Has anyone else tried to denoid their new 1190?
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Has anyone else tried to denoid their new 1190?
I sure did, took the plug of my 1125 and put it on the RX fit like a glove. I didnt really notice a difference, but thats probably because of the motion pro revolver throttle I installed LOL!!!!! The quick throttle action and 0 slack make a HUGE difference. I did however notice a slight hesitation @ WOT like something was holding the bike back B4 the Denoid, thats gone now.
While you don't drop any weight, you don't need the old simulator plug, just disconnect the cable. The computer will think it's still doing it's original job.
I also want to leave the plug in my 09 CR (for now), so I'll just be pulling the cable from its linkage location.
Mike
I did the same thing. My 1125 is waiting a new resistor plug....lol. I noticed the same things you did Ace! Do you know if there is a way to disengage the engine brake?
Brute -
No "disengaging" the engine brake... It's the way the engine is tuned.
The only way way to change that is to change the lower cells on fuel the map, and as of now, we don't seem to have control of that as there is on the old 1125 engines...
I've done that on both my 1125 CR and my XB12s to some extent. Some is better than none.
Mike
Im not a fan of the engine braking. Are the new engines prone to making a lil more noise and vibration at lower rpm than the 1125's?
Our Buddy Dean Adams is working on a solution for us...
Fingers crossed................
Needs to be a EBR clone though...ignition timing also needs to be altered.
Please advise us when a solution is available as I would love to tweak mine. These bikes have so much more in them than what we see in stock form. Im on board if any of my past experience can help dont hesitate to holler at me. Im a few hours away from Dean Adams but dont mind the trip to help collaborate on this.
So he's working on tweaking the racing ECU to modify the timing, the flow with the exhaust, and the devoid?
Today I tried to eliminate the solenoid.
Disconnect the plug - on the dashboard displayed icon of engine overheating. I had to connect the connector back ...
He took off wire of solenoid with the throttle. Passed so some 300 kilometers, no changes in the behavior of the motorcycle are not found.
Maybe it makes sense to completely remove the solenoid and an electric socket to put some resistance, so that the dashboard does not light icon engine overheating? What value should be at this resistor?
There is a resistor you can buy to replace the solenoid to trick the system to think all is normal.
It is the same plug used for the denoid on the Buell 1125. You can still get them from Harley. If you look in some of the Buell forums under denoid then you can find the resistor plug number and order it from Harley or wait to see if EBR comes back and starts selling parts and bikes again.
Its a standard 2 pin Deutsch 120 ohm automotive terminating resistor.
Deutsch Part Number DTM06-2S-P006
I found that part online. They also sell the 1125 part at American sports bike online.
yes sir.
Thanks!
Not a problem, glad I could help.
At a forum on HD I read, it is not enough just to remove a cable servo motor with the throttle. We still make the valve flap in itself has been opened and it somehow fixed (by rivets or wire)
Did I understand correctly?
Incidentally, the partnumber of this resistor - Y0248.1AM.
Correct, you need to secure both throttle body linkages together. I used a zip tie. You need to check this about once a year to make sure that it hasn't broken.
While I havent done it to my RX yet, I did do this to my 1125CR. Made a big (good) difference.
Mike
Today I inspected the throttle body and could not find this valve. Where is he located? Why strengthen the zip-tie?
As a result, I was limited to simply removing the cable from the servo motor drives the throttle body:
Attachment 488
Photography is not mine, it is taken from this forum.
Before (lower portion of pic, about half way to the left):
Attachment 484
After (no longer there):
Attachment 485
Sorry for big pics, but it seems they worked...
Thank you for the photos. I have made it easier - until I can buy the eliminator, I just disconnected the cable. This is enough?
Attachment 486
If I did, the engine became faster to respond to the gas handle.
Attachment 489
The throttle body linkages are linked together already and C clipped in. Where is the zip tie coming into play?
This is a question for me? If yes - I start the engine without airbox cover and watched, how works the mechanism of the throttle bodys. They operate together. What about the solenoid cable, without cable.
I do not understand - how to operate the solenoid. He covers the throttle valve below 4500 rpm? I do not understand why need zip-tie.
Dean Adams also viewed the construction of the solenoid:
http://ebrforum.com/showthread.php?1...full=1#post961
Photos of solenoid cable and the throttle body I have copied this post.
Interesting his opinion about the correctness of my actions for denoid.
@ zviadi, im using the OEM plug since the first km, for you it isnīt nessesary to order in the US.
In Germany it is on stock: http://shop.buell-parts.com/OEM-Widerstandsstecker-Solenoid-fuer-alle-Buell-1125er-Modelle
I have removed the solenoid completely and saved nearly 1,2kg.
Post #28 -
Just below picture center and slightly to the right.
The tab that's bent to the right overlapping another small tab.
As I recall (been a while on my 1125CR), leaving those two parts loose may provide an unexpected throttle flutter sequence when opened hard at higher rpm's.
Sitting still in the garage...you won't notice anything wrong. They move together just fine in that case.
That's...what is tied together.
Mike
Big thanx, Christian!
I wrote a letter yesterday morning, until there is no answer ...
Norbert wrote me reply. Thank you again for your help.
If you still have a problem getting the plug, I just ordered 3 of them, and will sell 2 of them at my cost plus postage. Thanks.
I removed the solenoid and zip tied the connection with the new resistor... I pulled the cable and everything out... Man that thing was heavy...
Please confirm that the connector that you place the resistor in is what you are supposed to zip tie... Nothing to do with the linkage cable?...
No not the elec cable you tie two mechanical parts together.
This used to be the best page but some of Mike's pix are not showing up. HTH
http://web.archive.org/web/201503201...31/490767.html
Z
A small observation after removal of the linkage of the solenoid from the throttle valve.
Starting cold engine - revs to about 4000 rpm and not falling. The air temperature is about 85F. Have a little wiggle gas handle - then the revs gradually drop to standart 2000 rpm.
Has anyone else observed this?
Zviadi, you might need to adjust the free play in your throttle cable. I like mine tight and crisp.
Plotter, the zip tie goes on the linkage on the throttle plate. I will try to post a pic for you as soon as I can. May break mine down this week for a service.
Attachment 511Plotter, I hope this helps clarify where the zip tie goes.
Hmmm... It's not like the throttle is asynchronous. Throtle cable and his free play also ok.
When the temperature was lower, this effect was not observed.
Photo is great. Finally I understood where secures the zip-tie. So not ride - I have no time.
Later disassemble airbox and will take a closer look.
I have a curious question, if you use a zip-tie to connect the 2 pieces and would have to inspect if every year, could you use some lock-wire instead? I would think that lock-wire would hold up much better and have a better holding force.
I have read a few mixed answers regarding whether the restore plug is required when removing the solenoid. I under stand that its the same one as the 1125, but it seems that some say its not required and will not throw a CEL.
Just curious.
btw, does anyone have a full write up on how to de-noid everything? I will be getting my SX next month and this will be on the list to take care of.
Thanks
Sx-Bueller. ....I inspect mine every time I service the air filter. So far have had no need to replace the zip tie. Wire would work but I thing the zip tie works well.
From what I understand it ensures the butterflies move together.