1190sx

    After 1196.8 miles the front cylinder rod punched the starter at about 9000 in second... about 70 MPH and a 100ft skid. I've heard everything from "CASTROL BAD" to "thin cylinder walls" to "looks like you're running rich that could totally cause a catastrophic failure."

    My money is on thin cylinder walls. I'd barely ridden the thing. I bought it used with 372 miles on it did the service at 620. I mean.. I'd ride it shifts at 10K a few rev limiter events and missed shifts. I have a zx10r at 50,000 miles and a honda 919 at 40,000 I don't miss a service and I am particular about maintenance.

    I know a lot of guys here run tips and a tips tuned ecu. That was my configuration. Again I don't see the tune causing a a bottom end failure like this. I'm exploring options for repairing the engine. Is it possilbe to bore the jugs and and use thicker sleeves?

    Since we're all taking guesses, I'm in the "thin cylinder walls" camp.
    No pics mine are too big and I don't have a way to edit at the moment.

    2016 EBR 1190 SX
    Last edited by MrSix; 03-03-2018 at 06:33 PM.

  2. #2
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Ya, it's totally not your fault at all. Must be a design flaw. Cheap POS. A Japanese bike is way better.


    I'm no EBR engineer, but maybe 372 miles is too soon for full throttle, bouncing off the rev-limiter and not shifting until red-line?



    In the meantime, use some of the $10,000 off MSRP you saved and get busy!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-EBR-1190...dZsGTy&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by Cooter; 03-03-2018 at 08:20 PM.

  3. #3
    EBRforum ProvNov MrSix's Avatar
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    followed the break in to the letter. I missed a shift twice and het rev limiter... mostlyb shifted before 7k tried to very cruisingb rpms changed oil at 620 and then I started to get it more.... but still.. it's winter here so it's kinda hard to really 'get after it" Also I'm not the only one that has experienced this issue, and I bet there will be more I've rebuilt engines. I know how to break them in.... and how to break them... apparently....
    Last edited by MrSix; 03-03-2018 at 09:08 PM.

  4. #4
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Since you're an experienced mechanic, that's good, it will help you re-build your engine quickly by yourself. IMHO a replacement engine (like the link I gave you) would be an easier option, but you know best. Waiting until after your very first oil change at just 620 miles to "get after it" was a smart move. I hope the engineers take note at the problems they designed into this bike.

    Winter in Kansas? Of course you are running 10w-30 Amsoil right?

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/82...page=83#manual

    Making the mistake of putting super thick 20w-50 weight oil in it and riding in any temps below 40* ambient could be catastrophic.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm sure you know that. Just checking.

  5. #5
    EBRforum ProvNov MrSix's Avatar
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    Castrol I don't believe in the brand hype. I have mechanical experience. I am no professional. I just prefer to do my own work. I'm still deciding what to do. yeah swapping engines is easy.. but I don't trust this engine now. Given that I've hear similar stores from like 5 people. "Oh your front rod donkey punched the starter off the case? WELCOME TO EBR. Care to part out?" I want to see if it's possible to bore the jugs and sleeve them with some thing with more metal. I've heard tha, given the compression, titanium might be a better choice for rods. but I have no idea if those are available or if they aren't what my next steps would be. So we'll see. It's not like me to give up.
    Last edited by MrSix; 03-03-2018 at 11:40 PM.

  6. #6
    EBRforum ProvNov gdisaac07's Avatar
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    This certainly isn’t something that I’ve heard of except on race motors. If you’re at WOT on a race track, pushing more HP than stock, and doing it without oil changes every few hours, then I could see the type of issue you described occurring. However, under normal operation, this shouldn’t occur.

    A ton of people on here have raced the bike or modified it. We’re happy to help you out. If you’d like meaningful help, there are a few things you should provide:

    - Accurate, honest descriptions of how you’re riding the bike. Maybe your Kawasaki needs to be be ridden one way and the EBR another.
    - Pictures of the damage
    - Complete list of modifications to the motorcycle
    - Complete list of lubricants and processes you used to change them
    - Maintenance completed (detailed list)

    Take your time to compile this information and come back when you’ve done it. It’ll provide a great place for us to give you advice.

    As a friendly hint, it’s probably in poor taste to come through a forum dedicated to people who love these bikes and lead off with ****ting all over them. More tact will go a long way to getting help. Be factual and detailed and ask your question. If someone came through and shat on your favorite car brand, then asked for help, how would you feel? Keep that in mind.
    2017 EBR 1190SX
    2009 Buell XB12scg

  7. #7
    EBRforum ProvNov MrSix's Avatar
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    Completely honest description of my riding style with the EBR:
    First off let me say that I was super jazzed about getting this bike. A good friend of my who is in this forum has had two EBRs one met with and unfortunate lowside, he'd put about 10,000 miles on it before the wreck. The second, we went an picked up in WI and stopped by the EBR factory while we were there last summer. With the miles stacking up on both my other bikes and all of my motorcycling experience with I-4 engines I wanted to try something different. I really liked the idea of supporting EBR albeit too late.
    I found this bike, a 2016 1190SX used with 372 miles. I downloaded the manuals and contacted EBRtech for exploded diagrams because I knew I'd be working on it myself. I don't let other people spin wrenches on my bike period. I research, take advice from several sources and decide on a course of action that makes the most sense to me. My friend with the EBR being the exception here. He's helped me rebuild forks for my ZX10R and he showed me around my EBR after we retrieved it from Big Bend WI a few weeks back.

    The first ride I took on it was in sleet, through the parking lot to the truck we were hauling it in. The traction control was set at like... 10.
    I got it home and it was pretty cold 20ish degrees... and I took it for a ride to the gas station and back. My other bikes have reversed shift pattern so I had to think about my shifting, it wasn't exactly in the muscle memory so there were a few times where I downshfited where I should have up shifted.

    The weather was still cold but I'd ride it back and forth to work on days that were around 25-40 degrees. I kept the bike below 7-8k RPMs shifting while I was below the 620 service mark. I'd cruise at 5 or 6 4 grand seemed "luggy" to me so I avoided it. Speaking of lugging There were a few start offs in second, and getting used to a different clutch where the RPMS were a bit lower than they should have been. There was one ride with friends that was more aggressive, still shifting at 7 or 8 grand but riding fast, 80 -120 MPH no wheelies no red line no WOT.

    The day came for the first maintenance. I've looked over the manual which states 3.2 QT should be added when changing the oil and filter.
    My friend came over to hang out while I did this, He also brought an ECU that was tuned for exhaust tips. I took the bike for a short ride to warm up the oil and returned to my garage. I drained the oil from the primary drain on the side stand and removed the filter. I drained the oil from the clutch side, tipping the bike to the right until it was drained. I replaced the filter with a K&N filter and I used castrol 20w-50 4T synthetic. After poruing in 3 QTs I started the bike and let it run until the low oil light went off. Then I shut it down and we added more. My friend watched the oil level, we got it close to the top...for a total of 3.5 QT added. I don't ride a lot in cold weather. My bike is garage kept, heated when I'm in it, and i always let the engine warm up before putting it in gear and going.

    Beyond that I am gentle with my bike for other reasons: I don't know how the engine makes power. I am unfamiliar with it. It's best that I take it easy until I know it. Cold sandy roads, cold tires. I'm not taking a chance with a new bike. I made that mistake in the past, I'll be damned if I do it again.

    After changing the oil my friend was showing me around the bike, how to remove the front wheel, and the air box cover.. we took off the air box cover, and then unlatched the air box top, we checked the air filter, and I decided to remove the compression solenoid, and install his ECU that is tuned for exhaust tips.

    The weather has been icy so the bike was parked for a week or so, the first nice day we had I took it out on some nice county roads with a friend and we got after it. shifting at 9 or 10 grand rev matching shifting, I had it up to 137 in 5th or sixth.but with out a windscreen it was ****ing brutal. My arms were cramping. I've only seen sixth gear once or twice.and WOT once. I'm generally in second on surface streets and third or fourth cruising on the highway.

    I'd commute, even on cold days, but those commutes were gentle. On nice days I'd ride with some hooligan friends... they wheelie a lot and give me **** because I don't. I get **** because I'm taking it easy on my bike. Because honestly I like things to last, and I know, that's up to me.

    Modifications to the motorcycle:
    exhaust tips with ECU tuned for tips
    compression solenoid delete.

    Oil used: Castrol 4t synthetic 20w-50
    Filter used: K&N
    Coolant used to top off: Peak Global premixed
    I was attempting to post for my computer but I'm not able to reach the site I am however able to reach it on my phone when I'm not connected to my wireless.
    I would post pictures but I'm unable to find the upload on the mobile site. I will upload pictures as soon as whatever firewall or issues with the site have been resolved

  8. #8
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    I saw this post in FB.
    A severe bummer.
    Does anyone know, not speculate, if the jugs are the same as the 1125?
    Oh, if we wanted a Jap bike we would have a soulless bike. That **** doesn’t help.
    Good luck man.

  9. #9
    EBRforum ProvNov MrSix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAC View Post
    I saw this post in FB.
    A severe bummer.
    Does anyone know, not speculate, if the jugs are the same as the 1125?
    Oh, if we wanted a Jap bike we would have a soulless bike. That **** doesn’t help.
    Good luck man.
    Lol I love my souless bikes. And I'll bring this one back one way or another. Whether its my fault, the PO, or design flaw, doesn't matter. I'll fix it. I'll know more on Monday. I'll post back with my results at the end of this adventure.
    Thanks for the well wishes and my apologies to those with ruffled feathers.

  10. #10
    EBRforum Expert EBRRider's Avatar
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    Wish you the best , We are all interested in What caused your motor to blow, so that we can avoid at all cost, on our no warranty bikes. Whether its your fault, the PO, or design flaw.

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