Two Things - Fork Seals / Random Vibration

Hey guys, hopefully someone here can help me out with two issues.

Issue #1: I can not find any information regarding what fork seal gasket to purchase for the RX. Looked everywhere and can't seem to find the replacement part. I'm leaking oil on the left fork and would like to replace it. Additionally, is there a special tool needed to open the fork, or is it strait forward. Any information on this would be amazing.

Issue #2: The bike runs differently on a day to day basis. In terms of vibration and power. Some days she runs smoothly and has very consistent power delivery. Some days she runs rough and the vibration is almost unbearable. I'm using the same fuel, and I've cleaned the air filter with no change. And it changes day to day with no obvious sign of cause. The outside temperature doesn't make a difference either. If anyone has a similar issue and knows of a solution that would be great. Notes: I have the upgraded software in the TFT and an IDE ECM with the race tips. It did this before with the secondary as well.

Hey Bottle -

I'm also in SoCal (San Gabriel Valley).
Don't know about the fork seal (not a gasket). But any quality fork/suspension rebuilder should be able to do the work for you.

On the running. Yea, I drive mine daily, 85+ miles a day (coming up on 23,000 miles). It occasionally runs different day to day. On one hand, you get used to it. On the other hand, the more miles on mine, the more consistent it seems to run. I bought the adjustable IDS ECM and removed the upper (secondary) muffler also. Made my own exh. tips.
that also helped a lot of things. More power, better drivability, more fun in general.

Have you checked to see if there are any "faults" noted. The dash cluster will note new and/or old faults.
Go around and make sure all of your sensors are fully plugged in. Make sure you didn't hurt the air temp sensor (sensor or plug) while removing the air filter. Mine doesn't like overly hot days and with Buell's "forgetfulness" about putting a water temp gage in the dash, we have no idea about how hot the engine is running. In any case, it runs a little different in Calif's 95+ degree days, splitting lanes on our wonderful freeways...but it gets me home fine.
Turn the traction control "off". I know my bike didn't like running restricted at all. Made a big difference.

Interesting thing... A couple months back, my regulator died, allowed the magneto to run a maximum voltage into the bikes system, taking out the battery and overheating one fan to destruction and the front (aftermarket) turn indicator bulbs. Didn't seem to hurt the ECM or anything else. After replacing the regulator, fan, indicator bulbs and battery, it seems to run much more predicable on a day to day basis. Don't ask me...I don't know...

Mike

Bottle -

Forgot to mention. Do a throttle /ECM calibration..."hot". See what happens. They do run different doing it hot vs. cold.

Ignition on, open the throttle fully. hold for the count of three, close the throttle for the count of three.
Do this three times.

See what happens.

Mike

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike

Hey Bottle -

I'm also in SoCal (San Gabriel Valley).
Don't know about the fork seal (not a gasket). But any quality fork/suspension rebuilder should be able to do the work for you.

On the running. Yea, I drive mine daily, 85+ miles a day (coming up on 23,000 miles). It occasionally runs different day to day. On one hand, you get used to it. On the other hand, the more miles on mine, the more consistent it seems to run. I bought the adjustable IDS ECM and removed the upper (secondary) muffler also. Made my own exh. tips.
that also helped a lot of things. More power, better drivability, more fun in general.

Have you checked to see if there are any "faults" noted. The dash cluster will note new and/or old faults.
Go around and make sure all of your sensors are fully plugged in. Make sure you didn't hurt the air temp sensor (sensor or plug) while removing the air filter. Mine doesn't like overly hot days and with Buell's "forgetfulness" about putting a water temp gage in the dash, we have no idea about how hot the engine is running. In any case, it runs a little different in Calif's 95+ degree days, splitting lanes on our wonderful freeways...but it gets me home fine.
Turn the traction control "off". I know my bike didn't like running restricted at all. Made a big difference.

Interesting thing... A couple months back, my regulator died, allowed the magneto to run a maximum voltage into the bikes system, taking out the battery and overheating one fan to destruction and the front (aftermarket) turn indicator bulbs. Didn't seem to hurt the ECM or anything else. After replacing the regulator, fan, indicator bulbs and battery, it seems to run much more predicable on a day to day basis. Don't ask me...I don't know...

Mike

---

Mike,

You know what I mean, fork seal haha. I got the IDS ECM set up for the secondary delete. And made my own stainless tips as well. It's absolutely better than how it was before, but it still bothers me some.

Currently no faults in the history once I got the new TFT (old one had a capacitor fall off the board and threw codes all the time). I've done the re-calibration a few times as well as turning the traction on and off and it runs smooth, then back to rough, then back to smooth. I'll pull the fairings tomorrow and check all of the sensor connections.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike

Bottle -

Forgot to mention. Do a throttle /ECM calibration..."hot". See what happens. They do run different doing it hot vs. cold.

Ignition on, open the throttle fully. hold for the count of three, close the throttle for the count of three.
Do this three times.

See what happens.

Mike

---

I'll try this again, but it doesn't seem to matter too much. Any suggestion on someone to do the fork seals in the Valley?

Lastly. I fist bumped a guy on an RX on the 210 EB near Pasadena a few weeks back. Was this you? haha.

Thanks again Mike.

Check to make sure your throttle body mounting boots are tight. It is my understanding that they have came loose on more than one occasion causing poor running.

***UPDATE***

All right guys. Opened up the air box and took a look at the throttle bodies. The rear throttle body assembly was sitting on top of it's intake neck. The stainless clamps that hold the throttle body to the intake neck were lose and the parts completely separated. After re-attaching and clamping down the throttle body, things seem to be working much better. After re-calibrating, the bike starts quickly now and idles smoother. We're getting a little rain this morning in LA, so I haven't been able to test ride. But once I do, I'll report back.

Attachment 1215

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bottlelot

***UPDATE***

All right guys. Opened up the air box and took a look at the throttle bodies. The rear throttle body assembly was sitting on top of it's intake neck. The stainless clamps that hold the throttle body to the intake neck were lose and the parts completely separated. After re-attaching and clamping down the throttle body, things seem to be working much better. After re-calibrating, the bike starts quickly now and idles smoother. We're getting a little rain this morning in LA, so I haven't been able to test ride. But once I do, I'll report back.

Attachment 1215

---

Your on to it , good diagnosis ! Ive had my fork seals done and a look inside by a really good suspension guy . you have bottom out at 13mm , a tad more oil and one grade higher in viscosity will beef up and keep full adjustability . He said that the forks are generally very good but because all the adjusters are in the top part of the fork (where all the foaming can be when really worked ), they are somewhat limited. I'm only quoting , and i have already had seal problems , but right hand side and usually caused by rotor and pad debris.

@Betterbuell , As for my fork seals. I took them to my guy here in the Valley who was able to clean them out and re-seat them without taking the forks apart. He used one of those plastic shim deals to do it. Already a couple miles in and the forks are dry. Thanks for the info about the fluid type. I'll give that a shot when I have them re-done eventually.

Yea the seal mate tool can be a life saver. https://www.amazon.com/MOTION-PRO-Se.../dp/B0039LDF4A

That being said I replaced mine with some SKF seals because that tool didn't work for me. The showa BPF are a little more tricky to do and require more tools than most forks. After taking it all apart all it was something balled up under the seal lip. Apparently i didnt work the seal mate enough.