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View Full Version : 1190 RX denoid......



Brutus1190
05-29-2015, 06:24 PM
Has anyone else tried to denoid their new 1190?

Ace117
05-29-2015, 07:21 PM
I sure did, took the plug of my 1125 and put it on the RX fit like a glove. I didnt really notice a difference, but thats probably because of the motion pro revolver throttle I installed LOL!!!!! The quick throttle action and 0 slack make a HUGE difference. I did however notice a slight hesitation @ WOT like something was holding the bike back B4 the Denoid, thats gone now.

Mike
05-29-2015, 10:18 PM
While you don't drop any weight, you don't need the old simulator plug, just disconnect the cable. The computer will think it's still doing it's original job.
I also want to leave the plug in my 09 CR (for now), so I'll just be pulling the cable from its linkage location.

Mike

Brutus1190
05-30-2015, 02:22 AM
I did the same thing. My 1125 is waiting a new resistor plug....lol. I noticed the same things you did Ace! Do you know if there is a way to disengage the engine brake?

Mike
05-30-2015, 11:00 AM
Brute -

No "disengaging" the engine brake... It's the way the engine is tuned.
The only way way to change that is to change the lower cells on fuel the map, and as of now, we don't seem to have control of that as there is on the old 1125 engines...

I've done that on both my 1125 CR and my XB12s to some extent. Some is better than none.

Mike

Brutus1190
05-31-2015, 03:21 PM
Im not a fan of the engine braking. Are the new engines prone to making a lil more noise and vibration at lower rpm than the 1125's?

Classax
06-13-2015, 08:20 AM
While you don't drop any weight, you don't need the old simulator plug, just disconnect the cable. The computer will think it's still doing it's original job.
I also want to leave the plug in my 09 CR (for now), so I'll just be pulling the cable from its linkage location.

Mike

The noid and bracket weigh 3.1lbs and you do not need the plug if you run the race ecu which by the way has reduced engine braking. The race ECU is the number one accessory for this bike. DO NOT skip it.

bthibodeaux
06-13-2015, 08:59 AM
The noid and bracket weigh 3.1lbs and you do not need the plug if you run the race ecu which by the way has reduced engine braking. The race ECU is the number one accessory for this bike. DO NOT skip it.

That is if you can find it. Even NCCR in Sweden is out of them right now....

Classax
06-13-2015, 01:32 PM
Our Buddy Dean Adams is working on a solution for us...

Mike
06-13-2015, 05:31 PM
Fingers crossed................
Needs to be a EBR clone though...ignition timing also needs to be altered.

Brutus1190
06-15-2015, 06:54 PM
Please advise us when a solution is available as I would love to tweak mine. These bikes have so much more in them than what we see in stock form. Im on board if any of my past experience can help dont hesitate to holler at me. Im a few hours away from Dean Adams but dont mind the trip to help collaborate on this.

Plotter
07-12-2015, 09:18 PM
So he's working on tweaking the racing ECU to modify the timing, the flow with the exhaust, and the devoid?

zviadi
07-15-2015, 04:12 PM
Today I tried to eliminate the solenoid.
Disconnect the plug - on the dashboard displayed icon of engine overheating. I had to connect the connector back ...
He took off wire of solenoid with the throttle. Passed so some 300 kilometers, no changes in the behavior of the motorcycle are not found.
Maybe it makes sense to completely remove the solenoid and an electric socket to put some resistance, so that the dashboard does not light icon engine overheating? What value should be at this resistor?

Plotter
07-15-2015, 07:26 PM
There is a resistor you can buy to replace the solenoid to trick the system to think all is normal.

Brutus1190
07-15-2015, 07:27 PM
It is the same plug used for the denoid on the Buell 1125. You can still get them from Harley. If you look in some of the Buell forums under denoid then you can find the resistor plug number and order it from Harley or wait to see if EBR comes back and starts selling parts and bikes again.

Blwngto
07-15-2015, 09:02 PM
Its a standard 2 pin Deutsch 120 ohm automotive terminating resistor.
Deutsch Part Number DTM06-2S-P006

Plotter
07-15-2015, 10:46 PM
I found that part online. They also sell the 1125 part at American sports bike online.

zviadi
07-16-2015, 03:19 AM
It's him?

http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/18022

Plotter
07-16-2015, 07:40 PM
yes sir.

zviadi
07-17-2015, 04:57 AM
Thanks!

Plotter
07-17-2015, 11:13 AM
Not a problem, glad I could help.

zviadi
08-05-2015, 02:22 AM
At a forum on HD I read, it is not enough just to remove a cable servo motor with the throttle. We still make the valve flap in itself has been opened and it somehow fixed (by rivets or wire)
Did I understand correctly?

zviadi
08-05-2015, 02:45 AM
Incidentally, the partnumber of this resistor - Y0248.1AM.

Mike
08-05-2015, 02:05 PM
Correct, you need to secure both throttle body linkages together. I used a zip tie. You need to check this about once a year to make sure that it hasn't broken.
While I havent done it to my RX yet, I did do this to my 1125CR. Made a big (good) difference.

Mike

zviadi
08-05-2015, 02:40 PM
Today I inspected the throttle body and could not find this valve. Where is he located? Why strengthen the zip-tie?
As a result, I was limited to simply removing the cable from the servo motor drives the throttle body:

488

Photography is not mine, it is taken from this forum.

1313
08-05-2015, 07:34 PM
Before (lower portion of pic, about half way to the left):
484

After (no longer there):
485

Sorry for big pics, but it seems they worked...

zviadi
08-06-2015, 12:48 AM
Thank you for the photos. I have made it easier - until I can buy the eliminator, I just disconnected the cable. This is enough?
486

zviadi
08-06-2015, 12:50 AM
If I did, the engine became faster to respond to the gas handle.

489

Blwngto
08-06-2015, 05:51 AM
The throttle body linkages are linked together already and C clipped in. Where is the zip tie coming into play?

zviadi
08-06-2015, 07:05 AM
This is a question for me? If yes - I start the engine without airbox cover and watched, how works the mechanism of the throttle bodys. They operate together. What about the solenoid cable, without cable.
I do not understand - how to operate the solenoid. He covers the throttle valve below 4500 rpm? I do not understand why need zip-tie.

zviadi
08-06-2015, 07:16 AM
Dean Adams also viewed the construction of the solenoid:

http://ebrforum.com/showthread.php?136-Maintenance-on-the-RX&p=961&viewfull=1#post961

Photos of solenoid cable and the throttle body I have copied this post.
Interesting his opinion about the correctness of my actions for denoid.

Carbonbolt
08-06-2015, 03:53 PM
@ zviadi, im using the OEM plug since the first km, for you it isnīt nessesary to order in the US.
In Germany it is on stock: http://shop.buell-parts.com/OEM-Widerstandsstecker-Solenoid-fuer-alle-Buell-1125er-Modelle
(http://shop.buell-parts.com/OEM-Widerstandsstecker-Solenoid-fuer-alle-Buell-1125er-Modelle)
I have removed the solenoid completely and saved nearly 1,2kg.

Mike
08-06-2015, 10:59 PM
Post #28 -
Just below picture center and slightly to the right.
The tab that's bent to the right overlapping another small tab.
As I recall (been a while on my 1125CR), leaving those two parts loose may provide an unexpected throttle flutter sequence when opened hard at higher rpm's.
Sitting still in the garage...you won't notice anything wrong. They move together just fine in that case.

That's...what is tied together.

Mike

zviadi
08-07-2015, 01:11 AM
@ zviadi, im using the OEM plug since the first km, for you it isnīt nessesary to order in the US.
In Germany it is on stock: http://shop.buell-parts.com/OEM-Widerstandsstecker-Solenoid-fuer-alle-Buell-1125er-Modelle
(http://shop.buell-parts.com/OEM-Widerstandsstecker-Solenoid-fuer-alle-Buell-1125er-Modelle)
I have removed the solenoid completely and saved nearly 1,2kg.

Thanx for info!
But they don't send in Russia. It is necessary to write them a letter...

Carbonbolt
08-08-2015, 09:18 AM
Thanx for info!
But they don't send in Russia. It is necessary to write them a letter...

I will tell them that there will come an order from Russia. I call them this week.
Try it by email.
By the way: i dont earn money from them, we meet often on the track.

zviadi
08-08-2015, 03:35 PM
Big thanx, Christian!
I wrote a letter yesterday morning, until there is no answer ...

Carbonbolt
08-09-2015, 02:38 AM
Big thanx, Christian!
I wrote a letter yesterday morning, until there is no answer ...

...awnser will come. We called yesterday evening.:burnout:

zviadi
08-09-2015, 05:46 AM
Norbert wrote me reply. Thank you again for your help.

bthibodeaux
08-09-2015, 10:10 AM
If you still have a problem getting the plug, I just ordered 3 of them, and will sell 2 of them at my cost plus postage. Thanks.

Plotter
08-09-2015, 11:06 AM
I removed the solenoid and zip tied the connection with the new resistor... I pulled the cable and everything out... Man that thing was heavy...

Please confirm that the connector that you place the resistor in is what you are supposed to zip tie... Nothing to do with the linkage cable?...

zac4mac
08-09-2015, 11:57 AM
No not the elec cable you tie two mechanical parts together.

This used to be the best page but some of Mike's pix are not showing up. HTH

http://web.archive.org/web/20150320175943/http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/490767.html

Z

zviadi
08-10-2015, 12:52 AM
A small observation after removal of the linkage of the solenoid from the throttle valve.
Starting cold engine - revs to about 4000 rpm and not falling. The air temperature is about 85F. Have a little wiggle gas handle - then the revs gradually drop to standart 2000 rpm.
Has anyone else observed this?

Brutus1190
08-11-2015, 04:13 AM
Zviadi, you might need to adjust the free play in your throttle cable. I like mine tight and crisp.

Plotter, the zip tie goes on the linkage on the throttle plate. I will try to post a pic for you as soon as I can. May break mine down this week for a service.

Brutus1190
08-11-2015, 04:25 AM
511Plotter, I hope this helps clarify where the zip tie goes.

zviadi
08-11-2015, 05:05 AM
Zviadi, you might need to adjust the free play in your throttle cable.


Hmmm... It's not like the throttle is asynchronous. Throtle cable and his free play also ok.
When the temperature was lower, this effect was not observed.

Photo is great. Finally I understood where secures the zip-tie. So not ride - I have no time.
Later disassemble airbox and will take a closer look.

zviadi
08-16-2015, 02:22 PM
Starting cold engine - revs to about 4000 rpm and not falling. The air temperature is about 85F. Have a little wiggle gas handle - then the revs gradually drop to standart 2000 rpm.
Has anyone else observed this?

The air temperature dropped to 60 F - this effect disappeared. Motorcycle start up as usual.

SX_Bueller
08-16-2015, 07:24 PM
I have a curious question, if you use a zip-tie to connect the 2 pieces and would have to inspect if every year, could you use some lock-wire instead? I would think that lock-wire would hold up much better and have a better holding force.

I have read a few mixed answers regarding whether the restore plug is required when removing the solenoid. I under stand that its the same one as the 1125, but it seems that some say its not required and will not throw a CEL.

Just curious.

btw, does anyone have a full write up on how to de-noid everything? I will be getting my SX next month and this will be on the list to take care of.

Thanks

Brutus1190
08-18-2015, 02:42 AM
Sx-Bueller. ....I inspect mine every time I service the air filter. So far have had no need to replace the zip tie. Wire would work but I thing the zip tie works well.

bthibodeaux
08-18-2015, 09:38 AM
Sx-Bueller. ....I inspect mine every time I service the air filter. So far have had no need to replace the zip tie. Wire would work but I thing the zip tie works well.

I am curious as to what would cause the linkage to separate in the absence of the solenoid? There is a pretty strong spring there holding them together.

Brutus1190
08-20-2015, 12:27 AM
From what I understand it ensures the butterflies move together.

Plotter
08-20-2015, 01:58 PM
From what I understand it ensures the butterflies move together.

Is this something that was actually observed? I don't see what the removal of the cable does to cause this separation. The cable was not attached to the piece that is now getting ziptied together. Was there a different design with the 1125 on this part?

Mike
08-20-2015, 02:52 PM
As I noted earlier, under more "normal" speeds/throttle openings, the zip tie/lock wire is not required. Under more hard throttle/higher rpm, the stock spring is not enough and needs more to make sure both throttle shafts move and "stay" in unison.
Hence the zip tie or lock wire. I used a zip tie on my 1125CR and I drove that bike for around 30,000+ miles without problem...well, until the front ehxaust cam started falling apart..! It's still waiting for me to finish the cam swap..!

Mike

zviadi
08-29-2015, 01:06 AM
Thanks to Christian (Carbonbolt) and Norbert (Buell-parts.com), today received a resistor. Currently motorcycle located maintenance after 10,000 km.
The procedure for replacing the solenoid resistor spend yourself later.
About to the throttle bodies - I want to have them fastened with rivets, I do not want to apply zip-tie. Anyway during maintenance trottles it must be removed.

zviadi
08-30-2015, 06:41 AM
Today carefully considered throttle bodies, dismantled the bike. We do not need no zip-tie, no rivets, no wire. Throttle valve drive is designed so that both valves are opened at the same time in any position of the gas handle.
I will do nothing, just remove the solenoid.

Betterbuell
09-01-2015, 07:09 AM
I have binned the solenoid, but as curious as hell to understand
1. What does it actually do
2. How does it work.

Betterbuell
09-01-2015, 07:11 AM
I did find that the cables were restricting the throttle body to only 85-90% opening.

zac4mac
09-01-2015, 09:29 PM
It's purpose is to pass an US-EPA noise limit for the muffler.
The particular test specifies the vehicle pass a microphone under hard acceleration, i.e. WFO.
Buell and now EBR set the 'noid to fire just as it passes the mic, completely closing the throttle and instantly becoming quiet.

It only fires in 3rd gear, WFO at 5850rpm or something.

Z

Betterbuell
09-02-2015, 03:49 AM
Good it can stay in the bin then !