Attachment 754
Are you talking about the set of springs in the middle of sub assembly 1? I don't see a part# CG2501.1B6 in my parts manual.
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Attachment 754
Are you talking about the set of springs in the middle of sub assembly 1? I don't see a part# CG2501.1B6 in my parts manual.
It's the set of springs in the middle of that pic, main section #7. There's 6 "sets" altogether.
That makes me feel a lot better :). Maybe I'll be buying sprockets from you after all :). You wouldn't happen to have any pics of that cush drive?
Here's an exploded diagram from the RS parts manual. You can see how the sprocket doesn't get any drive from the motor, but instead the cush assembly has the drive splines and the sprocket is the driven "inverted" by those spokes on it. So, that's why this sprocket has the huge hole in the center, no drive splines, is absolutely HUGE because of the drive spokes that push into the cush, and has the idler bushing and needle bearing assembly to allow the drive shaft to pass through it.
It's ridiculously complicated. It's heavy. It's expensive. It's unnecessary.
Attachment 755
The front sprocket system is the same on the 1125 except for the belt pulley, the rubber cush bumpers are the same part, and a cheaper to buy. It was probably the easiest and least expensive way to design the system, being able to use existing parts keeps cost down, have not checked but I would not be surprised if the inner hub is not the same also.
That's good to know... Would give us some more metal to work with in figuring a way to get splines for a different sprocket on there...
Doosh do you have a better pic/diagram of the cush in the clutch? By the pic I posted I'm pretty sure I'm understanding how it looks/works but I'd like more info if you have any.
Based on the design though if we were trying to get a spline and sprocket to work there's maybe not enough material between the bottom diameter and the bore diameter...
Has anyone tried moving to the 1125 belt system?
So to go the other way like Mike suggested...
If we could find something like 697950041346 or 697950010212 from http://www.martinsprocket.com that might do the trick? Martin was just the first place I looked. There may be better parts to base this design from on both a quality and starting part point of view.
Attachment 756
We would first cut excess hub off, then spline the OD of the hub of this sprocket and bore+spline the center of the driven side of the current sprocket cush. Then bore the ID of this sprocket to the ID of the original sprocket. As far as I can tell this would also solve the issue of keeping the sprocket on the splines if they were on the other side yes?
Maybe not... What would keep the sprocket from working it's way toward the engine side? Looks like #9 in the diagram of the SX cush? That means one more cut to the sprocket.
Looking at the other side of the sprocket side of the cush though... It looks like we'd still run into available material issues.
Cost wise we would only do the machining of the driven side of the cush once, and we would order these from Martin as needed or in batches. We might even be able to get them to make a bunch and keep them in stock if we explain why we need them to and they have a soft spot :).
You are going to end up doing a lot of work to get a nominal advantage. I'm sticking by what I said earlier -- kill the cush, use an "ordinary" front sprocket.
I understand your point of view... I'm not even sure I disagree with you exactly.
Do you have any better pics/diagrams of the cush in the clutch?