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noone1569
04-29-2015, 08:11 AM
So, I'm sitting right about 7k miles now and my chain is very unevenly worn. Time for a new one for sure.

Been talking to Timothy about the DiD ZVMX chain, and I'll probably swap to that.

My rear sprocket was replaced by EBR 700-1k miles ago, but I'll likely replace it and keep as an extra if I can.

Anyone have any sources for a front drive sprocket? Or rear for that matter, now that EBR is gone? Anyone tried any aftermarket sprockets/chains and have opinions?

Doosh
04-29-2015, 08:18 AM
The front drive sprocket is going to be challenging. Personally, I will be looking into using the race solution (uncompensated) when mine wears out, or getting in a drive-spline compatible front sprocket and machining spacers for it. The OEM part is outrageously expensive. The rear sprockets are apparently Vortex 812-XX (XX=tooth count) and readily available.

I run a 520 DID ERV3 chain. It's a quality chain -- set up right lasted me a whole race season.

oddball
04-30-2015, 12:25 PM
I'm curious, what is wearing unevenly? Is the tensioner doing it?

Wonder if the belt drive components off an 1125 will work? Or even survive the power. Though that Polaris Slingshot is running a belt.

noone1569
04-30-2015, 01:14 PM
I'm not sure exactly, oddball, but I do know that it is extremely tight (10mm roughly) in one area and loose (30-35 mm) in another. I know there is a bit of difference throughout the chain, but that's significant.

What's causing? Probably wheelies and hard launches honestly :cheers:

Doosh
04-30-2015, 01:37 PM
What's causing? Probably wheelies and hard launches honestly :cheers:

That or a major suspension excursion with a chain set slightly too tight.

oddball
04-30-2015, 08:31 PM
Are you saying he played Ghost Rider and jumped a few helicopters?

1313
05-07-2015, 05:57 AM
"The rear sprockets are apparently Vortex 812-XX (XX=tooth count) and readily available."

Isn't the Vortex part number actually 821-XX? I recently bought a Vortex 821-41 (to match stock gearing) off an eBay ad and it seems to be a perfect match (same hole pattern, proper ID, etc.).

mackja
05-07-2015, 02:43 PM
Front and rear sprockets are available from parts unlimited, order from AF1. vortex sprockets that we can currently buy are aluminum, stock steel is not available through them until EBR chapter 128 is finalized.

1313
05-09-2015, 03:11 PM
The 1190RX OE rear sprocket is steel? If that's true, it must be stainless steel as a magnet won't stick to my OE sprocket or either OE replacement I've purchased.

Classax
05-15-2015, 07:23 PM
The oem is not steel it's hard anodized aluminum. Its been lightened in multiple ways. You will notice it has much larger holes and while the load bearing tooth ring is standard thickness, the inner area is 3mm thinner.

Mike
05-29-2015, 01:21 PM
Interesting...

No...the OEM rear sprocket IS aluminum.
Also, two of us called Vortex (seperatly), they do not make them, nore do they plan to, is what we were both told.

But...I know a shop that has found the "original" manufacturer and hopefully is planning on having the various tooth count sprockets available.
Stand by.

Mike

ebr1190rxyellow
05-29-2015, 03:43 PM
I came across this website today. It's in Sweden but they have everything we could ever want for the rx and sx. Check it out. I'm ordering the race ecu and exhaust. They have it for $560. http://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buell-racing-1/

Capt
05-30-2015, 05:26 PM
I came across this website today. It's in Sweden but they have everything we could ever want for the rx and sx. Check it out. I'm ordering the race ecu and exhaust. They have it for $560. http://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buell-racing-1/


Make sure you call first. I spoke with Jens, the engineer there, 2 1/2 weeks ago and they do not have that in stock. They do however make their own tips. They have a software guy who is working with Erik to get permission to access the software and write a program but as of yet they haven't completed the remap.

Blwngto
06-01-2015, 06:56 PM
Danny from On Track powersports has sourced the vendor for rear sprockets. He can give you the price, which was a very good one. I think he needed something like 43 buyers to make an order.

Mike
06-02-2015, 02:13 PM
Not just "a" vendor, but the "original" manufacturer of the rear sprockets.

Mike

Blwngto
06-02-2015, 06:50 PM
You sir are correct!

noone1569
06-03-2015, 10:51 AM
Weird that vortex told me via e-mail they made the OEM sprockets.

Red93stang
06-03-2015, 04:43 PM
Weird that vortex told me via e-mail they made the OEM sprockets.

I hope its true that way I can get ahold of a 44 tooth rear.

I know they made the clip ons. Mine is one of the early bikes that has the Vortex logo on the clip on.

Mike
06-03-2015, 07:21 PM
As noted above, two phone calls by two people..."No"

Mike

Mike
06-04-2015, 10:28 AM
If anyone needs/wants a sprocket, give Danny at On Track Power Sports a call.
There is no "quantity of people" required. I ordered two last night.
Sorry no, I didn't ask the cost. On one hand, from EBR they are more expensive than from the manufacturer, so they'll be no more than the EBR price ("about" $150), hopefully a bit less.
But if you have the money for the bike and gas, a sprocket shouldn't be a big deal.

Mike

Blwngto
06-04-2015, 09:47 PM
Ordered 2 today

noone1569
07-17-2015, 07:09 AM
So those of you that have ordered rear sprockets, what'd you get from where? Sheered 3 teeth off again with ~2k miles on rear sprocket.

zviadi
07-17-2015, 03:59 PM
Do I need to change chain tensioner when replacing chain and sprockets? It is in fact the third sprocket...
If yes - where to buy it?

Blwngto
07-17-2015, 04:53 PM
Rear sprocket order didn't happen yet. The folks that said they would make them haven't said yes or no so its a waiting game for now. Hopefully ontrack will keep inquiring with them until they give in!

Hughlysses
07-31-2015, 09:37 AM
Jens Kruper posted to Facebook this morning that they are ordering a run of rear sprockets to fit EBRs. If you're not friends with him on Facebook, here's the EBR page of his company's website:

http://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buell-racing-3/

Note that they are located in Sweden.

Mike
07-31-2015, 11:05 AM
Yea, what Blwngto said.
I've been calling every two weeks or so. I think they're dropping the ball on their outlet dropping the ball.
More people need to bug the Ontrack guys to bug the manufacturer...

Mike

noone1569
07-31-2015, 11:46 AM
Vortex has them in stock right now. Call to order. Reasonable price as well. 70ish shipped

Mike
07-31-2015, 04:11 PM
Really...last time I called Vortex (about 6 weeks ago), not only did they tell me that they didn't have any, they also said that they would not be making any...!?
Interesting.

Mike

noone1569
07-31-2015, 04:14 PM
Really...last time I called Vortex (about 6 weeks ago), not only did they tell me that they didn't have any, they also said that they would not be making any...!?
Interesting.

Mike

Yup. Got one on my rx right now part #821-xx for how many teeth you want

noone1569
07-31-2015, 04:21 PM
Really...last time I called Vortex (about 6 weeks ago), not only did they tell me that they didn't have any, they also said that they would not be making any...!?
Interesting.

Mike

Yup. Got one on my rx right now part #821-xx for how many teeth you want

470

zviadi
08-01-2015, 02:29 AM
Where to buy front sprocket?

mackja
08-01-2015, 06:10 AM
You should be able to order OEM parts from N.C.C.R. Northern Classic, Custom & Race, think they are located in Netherlands, they show sprocket available, among many other parts and accessories.

zviadi
08-02-2015, 05:05 PM
Thanx!

Capt
08-03-2015, 09:13 PM
Just got my bike back from the Break in service. Rode for one hour stopped to get gas and noticed all sorts of metal shavings above the chain guard, on my rear rim, on the kickstand, and underneath what I believe is the tension wheel.

I think that the chain is fairly loose as well. I'm not that mechanical. But I am assuming that small metal wheel with rubber on either side is some sort of tension wheel. As I look at it from the front of the bike underneath. It looks as if the metal part should be centered in the middle of the chain allowing the rubber to rest on either side of the links themselves.

I am not certain but it looks like it is a little too inboard and therefore could be rubbing on the wrong part of the chain and causing the tension wheel to get grinded down. It does look rough around the edges but I cannot be certain. Anyone else have this issue?

rx1190kevin
08-04-2015, 07:26 AM
My rear sprocket was ruined because I followed the spec's for chain slack in the owners manual. I even called Adam Wells at EBR and asked him if the spec's were correct. They are NOT right. The bike suspension geometry will tear up the sprocket. I leave my chain at about an inch or so. Besides the chain tensioner works great for slack. Have put about 4,000 miles on new sprocket,looks great. Af1 has both rear and aft final drive sprockets

zviadi
08-04-2015, 08:21 AM
Describe in more detail - that incorrectly stated in the manual?

481
If you believe this picture, the distance from the bottom of the chain link to the swingarm should be 30 ± 2 mm. You leave 25 mm, less than specified in the manual.
Under these conditions, the probability of failure chain and rear sprocket is higher, because chain tensioned stronger.

zviadi
08-04-2015, 08:25 AM
I rode this bike has 7,500 km, chain and sprokets like new. Do not tighten the chain once.

mackja
08-04-2015, 08:34 AM
I have adjusted mine according to EBR manual, I clean and lube on a frequent basis and after 5000 miles I have no noticeable wear on my chain or sprockets, they still look like new.

noone1569
08-04-2015, 08:49 AM
I'm with rx1190kevin. I killed the rear sprocket running right at 30mm slack. Ripped 4 teeth off in about 4k miles. EBR replaced under warranty for me (note: the owner's manual does not have a timeline for replacing sprockets and chain).

Ripped 3 more teeth off of new rear sprocket (checking frequently, at 30mm slack) by 7500 miles. Replaced chain with DID X Ring, front sprocket with OEM, rear sprocket with vortex now. Running chain bit tighter now probably closer to 25-20mm. Lets see if that holds. Front sprocket was smoked at 7500 miles, too. OEM chain was stretched and generally worn out.

Classax
08-04-2015, 12:09 PM
I’m not saying I’m right or know it all when it comes to this stuff; I can only provide my personal experience after 12k miles. On this bike the chain slack is checked at the top and tension remains the same 30mm throughout the travel of the swing arm as opposed to conventional setups where the chain gets tighter as moves through its travel from center towards the ends. With the EBR there is almost no rear static sag and the bike sits at the top of its travel at a rest.

Running the chain too loose will cause it to eat though the chain rub and into the swing arm itself VERY QUICKLY. When setting the chain tension you have to be aware that as you tighten the axle nut it will increase the tension a few mm so don’t be just set it at 30mm and then torque it down or you will actually be running 25mm which is too tight. I found that the stock chain may as well have been made out of taffy because it stretched every hard ride. Then again it is a 520 race chain and most bikes with this much power are sporting 525 and 530( that weigh a TON)chain. Too loose a chain and wheelie or eight hard launches or a bumpy track allow for chain snatch ( when set right the EBR has nearly none) which is an excellent way to shear a few teeth off even a new sprocket. The cush protects the front sprocket and tranny ( not to mention centralizing the weight( even though it’s a heavier set up overall than a conventional set up)) so rear sprocket wear is going to be higher.

I ditched the stock chain at 7.5K miles for a DID 520 Z-VMX chain. NO chain stretch since. The side plates are ever so slightly more narrow than stock so there is some side ware to the sprocket teeth but nothing worth concern. It’s a little heavier than the 520 ER but it is also a little stronger and about the same price while still being lighter than the OEM chain. Next time I will go with the 520 ER. In my experience too loose is far more dangerous on this bike than too tight, but too tight is easy to do accidently and it winds up WAY too tight. Set it per the manual but when the axel nut is loose it should be at about 35mm because when you torque the axel nut the chain will tighten a bit. Lastly you must be absolutely sure about the rear wheel alignment or you will set the whole bike up to have a bad day. You do not want the chain bowing side to side when leaned over or on decal enough to touch the sides or you will have a very bad day.

Chain too tight- No whine on decel, bumpy rear suspension like you have too much compression- sprockets teeth bend towards front of bike at the TIPS

Chain too loose- Excessive whine on decal, may be even a clattering sound from contact with the chain rub SIDES, suspension feels like you have rear too little rebound, bike chews through chain rub, chain snatch on off throttle and will shear teeth. Sprocket teeth look like ocean waves.

Chain goldie-locks zone – Whine on decal, chain flap side to side and contact the sides of chain rub. Sprocket teeth stay straight but narrow to points as they wear.

That's just what I have seen on this bike. On others you set your chain to SMILE and away you go. The EBR is much finickier about stuff like this since it takes a different approach in the way its engineered to perform.

zviadi
08-05-2015, 01:26 AM
It is strange that when adjusting the slack of the chain is not taken into account the weight of the rider, as it happens with any other motorcycles.

rx1190kevin
08-05-2015, 06:25 AM
Well, my sprocket is great, swing arm is not chewed up, and this isn't my first rodeo,so I know what I'm doing when I set chain slack. My son (who had a 1125, (2) zx-10) told me I was running it too tight,but I assured him that I called EBR and it was correct, then chewed rear sprocket! I had a zx-14 ( that I traded in for my dream bike ,the RX ) was about an inch slack. I feel confident in my decision.

Classax
08-05-2015, 07:20 AM
My rear sprocket was ruined because I followed the spec's for chain slack in the owners manual. I even called Adam Wells at EBR and asked him if the spec's were correct. They are NOT right. The bike suspension geometry will tear up the sprocket. I leave my chain at about an inch or so. Besides the chain tensioner works great for slack. Have put about 4,000 miles on new sprocket,looks great. Af1 has both rear and aft final drive sprockets

You do realise that an Inch is equal to about 25mm- so an inch or SO puts your right in that 30mm range. I'm just saying...

zviadi
08-05-2015, 02:48 PM
Today inspected mine chain and swingarm. The chain is almost touching the swingarm - distance of less than 10 mm.
To it was 30 mm must be strong to pull the chain. Perhaps that is why the chain will break - it is a strong tension!

I do not understand - it is necessary to measure the maximum free lift chains take her hand as far as possible from the swingarm to get the 30 + - 2 mm? Or is it the distance should be at free state of chain?

rx1190kevin
08-06-2015, 07:36 AM
Junkie your right,30 mm is an inch and so,lol. I did the calculation from mm to inches wrong. Ebr was correct ,I was the one who screwed up. So the manual is correct. I got the conversion off the computer and it was no where near an 1 and so. I did **** up royally, and I'm man enough to admit it

remooney
02-23-2016, 06:21 PM
I have about 2200 miles on my new EBR 1190rx and I need to replace my chain guard/rub at it has eaten through the bottom and the side of the guard as seen in the pictures attached. I had my bike serviced at a Contra Costa Powersports in Concord CA just after the break in period and I had asked them to adjust the chain. I will review the tension of the chain and examine the tooth wear on the sprocket.

Classax, is summary what chain would you go with next? and are you aware of tougher after market chain rubs/guards?

822823

buell-fan
02-23-2016, 06:59 PM
Remooney, it looks as though your chain is in need of replacing. It is falling pretty far to the side to have that much material ate away from the swingarm.

In everyone's opinion, who makes a better, longer lasting chain for our machines? They seem to stretch, as many have noted on here. Or maybe it is that the link pin holes are wearing a lot, as it apprears is the case here with remooney.

noone1569
02-24-2016, 09:13 AM
Replaced mine with this one per a recommendation from here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LAI7U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've had to adjust it 4-5 times in 3500 miles compared to the every other ride adjustment on the OEM Regina.

Classax
02-25-2016, 09:23 AM
I have about 2200 miles on my new EBR 1190rx and I need to replace my chain guard/rub at it has eaten through the bottom and the side of the guard as seen in the pictures attached. I had my bike serviced at a Contra Costa Powersports in Concord CA just after the break in period and I had asked them to adjust the chain. I will review the tension of the chain and examine the tooth wear on the sprocket.

Classax, is summary what chain would you go with next? and are you aware of tougher after market chain rubs/guards?

822823

A couple things. Your chain is too loose. 2 your wheel alignment looks off to the drive side.

The chain rub has a center tounge thay keeps a properly aligned chain in the center. If the chain is run too loose too long the tounge gets worn away allowing the chaon to flop side to side. You need a new slider and a new chain. DID520 VMX if you're street riding and ER if you track and replace it regularly. Just my 2cents though.

Slickit
02-28-2016, 12:00 AM
yea looking at the pics the pins on your chain links are getting damaged. If they loose their flare on the ends that can allow the links to come apart and if they come apart at all its going to be when you have a lot of stress on them so it will be at the worst possible time. I would probably get a new chain like Classax said just to be safe although there isn't that much damage to them yet.

Brutus1190
02-28-2016, 11:46 PM
For some reason if you adjust the bike while on a swingarm stand it will be tight when you put it on the ground.....

rocketjump
03-15-2016, 10:35 PM
Cleaned and lubed my chain yesterday with AMSOIL MP heavy duty metal protector. I'm getting no chain whine on decel in 1st gear only .... Any ideas?

noone1569
03-16-2016, 07:06 AM
Cleaned and lubed my chain yesterday with AMSOIL MP heavy duty metal protector. I'm getting no chain whine on decel in 1st gear only .... Any ideas?

Really like the MP myself.

How is your tension? Your slider and idler still in good shape? How many miles?

rocketjump
03-16-2016, 10:25 AM
The bike has 2200 miles on it so it shouldn't be anything catastrophic. I won't have a day off for about a week so I can't really check .. My work schedule sucks. What would I be looking for in the slider and idler?

also I was riding with a passenger on the back and I noticed power loss in 4th+ gear...

zviadi
03-17-2016, 05:19 AM
Clutch broke?

d_adams
03-17-2016, 06:05 AM
The bike has 2200 miles on it so it shouldn't be anything catastrophic. I won't have a day off for about a week so I can't really check .. My work schedule sucks. What would I be looking for in the slider and idler?

also I was riding with a passenger on the back and I noticed power loss in 4th+ gear...


Light clutch pull kit installed?

rocketjump
03-17-2016, 09:35 AM
Light clutch pull kit installed?
Nope, bike is completely stock. It only appears when a passenger is on though.

cumulative weight between the both us .. Maybe 260lbs.

the no whine on decel appears anytime, 2nd gear and up are fine.

Classax
03-21-2016, 11:39 AM
No whine on decel means one of two things, either the chain is too tight or chain rub has been worn down. The stock chain really stretches a lot. By a lot I mean by amount and frequency. It should be checked after EVERY ride. Also remember it must be checked on top as the idler maintains the tension on the bottom through out the swingarm travel.

Sparky
03-21-2016, 03:16 PM
I believe that no whine on decel means the chain is too loose. At least that's what Jacob S., honcho, at MotoEnthusiasts says. http://motoenthusiasts.com/

Classax
03-22-2016, 08:18 AM
I believe that no whine on decel means the chain is too loose. At least that's what Jacob S., honcho, at MotoEnthusiasts says. http://motoenthusiasts.com/
I don't claim to know it all, but in my experiences with the bike; too tight and the chain doesn't have enough slack on decel to rub the slide shoe which I think is what makes the whine. If the rub is worn down too much it won't whine at the proper tension. Too loose and it will quickly eat through the slide shoe and into the swing arm. The slide shoe has a center ridge that keeps the chain centered. Once it is gone the chain will also batter the sides of the opening in the swing arm as well. Don't listen to people who say the bottom run should smile, the idler maintains constant slack. Set your slack like a yamahondasuki and you're setting yourself up to have a real bad day.

Betterbuell
03-23-2016, 05:28 AM
OK, noticed my bike does not have the WHINE as usual. Sort of like the jet fighter noise on decel. I wonder if swing arm angle has some influence as well ? My bike is track only and I am about to have a good look at at all service areas before next meet . watched the wsbk at Misano a couple of years ago and there was plenty of whine going on there .

greest_lightnin
08-05-2016, 11:10 PM
I read this thread twice and am still confused. Guess I gotta read it a couple more times.

I have the AF1 manual and can't seem to find the chain tensioning procedure. Is the AF1 manual the same as EBR's?

Thanks,

Al

blackhawk
08-06-2016, 12:01 AM
No whine on decel means one of two things, either the chain is too tight or chain rub has been worn down. The stock chain really stretches a lot. By a lot I mean by amount and frequency. It should be checked after EVERY ride. Also remember it must be checked on top as the idler maintains the tension on the bottom through out the swingarm travel.

100% , check it like tire pressure

buell-fan
08-06-2016, 12:37 PM
I have the AF1 manual and can't seem to find the chain tensioning procedure. Is the AF1 manual the same as EBR's?

Thanks,

Al

They are the same. And it may be the same as the dealer service manual as well; those seem non-existant.

zviadi
09-11-2016, 02:44 PM
How many links does stock chain?

Classax
09-12-2016, 07:24 AM
How many links does stock chain?

116 links stock

zviadi
09-12-2016, 07:34 AM
Thanks!
Yesterday, I found that my rear sproket have nothing left. Nearly the following picture:

1116

Well, maybe a little better situation - three millimeters left on the teeth.
As a result, when driving the roar of the chain overshoot on the rear sprocket teeth.
Milleage of stock chain is 19000 km.
Classax was right - the chain tension plays an important role on this motorcycle. Two days ago, she almost pull to 20 mm free play - and here's the result.

zviadi
09-15-2016, 03:16 PM
My old sprockets:

1117
:jawdrop:

Soarer
06-20-2017, 10:01 AM
I just spoke with an EBR factory tech and he gave me some clarification on chain tensioning.
#1 the slack should be measured from the top of the flat part of the plastic chain guide (shoe as some refer to it)
#2 it should be tighter that you're used to on your Jap bikes because it is engineered differently
#3 if you are running a 44 tooth sprocket, set the slack to 27mm
#4 check it frequently especially with a new bike as the chain goes through its initial stretch

He told me that on the EBR, the chain is tightest when the swingarm/frame/sprockets are in alignment which is when the bike is at rest with no one on it. As the suspension compresses, the chain slack will increase. This is unlike the Jap bikes I'm used to where they get tighter as the suspension compresses. He said he's got 5k miles on his 1190SX with the original chain and it still looks in excellent condition.

Nemesis
07-06-2017, 08:09 PM
Hi guys, im after a new chain and sprocket kit for the 1190rx, i hear the 44 tooth is good to run?
Not looking for cheap weak rubbish due to these things having a knack for wrecking chains...

If anyone could link me in the right direction i'd be greatful!
Im from aus if it makes a difference :wave:

Subarubrat
07-06-2017, 09:50 PM
I ordered mine from EBR the first go to make sure I had the right thing, not a stupid amount more expensive than other suppliers and I knew it was the right stuff. Turns out the chain is the same type my Honda dirtbike uses, just with a riveted link.

44T is WAY better than stock on the street, you don't have to feather the clutch up to 25-30mph and 6th gear actually gets used. I get that people like the idea of a "race" vehicle on the road, I certainly do. But too often manufacturers go too far on the wrong item trying to demonstrate the "race" aspect. I bought a ZL1 Camaro, it came with track tires that would spin like like you were driving in snow if the tem was below 75 - 80 deg out, usable tires would have been better with the track tires as an option. Same with this bike being geared for the track, 44T should have been stock with 39T as an option. For both vehicles I cited, the vast majority are street driven primarily.

TerryS1980
07-07-2017, 07:37 AM
I went with a D.I.D ERV 3 520 x 120 link chain and Vortex 821-43. The D.I.D ZVM-X is a slightly heavier but works just as good if not better.

Nemesis
07-10-2017, 11:48 PM
Need a front sprocket, 16 front (is that standard?) 44 rear..

Guys help me out here lol. I can get a chain but the sprockets seem to be a pain in the ass.

TerryS1980
07-11-2017, 06:07 AM
http://store.58cycle.com/2Vortex_PN_821_44_Rear_Sprocket_Silver_p/2vortex%20pn%20821-44.htm or call Vortex

Hughlysses
07-11-2017, 06:21 AM
http://store.58cycle.com/2Vortex_PN_821_44_Rear_Sprocket_Silver_p/2vortex%20pn%20821-44.htm or call Vortex

Note that the page says this:

Availability: Currently Unavailable

rb21
07-11-2017, 12:59 PM
Need a front sprocket, 16 front (is that standard?) 44 rear..

Guys help me out here lol. I can get a chain but the sprockets seem to be a pain in the ass.

EBR direct for the front sprocket, Vortex direct for the rear sprocket.

TerryS1980
07-11-2017, 01:01 PM
Didn't see that...

rb21
07-11-2017, 02:04 PM
I just ordered some parts direct from EBR and the transaction was smooth and fast. I simply filled out their form and emailed it to them last night at 10pm. Had confirming e-mail this morning and just received shipping information stating that I should have my parts by Friday. Can't beat that service. I am sure that you could get a front sprocket direct from them with no problems

buell-fan
07-11-2017, 04:30 PM
http://store.58cycle.com/2Vortex_PN_821_44_Rear_Sprocket_Silver_p/2vortex%20pn%20821-44.htm or call Vortex

A call to Vortex and they will have a sprocket cut to whatever tooth you want for the EBR, from 39 tooth up to whatever.

Nemesis
07-11-2017, 09:20 PM
Thanks heaps guys, i've read the entire thread again a guy posted this
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTR1490-42-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B001AVS70I?th=1

Which is literally 100 dollars cheaper than the original ebr item according to the swedish website lol. I like the look of the vortex one too and its cheaper again!

The distributor in aus is literally OUT of spares which is abit worrisome. Sorry for draining your lives guys but the help is definately appreciated. :301:

Nemesis
07-11-2017, 09:38 PM
Apparently the vortex sprockets are weak which im abit hesitant about. Our bikes are torque monsters they love smashing sprockets and chains we need the strongest stuff.

Nemesis
07-14-2017, 01:14 AM
Spoke with a representative from JT sprockets,

"We do not list replacement sprockets for the EBR1190RX, nor do we have have any fitment specifications so cannot confirm the suitability of JTR1490. If you are able to provide detailed fitting dimensions I would be happy to search our database for suitable replacements.
I am sorry that I cannot be of more help at this time and look forward to your reply."


Anyone care to help on that so i can let him know ?
Im retarded and have no clue on fiting dimensions:thumbsdown:

Nemesis
07-14-2017, 01:16 AM
Ok now the editor is being retarded too fantastic :lol:

noone1569
07-20-2017, 09:04 AM
Apparently the vortex sprockets are weak which im abit hesitant about. Our bikes are torque monsters they love smashing sprockets and chains we need the strongest stuff.

Not in my experience.

3k street miles, 4 track days on one. And it still looks fantastic. And I'm not easy on my bike by any means, but I am religious about chain tension. And having a higher quality chain seems to help wear in general.

Nemesis
07-20-2017, 09:42 AM
Not in my experience.

3k street miles, 4 track days on one. And it still looks fantastic. And I'm not easy on my bike by any means, but I am religious about chain tension. And having a higher quality chain seems to help wear in general.


Interesting and that's great to hear! Personally i love the look of the vortex ones they look great but if its not reliable than whats the point.

I'll be putting the best EK chain available, so far i've ordered a rear from JT, and ebr havent got back to me since i told them their price hike was
ridiculous via email lol

noone1569
07-20-2017, 10:44 AM
Yeah I'm partial to the pink vortex and DID ZVMX chain.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LAI7U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1567

Nemesis
07-21-2017, 12:06 AM
Yeah I'm partial to the pink vortex and DID ZVMX chain.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LAI7U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1567


That rear tail.. If you ever decide to sell it seperately im sure a few people here would be interested!

EBRRider
08-03-2017, 05:14 PM
I have a JT 43 sprocket, waited till I changed the rubber at the same time.
1615161616171618

1190SX
08-03-2017, 08:46 PM
Those are some sticky tires :eek:

EBRRider
08-03-2017, 10:19 PM
Dunlop sportmax GP A pro :301::301::301:

MakingPAIN
08-04-2017, 03:07 PM
RUBBER CEMENT TIRES!!!!!! Arizona doesn't have enough corners to get your tires to look like that lol

Kid Thunder
08-05-2017, 02:03 PM
I ordered an O ring with 117mm inner diameter & 2.5mm thickness which should take up the 3mm space between sprocket & hub. The extra 2mm should be the squash area. Not that an O ring would it a more solid mount. Just a try!

Nemesis
08-06-2017, 12:52 AM
I ordered an O ring with 117mm inner diameter & 2.5mm thickness which should take up the 3mm space between sprocket & hub. The extra 2mm should be the squash area. Not that an O ring would it a more solid mount. Just a try!

Is that to fit the jt sprocket or?

Kid Thunder
08-06-2017, 09:13 AM
Yes for the hub.

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 10:01 AM
Just went for a 200 mile loop all is well with JT steel sprocket.

Up 168 to Shaver lake then around Hunting Lake back to Shaver for Pizza.
162016211622

Nemesis
08-06-2017, 10:05 AM
Yes for the hub.

Cool cheers for that looks like i'll have to do the same!

I was excited to get the ek 3d Z series chain for 156 on amazon but they dont do free shipping to aus lol. All up its like 270 aus with
shipping, Eeeek.

Just rambling lol

Nemesis
08-06-2017, 10:06 AM
Just went for a 200 mile loop all is well with JT steel sprocket.

Up 168 to Shaver lake then around Hunting Lake back to Shaver for Pizza.
162016211622


How do you go against the duc?

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 10:21 AM
We traded bikes on some twisties, the Duc 848 something, Great brakes, super suspension, the wind dont beat you up, carves really well , weak on HP, But my son the rider of the duc is a much better rider than I ,so that being said he would wait for me every few miles. :headbang:

Nemesis
08-06-2017, 10:36 AM
We traded bikes on some twisties, the Duc 848 something, Great brakes, super suspension, the wind dont beat you up, carves really well , weak on HP, But my son the rider of the duc is a much better rider than I ,so that being said he would wait for me every few miles. :headbang:

Oh cool!
I thought it was the 1098!
My best friend had an 848 evo, nice bike, but too stiff on the road for my liking.

1190SX
08-06-2017, 10:52 AM
We traded bikes on some twisties, the Duc 848 something, Great brakes, super suspension, the wind dont beat you up, carves really well , weak on HP, But my son the rider of the duc is a much better rider than I ,so that being said he would wait for me every few miles. :headbang:


You passed a couple of my friends going the opposite direction. They mentioned the red EBR.

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 10:59 AM
You passed a couple of my friends going the opposite direction. They mentioned the red EBR.

Yep that was me :wave:I wave to all bikes. What were they riding ?

1190SX
08-06-2017, 11:04 AM
1948 Indian Chief and 1946 Scout. My friend was impressed with the wave mid lean flying through the corner lol.

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 11:13 AM
1948 Indian Chief and 1946 Scout. My friend was impressed with the wave mid lean flying through the corner lol.

Let me guess he was riding with my next door neighbor Mike K,
1623

1190SX
08-06-2017, 11:17 AM
You are correct sir. Mike was also with them.

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 11:30 AM
You are correct sir. Mike was also with them.

Yea I was on the phone with mike earlier this AM ,he was telling me all about his ride with the guys , photo shoot for the bikes and all . Great guy to have as a neighbor.

1190SX
08-06-2017, 12:11 PM
http://i64.tinypic.com/dbjodw.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/260xsf5.jpg

EBRRider
08-06-2017, 12:17 PM
Thank you !!! awesome ! Too bad Mike has butt crack sweat on his seat .LOL I have been corrected it is a Indian label. By Mike himself.

1190SX
08-06-2017, 05:52 PM
Thank you !!! awesome ! Too bad Mike has butt crack sweat on his seat .LOL I have been corrected it is a Indian label. By Mike himself.

fair enough lol

Nemesis
08-07-2017, 01:27 AM
I ordered an O ring with 117mm inner diameter & 2.5mm thickness which should take up the 3mm space between sprocket & hub. The extra 2mm should be the squash area. Not that an O ring would it a more solid mount. Just a try!

Im about to order mine , what material do you reccommend out of these?



Nitrile (NBR) N55, N60, N70, N80 & N90
Viton V75 & V90
EPDM E70
Silicone S70
PTFE
Polyurethane P90
HNBR
Neoprene (CR) C70
Aflas
Kalrez
PTFE encapsulated Viton
PTFE encapsulated Silicone
Flurosilicone

zviadi
08-07-2017, 07:56 AM
http://i64.tinypic.com/dbjodw.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/260xsf5.jpg

Offtop: Old classic Indians are great and beautiful.
I'm envy:cheers:

Cooter
08-07-2017, 12:07 PM
Im about to order mine , what material do you reccommend out of these?


It's just there to take up slack and get it mounted, the rubber of any type would never support it for load. Got a buddy with a lathe? They could spin up a 117mmID, 120mm OD ring of steel or aluminum pretty easily.

Kid Thunder
08-07-2017, 01:11 PM
That sounds good. Get back to me on that. I'm by it off him.

Kid Thunder
08-07-2017, 01:19 PM
Nitrile is what I ordered. 117mmX2,5mm. That would total 5mm which should squeeze down enough to work. But as Cooter says a metal ring would work best.

Nemesis
08-08-2017, 01:04 AM
It's just there to take up slack and get it mounted, the rubber of any type would never support it for load. Got a buddy with a lathe? They could spin up a 117mmID, 120mm OD ring of steel or aluminum pretty easily.


Will that help mount that particular jt sprocket if im correct?

Yeh cool i can get that made. Thanks alot cooter, the more precise the measurement the better.

Nemesis
08-08-2017, 10:45 AM
When you try buy a 520 chain an the guy is telling you that it is not reccommended to run a 520 pitch with an engine this size lol

"This may be a strong chain but a 525 or 530 will be stronger than a 520. EK states in their catalog that they recommend one to use a 525 or 530 chain for a bike your size. Please view attachment and you're welcome to view information by following provided link.

http://www.ekchain.jp/product/pdf/cartalog_02.pdf "


I know this dude, dont blame me talk to eric lol

EBRRider
08-08-2017, 11:40 AM
just helping out here .use this link. http://www.ekchain.jp/product/pdf/cartalog_02.pdf

Kid Thunder
08-08-2017, 01:37 PM
Yeah. These 520 chains are usually used on race bikes to save weight. They are considerably lighter. But are changed often. I was surprised when I saw it on the EBR. When I bought the SX I figured I would just change sprockets from the aftermarket later! Little did I know that it would be a problem because of the front sprocket!! I knew that it had the cush drive on it but I thought it could be separated from the cush!! Opps! Why did you do it this way Erik? Most of these bikes are street ridden.

1190SX
08-08-2017, 02:37 PM
Because, race bike. Did you forget it also has horrible street gearing

Kid Thunder
08-08-2017, 04:45 PM
Yeah but that can be fixed with a rear sprocket.

1190SX
08-08-2017, 06:25 PM
True, the cush drive is not as easily remedied. If only Erik had someone on board that could have helped harness all his genius and passion. They could have told him " Erik, this is all great stuff, but maybe we should change the gearing for the street(especially the SX) and use a chain a little more durable for longevity on the street like a 530 chain" I always thought that was the cool thing about him, he made riders bikes. He really only missed on the gearing and a few other small items on these bikes. I was kind of baffled when I saw his personal SX had lower pegs and higher bars?? He should have done the same on the production bikes(for the SX)

Cooter
08-11-2017, 01:31 AM
There's a whole lot of considerations we are missing.

Nemesis
08-13-2017, 10:44 PM
There's a whole lot of considerations we are missing.

Tell us brother?

Cooter
08-14-2017, 11:34 PM
Just a couple I can think of are the "EPA regs" that EBR tech mentioned where they needed to re-certify the Black Lightning simply for the rear sprocket change. .gov FTW...

the 520 chain uses less power to run, does EBR really care if it becomes a maintenance part with a slightly more frequent replacement schedule when they can advertise the hero HP numbers to sell bikes?

How about a quickshifter stock??? Obviously the stock ECM can handle the task as the '16-'17 bikes were enabled without the 'update' why not add the sensor that most every other superbike has? Because $550 more in their pocket is easier than adding it to the MSRP.

I agree they missed only a few small things on AN AMAZING ride. But it had to follow the .gov rules, fit every idiot that signed the contract, AND make the most sales and up sells it could. Sacrifices had to be made.

Another thing is is we have the gift of hindsight. These were being designed in 2012. Now, 5 years later it's the same exact bike when every other mfg has spent millions on redesigns and electronic packages and testing.

1190SX
08-15-2017, 08:17 AM
True, it is probably comparable to a circa 2010 superbike

Nemesis
08-17-2017, 01:19 AM
Nitrile is what I ordered. 117mmX2,5mm. That would total 5mm which should squeeze down enough to work. But as Cooter says a metal ring would work best.


Lol yeh metal ring isnt happening.

Have to get it made and it will cost stupid.

Cooter
08-17-2017, 11:51 AM
Why would it be expensive?? Either steel or 6061-7075 aluminum on a lathe for 5 mins is all it takes?

Nemesis
08-18-2017, 12:29 AM
Why would it be expensive?? Either steel or 6061-7075 aluminum on a lathe for 5 mins is all it takes?


Because it's down under and people are backwards cooter, what do you want me to say lol.

Tried 3 different "companies/places".

1190SX
08-20-2017, 08:28 PM
So Whats the verdict on the JT sprockets so far? Any issues? Is Vortex still the go to? Looking to order a 44T.

EBRRider
08-20-2017, 10:33 PM
My 43 JT is working fine on my bike, I have about 300 miles on it, with my quick shifter for what its worth. Thx to you .

1190SX
08-20-2017, 10:37 PM
I went ahead and ordered the JT 44T on Amazon, thanks for the input. I just wanted to make sure no one noticed any issues with the hub fitment. JTR1490 is the part number right?

EBRRider
08-20-2017, 10:55 PM
Yes , thats it .

1190SX
08-22-2017, 11:22 AM
Talked to JT sprockets today and they said they don't reccomend using that sprocket on your bike because "it will eat up the hub". And "void the warranty on the sprocket". Not sure why it will damage the hub, but ok. They didn't really give me a good answer. Any mechanical engineers on here that can tell me if there is any reason not to use the JT sprocket?

EBRRider
08-22-2017, 12:20 PM
No engineer here , but it makes sense that if the bolts came loose and the sprocket hit the hub.It would eat up the hub, What I did was over torqued the bolts and used lock tight on them, and I will keep a close eye on them. No problem as of yet. Thanks for sharing.

1190SX
08-22-2017, 12:45 PM
Yeah their answer seemed kind of half assed. Like the old myth about WD-40 destroying chains and making your bike explode. They didn't really say why, I asked them if the hub was adding any structural integrity or if the bolts take most of the load. My logic is that itwas simply to aid in centering the sprocket and maintaining center, not to take loading. After all the force is mainly rotational and it isn't a splined hub. Take off the bolts and it would spin.

MakingPAIN
08-22-2017, 03:30 PM
It reminds me of a hubcentric wheel spacer. If it isn't hubcentric, the spacer is not a "high" quality spacer and some people will call it down right unsafe to use in any application. If it's just centered on lug nuts, that have play in them, that's kinda dumb and not centering done by a machined part? I am no engineer but I work at a machine shop and have worked around fine tolerance parts for some time now and that's how I view it.

1190SX
08-22-2017, 04:03 PM
That's funny you mention the hubcentric spacer as my brother said the same thing. I would tend to agree regarding the hub maintaining center, but I'm not sure if it is downright unsafe.

EBRRider
08-22-2017, 04:15 PM
Still on going strong, 300 miles plus
1667 1668

1190SX
08-22-2017, 05:59 PM
Well I have one on the way, I'm not convinced it is a ticking time bomb. If someone more knowledgeable than me weighs in with some information I might change my opinion, but I believe it is simply used to maintain center on the wheel in the event the bolts did not and has no part in structural support under load.

EBRRider
08-22-2017, 06:13 PM
Even with the bolts loose there is NO play at all Nada.

1190SX
08-22-2017, 07:20 PM
That pretty much answers it for me. Thanks. No play, no problem.

Nemesis
08-23-2017, 11:40 AM
Lol @ the sprocket dramas continue!

buell-fan
08-27-2017, 06:59 PM
Just think about what you could do to lighten up the sprocket if you machined an aluminium ring that fit the hub and located the sprocket concentric. Cutting up the useless round hub center (similar to the OEM sprocket) would loose a nice percentage of it's rotating mass, freeing up horsepower and torque. It is on my list of things to do...

1190SX
08-27-2017, 07:07 PM
Sounds interesting, but I am loving this JT 44 T sprocket so far. Need a better seat for this bike for sure!

Nemesis
08-28-2017, 01:37 AM
Sounds interesting, but I am loving this JT 44 T sprocket so far. Need a better seat for this bike for sure!


Thats whats left for me to do to.

An ecm from dean and a nicer seat.

zviadi
09-24-2018, 01:58 PM
After 11000 miles:
20632064

Cooter
09-24-2018, 06:19 PM
:eek:

EBRRider
09-24-2018, 07:42 PM
After 11000 miles:
20632064

Its hard to believe that even worked !!!:wtf:

Doug Porcaro
09-25-2018, 01:32 AM
That's crazy. I'm guessing you went until it skipped and then they all sheared off? I don't see how it could possibly work like that...

zviadi
09-25-2018, 01:40 AM
I missed the moment when I had to change sprockets. For 150 miles sprockets turned into this:burnout:
Started on 4th gear without gas. So I rode 150 miles ... the chain jumped on the rear sproket with a roar. Completely erased idler:

2065

Yesterday changed the chain, sprockets, idler and rubber dampfers of cush drive. Everything ok.
Watch the chain and sprockets on this bike, change them on shedule!

Cooter
09-25-2018, 12:36 PM
That is not the whole story.

Doug Porcaro
09-26-2018, 03:14 PM
Zviadi has been such a good real world durability tester for these bikes

Cooter
09-26-2018, 08:55 PM
In Russia, The bike rides you!:rolleyes:








But the Motherland Russia is not the "real world". It exists on a plain of 12oz glasses of vodka for breakfast, beautiful women, and gangsters doing gangster things in gangster ways. Things exist in Russia that could not exist anywhere else. Bless them crazy Ruskies, but never mistake it for reality.:nono:





:nut:

zviadi
09-27-2018, 01:56 AM
Oh yeah, we have bears around, playing balalaika, drinking vodka and snack it with birches. And every house has a nuclear reactor.

Cooter
09-27-2018, 05:36 PM
I KNEW it!! Pics or it didn't happen:lol:

zviadi
09-27-2018, 11:47 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u8cTAQbsSU

My home bear respect to you.

LeesEBR
09-28-2018, 01:21 PM
Is zviadi the guy that got hit by the flying tire?

-EDIT-
This guy?
https://media.giphy.com/media/4vtqT8jduqpe8/giphy.gifhttps://media.giphy.com/media/4vtqT8jduqpe8/giphy.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtM2SDWjeP4

EBRRider
09-28-2018, 01:36 PM
Yes he is the one and only !

zviadi
09-28-2018, 03:13 PM
Yes, it's me... just unlucky...

Rb70383
12-25-2018, 10:39 PM
Some people have all the luck.


I read somewhere that it was recommended to run the chain at 27mm when running a 44T. Is this so?

EBRRider
12-26-2018, 09:15 AM
If you want to keep the longer wheel base , yes, and less air time. but most use stock length.

Cooter
12-28-2018, 12:53 PM
I think he means tension. Yes, thats within factory spec (25mm-30mm IIRC). Or as we do here in 'Murica 'About a long inch'.

EBRRider
12-28-2018, 03:02 PM
Yep ^^^ :shock:

Cooter
12-29-2018, 03:21 AM
And that was my nickname in high school:eek::wave::lol:

Rb70383
01-02-2019, 04:54 AM
'About a long inch'.

That's what she said.....

I thought the 44T required different tension. :headshake:

bjpell
04-13-2019, 08:20 AM
Describe in more detail - that incorrectly stated in the manual?

481
If you believe this picture, the distance from the bottom of the chain link to the swingarm should be 30 ± 2 mm. You leave 25 mm, less than specified in the manual.
Under these conditions, the probability of failure chain and rear sprocket is higher, because chain tensioned stronger.

Just to make sure I understand this correctly, as I plan to do my first chain check/adjustment now as I reach my first 150 miles on my bike. In this picture the chain is at 25 mm and is nowhere near 32, so that chain is too tight, assuming the person is lifting on the chain in the picture. Is this correct? I have never done this measuring before on all my previous bikes I've owned. The 1 inch is close enough rule worked fine on my 4 other bikes I've owned. Thanks for clarifying gent's!

EBRRider
04-13-2019, 08:59 AM
Just to make sure I understand this correctly, as I plan to do my first chain check/adjustment now as I reach my first 150 miles on my bike. In this picture the chain is at 25 mm and is nowhere near 32, so that chain is too tight, assuming the person is lifting on the chain in the picture. Is this correct? I have never done this measuring before on all my previous bikes I've owned. The 1 inch is close enough rule worked fine on my 4 other bikes I've owned. Thanks for clarifying gent's!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzcEPqErSNw

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTsWwC_lbyLdPgGuf-r1ibg/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0

bjpell
04-13-2019, 11:12 AM
Thanks for the links! Very helpful. My chain is WAY too loose right now lol. Saved me damaging the bike. :eek:

EBRRider
04-13-2019, 11:17 AM
Thanks for the links! Very helpful. My chain is WAY too loose right now lol. Saved me damaging the bike. :eek:

It will save ur chain slider , you should here a jet sound when decel if correctly adj.

After a while I would suggest a higher quality chain. less side flapping save chain slider and both sprockets. IMO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LAI7U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1




(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LAI7U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Cooter
04-13-2019, 06:12 PM
Ya, I keep my OE chain well within specs and now need a third slider at 8000 miles. Glad they are cheap and easy to install!