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Well, as I slacked off a bit last year due to a tibia fracture, I'm just now getting to my 6000 miles, and you know what that means. Time to do valves.
Who here has done it yourself? I'm not willing to pay my local EBR dealership's subpar service department a mint to do it, and from what I've seen so far, it seems pretty easy.
Parts, what do I need? Shims, gaskets, etc?
Procedure looks fairly simple; anyone have the specs?
Thanks!
Need to get this done for my April Dragon trip!
Haven't done it myself yet, waiting on the service manual. It was like 3.5 hours labor by my dealer. Planning to do it myself as well this time. I'm hoping the Service Manual hits soon as I'm quickly approaching valve check#2. I do know that the specs for tune up are printed a sticker on the side of the subframe. That's about it. So I'm also anxious to hear what you real mechanics types have done as well.
Piece of cake if you have done it on a 1125 before. I reused valve cover gasket and intake gasket (bottom of air box to throttle bodies). Plan on oil change at same time. Unbolt subframe and secure to side. Worst part is getting air box out/off. No real special tricks. The lower most air duct that feeds air filter does come out between forks. Very tight. Will drag between forks and scratches are possible
Haven't done an 1125 either, but that's on the list as well to do here soon.
So did you guys reuse all your gaskets?
From EBR:
Hello Ryan,
The valve cover gaskets are reusable, unless a gasket is damaged when the covers are removed.
Shim sizes are obviously dictated by what is found for lash when it is inspected. Every engine is different, so you just have to measure and install the correct shim size as required.
We would recommend that the airbox tub to cylinder head sealing rings are replaced when the valve lash check is performed.
Valve lash specs are:
Intake: 0.006”-0.007” (0.152-0.178mm)
Exhaust: 0.012”-0.013” (0.305-0.330mm)
Thank you,
EBR Customer Service
I haven't done an RX, but I've done my RS several times. It's quite easy if you have the tools and can pull the frame. I bought a shim kit from Hot Cams, but they are in .005 in increments and the EBR/Buells use .0025 in increments. I then filled in the gaps by buying V-Rod shims from my local HD dealer where they were in stock. They are the same shims. Be sure you know how to find TDC on both cylinders. You dont need the crank or cam locking tool if you are careful. Be sure to stuff rags into the timing chain chanels and spark plug hole. It's easy to drop a shim into the motor. Get long feeler gauges and a strong, hinged magnet wand. I find that some grease on a feeler guage to stick the shim to, makes it easier to get them in place. You'll need a micrometer to measure the shims that come out to determind what needs to go back in. I have $35 HFT digital that works fine. I always measure the new shims to be sure they are correct. I keep the shims that are worn because sometimes the are the correct size later. The shim proceedure is the same as the 1125R so once you get the frame off, you can use that manual.
So knocked the valves out.
All 4 on the front cylinder were slightly out of spec. The rear exhaust valves were out of spec as well.
I used this shim kit from the V-Rod/1125
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
All in, it wasn't that bad of an experience.
Tips:
Take the rear subframe off. Its easy enough and will really help you remove the rear valve cover and give you more room to work.
The front air duct is a pain in the ass. Have a friend or two lift up on the bars to take the weight off the suspension, it'll give you some more room to work trying to put it back in or take it out.
Grease on a Feeler Gauge is your friend for putting in shims . . .
1125 manual will really help you as well.
Honestly, I think this could be done from start to finish in 4-6 hours.
Did you need to buy new gaskets or if they are in good shape they're reusable?Quote:
Originally Posted by noone1569
I didn't think we could use the 1125/v-rod shime? Something about thickness.