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Jbaker229
12-26-2015, 11:07 PM
I purchased an EBR 1190 earlier in the month, unfortunately the front brake was warped instantly.

My understanding is that there was a manufacturing defect in a batch of rotors that came out of the factory - my rotor looks similar to the one at the bottom of the page

http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?35986-EBR-Racing-Rotor/page2

Before I spend $550 on the rotor+mounting kit does anyone have any suggestions as an alternate? Also, if I install a new rotor should I also install pads (I only have 200 miles on the bike) - and if so what is the recommended pad on this forum? I have heard the EBC HH brake pads are not good and can exacerbate the problem.

Mike
12-27-2015, 12:22 AM
Wow...
Mine (very early model) has some small spots all the way around, which to me is unusual, but nothing like the picture you note. They can be seen, but not felt in the brake lever.

Yes, most definitely, I'd put new pads on a new rotor. ESPECIALLY... Since you had the disaster you had.
Break the new parts in properly, don't drag them, keep your fingers off of the brake lever while driving. On top is fine, just don't be unconsciously squeezing the lever while driving down the freeway (!?).
Keep the rotor clean. The factory brake pads seem to like to deposit some crap onto the rotor. No aftermarket pad I've used does that.

Mike

d_adams
12-27-2015, 06:30 AM
I just sold all my spare factory rotors. I had 8 of them. They're not in stock anywhere, so your only option now is an aftermarket rotor or a drilled one from an 1125/xb. Should be able to get them from HD still. There's only one place that still lists the mounting kit, it's about $100 for it. I also sold all the SBS race pads I had, but I think those are still available as well. They're not cheap though.

Jbaker229
12-27-2015, 06:39 PM
^Thanks guys. This is going to be one costly repair. Does anyone have any experience with front pads from Ferodo? I have been unable to find SBS pads for a reasonable price.

BTW this bike will be used for road use only - So I do not need the latest and greatest brake tech, I just need for the front brake to work.

mackja
12-27-2015, 06:52 PM
EBC and DP make good street pads, available on line, just google front brake pads for Buell 1125, These are available on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-EPFA454-4HH-Sintered/dp/B006B27VIU/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Buell%7C1178&Model=1125R%7C16250&Year=2009%7C2009&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle

This should take care of your rotor issue:

http://www.buellparts.net/content-product_info/product_id-2647/1125r_rotor_kit_front.html

Just found this, probably have to order from England.

https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/store/Motorcycle/vt/2/mk/199948be-e721-4455-9252-a651a5397f00/md/3bbcd842-4f8c-46f2-8c50-02dbd1e89012/vid/699037c3-3ef0-423e-a3f4-760ca315ea91#prettyPhoto

Jbaker229
12-29-2015, 11:52 PM
^Thanks

Does anyone know the torque specs for the brake caliper and axel?

Doosh
12-30-2015, 02:40 AM
Caliper bolts are 30ish ftlb, axle is 40

Jbaker229
12-30-2015, 10:09 AM
Thank you!

My Dad and I pulled the wheel off, sanded the rotor with 200 grit sand paper, sanded the pads with 40 grit sand paper - now the brake feels perfect. It is a cheap solution for anyone with the same problem.

Classax
12-30-2015, 03:42 PM
Caliper bolts are 30ish ftlb, axle is 40

Hey man what is you solution for safety wiring the caliper bolts, are you using a different bolt than stock?

mackja
12-30-2015, 04:42 PM
I use a threaded spacer with a longer bolt, Loctite and torque to 30-35 ftlbs drill holes and wire. spacer lets the head of the bolt stick out farther.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=10gv703

ADB
12-30-2015, 08:00 PM
Specifics on how we fixed the nasty rotor shake on my son's new EBR (and it was severe shake, right from the first mile):

Removed the rotor from the wheel - liberally doused with CRC Brakleen.
Laid rotor flat on a spare thick synthetic marble kitchen counter top we have in the garage and sanded both sides by hand with 320 grit sandpaper
Sanded all four pads on the same flat counter top with 80 grit
Reassembled using all the original "$100.00 hardware" (that should cost no more than $20.00 when you see they charge $6 for a $.50 spring washer- unbelievable)
Made sure all eight pistons in the caliper moved freely (two were stuck)
Torqued the rotor to the new, lower, 16-18 ft. lb. specs.

Nothing to lose, and all is now well - it stops like a regular motorcycle should.

Hope this helps anyone out there that is buying up the old 1190 inventory - especially the 8-10 bikes that Riders Hill just unloaded before they closed shop at Christmas.

noone1569
01-04-2016, 05:01 PM
Found cleaning out the caliper and cleaning each individual piston really helps with this as well!

I've probably done that 4x times in the 9k miles I have on the bike and it significantly improves the feel each time.