DIY - How to "denoid" your 1190 (SX or RX)

I know it's been talked about, but I never came across a dedicated how to, so I made one today for anyone unfamiliar with the bike and wanting to denoid.

Step 1 - remove both airbox covers.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...pscwtvknwr.jpg

This is the solenoid (under the black metal rectangular bracket) that we will be removing:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...psiqjlhsoo.jpg

Step 2 - remove two torx bolts and unplug electrical connector. You should be holding it in your hand and thinking of how infinitely faster you're about to become without carrying this weight around with you.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...ps3ytimrxi.jpg

Now we have to deal with the other end of the solenoid:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...psgpegq9aj.jpg

Step 3 - unhook the cable:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...psk6wnfj3k.jpg

and undo the bolt holding it to the bike (sorry - didn't get a closeup pic of it). It comes off with a 10mm wrench:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...ps0zl60o1y.jpg

Now pull it out:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...pslxcjte6m.jpg

Couple notes:
If you run the original stock ecm, removing the solenoid will throw a code on the dash display. There is a resistor plug that you can snap into the ecetrical connector that was undone in step 2. If you run the race ecm, you will not need to run the plug. (Since I have the race ecm, I haven't purchased the plug and have no idea what the p/n for it is). This is the electrical connector in question:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...psevdmopyh.jpg

You may want to zip tie the electrical connector somewhere so that it cannot move in the way and interfere with any of the moving parts under the airbox. I chose to tuck it under the shoulder of the original bracket bolts, and made it hand tight. It's simple and out of the way. If I check it later and find the bolt to have loosened and the connector capable of getting in the way, I will zip tie it (I didn't have any zip ties with me at the moment).
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...psp7qhsshs.jpg

Last note - there is a lot of discussion about connecting the two throttle bodies together with a zip tie or something similar. From what I have read up until this point, I think that is unnecessary, but I am no expert. I am sure the comments that follow this thread will say enough about the matter on both sides.

Hope this helps!

well I'm eager to keep seeing this...

EDIT: I started between your posts, lol. Anyways, here's the resistor plug. I assume it's the same since it fits on 1125's.

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store...stor-plug.html

Part is the same. I have one on my 1190 RX, don't need it there though with the race ecm.

Now that EBR is offering to update the software of the original dash and ecm at no charge, I do not know if it will throw a code with the software update.

From what I was told, it was a visual change and one for the baro sensor not reading correctly.

Nice howto, thanks
Dean, want to sell me your resistor plug? Don't want to pay 14 s/h from EBR!

I haven't had the airbox off since late winter and have no plans to remove it at this time. Too busy building stuff.

no worries, thought I'd ask.

If anyone is interested in the solenoid resistor that needs to be installed they can be ordered right from the manufacturer's distributor for $4.24 plus UPS small pkg shipping.
Deutch Part No. DTM06-2S-P006
Ladd Distributing, Kettering, Oh. (800) 223-1236
(If you sweet talk her you can get a sample, free gratis.)