Fuel light stays on

[Barnaby Wilde]

Hi All, the low fuel light stays on permanently on my SX, has anyone else had similar?

[RV7PILOT]

Yes, mine does as well. I wrote EBR and they told me to have it repaired under warranty at my dealer. I'm going to try and bring it in tomorrow for the 620 mile maintenance. I'm at 651 and hope this isn't an issue. I don't ride it hard anyway.




Update. When I dropped mine off at the dealership, the technician told me that he's seen the wires on the sending unit come off. I'll let you know what they find.

[xenno92]

Yes, mine does as well. I wrote EBR and they told me to have it repaired under warranty at my dealer. I'm going to try and bring it in tomorrow for the 620 mile maintenance. I'm at 651 and hope this isn't an issue. I don't ride it hard an

Update. When I dropped mine off at the dealership, the technician told me that he's seen the wires on the sending unit come off. I'll let you know what they find.

How much did you pay for the 620 service? Is it possible to do some of the small stuff at home to lower cost of service? would that affect the warrenty? (nonexistant warrenty) lol

[RV7PILOT]

The service cost was $155. I told them not to worry about the fuel light as I don't use/trust the light anyway. The only reason I did the service at all was to insure that the warranty remained valid. With the uncertainty of EBR .............. Sad too, this is the best bike I've ever owned.

[RV7PILOT]

I bought the service manual to check into the low fuel light issue. I can't find the sending unit on any of the drawings. Does anyone know where the fuel low level sending unit is located?

[Hughlysses]

If it's like previous Buells, it's on the fuel pump assembly, which bolts into the right side of the frame just forward of the swingarm.

[RV7PILOT]

If it's like previous Buells, it's on the fuel pump assembly, which bolts into the right side of the frame just forward of the swingarm.

Crap! That's what I was afraid of, thanks for the information.

[roadking1]

My low fuel light is now stuck on, too. Does anybody know if you can replace just the sensor? If so, does anybody know the part number/manufacturer. The EBR parts list only shows the entire fuel pump assembly. Thanks

[snacktoast]

My low fuel light is now stuck on, too. Does anybody know if you can replace just the sensor? If so, does anybody know the part number/manufacturer. The EBR parts list only shows the entire fuel pump assembly. Thanks

The sensor is not the problem.
The cause is is poor terminal crimps for the sensor on the pump assembly.

[RV7PILOT]

Do i have to pull the fuel pump to fix?

[snacktoast]

Do i have to pull the fuel pump to fix?

Yes, you do.

[Slowride]

Common problem - dealers were replacing the fuel pump under warranty to resolve it.

[roadking1]

But this seems like a very easy problem to fix. Correct? The only difficulty is pulling the fuel pump (a lot of steps to do that). Once it's out you only need to re-crimp the wire to the sensor, correct?

[snacktoast]

But this seems like a very easy problem to fix. Correct? The only difficulty is pulling the fuel pump (a lot of steps to do that). Once it's out you only need to re-crimp the wire to the sensor, correct?

:thumb::thumb::thumb:

[roadking1]

Thanks so much. Looks like I have my work cut out for me this weekend! One other thing: can you get the fuel pump out without that special puller device shown in the video? I would imagine you could stick some type of bolt in it and just pull on the bolt. Your thoughts?

[snacktoast]

Personally, I'm a fan of having the proper tool to do the job to prevent any damage.
That being said, you could probably rig up a bridge type of puller to span the pump opening in the frame that would allow you to thread a bolt into the pump (not sure of thread size) rather than prying on it after you get the large circlip out.
There's usually some stiction from the o-rings on the fuel pump holding it in the frame.

[roadking1]

Thanks again! Is that puller something that's generic? It seems like it would be a specialty tool.

[snacktoast]

Thanks again! Is that puller something that's generic? It seems like it would be a specialty tool.

It's a specialty tool.

[roadking1]

Wow. Is it an EBR thing or simply something you'd find at a tool type store?

[snacktoast]

EBR had a specialty tool specifically for the job.
The Buell tool for the 1125 might be similar - not sure if it's the same.

[roadking1]

Thanks!

[bthibodeaux]

Anyone done the fix yet? I mean correcting the thermistor issue without having to replace the entire pump assembly. If so, please share. Thanks.

[roadking1]

I pulled out the pump. It's Version B. I could find no crimps in any of the wires. Now what?

[bthibodeaux]

Can you post up some pics of the pump? Thanks.

[roadking1]

I already put it back in because the rubber o-rings immediately started expanding and I didn't want them to get any bigger. It looked just like the fuel pump in the EBR Shop Manual video,#169 and #170. No splices. This is very different than the fuel pumps shown in line for the Buell 1125s. I did wiggle the wires on the sensor a bit, maybe that will solve the problem. I doubt it, though.

[bthibodeaux]

I already put it back in because the rubber o-rings immediately started expanding and I didn't want them to get any bigger. It looked just like the fuel pump in the EBR Shop Manual video,#169 and #170. No splices. This is very different than the fuel pumps shown in line for the Buell 1125s. I did wiggle the wires on the sensor a bit, maybe that will solve the problem. I doubt it, though.

OK, were you able to determine which component was the thermistor? I am hoping we can find a suitable replacement. Also, if you can describe what you needed to do to get the room to remove the pump this would be a big help. Thanks.

[snacktoast]

The troublesome pumps that had poor terminal crimps had pinkish/red connectors for all of the wires coming from the float itself.

[roadking1]

I needed to remove the swingarm. Not really a difficult task but it requires a special 22 mm hex bit. I couldn't find one anywhere but the dealer kindly let me borrow a special EBR socket type bit made just for that. You first remove the tire, unbolt the shock, unplug the two connectors on the swingarm, loosen the crimp bolt and unscrew the swingarm axle (it's just one sided). You then need to remove the large snap ring (small snap ring pliers wont work, you need big ones). After you have removed that, you need the special fuel pump puller that EBR makes to slowly the pump from the frame (of course you first have to drain all fuel). Honestly, if you have the right tools the whole job won't take more than thirty minutes.

I'll try to take a picture of the actual part with the float attached. There was a number on it. There were no crimps, however. Just two small gauge black wires that went down to the base of the pump and into a grommet to exit the pump along with two or three other wires.

[snacktoast]

I needed to remove the swingarm. Not really a difficult task but it requires a special 22 mm hex bit. I couldn't find one anywhere but the dealer kindly let me borrow a special EBR socket type bit made just for that. You first remove the tire, unbolt the shock, unplug the two connectors on the swingarm, loosen the crimp bolt and unscrew the swingarm axle (it's just one sided). You then need to remove the large snap ring (small snap ring pliers wont work, you need big ones). After you have removed that, you need the special fuel pump puller that EBR makes to slowly the pump from the frame (of course you first have to drain all fuel). Honestly, if you have the right tools the whole job won't take more than thirty minutes.

I'll try to take a picture of the actual part with the float attached. There was a number on it. There were no crimps, however. Just two small gauge black wires that went down to the base of the pump and into a grommet to exit the pump along with two or three other wires.

FYI, this hex bit that you speak of should be the same one that also fits the front axle and is found is the tool kit in your tail section.

[roadking1]

Really? Wow, I never thought to look there! Man, I wasted hours looking around for one. Thanks.

[roadking1]

If it's not the fuel pump sensor itself, would it be possible for a loose wire/bad connection somewhere in the harness to cause the low fuel light to stay on? It seems to me that, if anything, a loose wire would cause the low fuel light not to activate even if there was a proper low fuel signal. Any thoughts?

[bthibodeaux]

I needed to remove the swingarm. Not really a difficult task but it requires a special 22 mm hex bit. I couldn't find one anywhere but the dealer kindly let me borrow a special EBR socket type bit made just for that. You first remove the tire, unbolt the shock, unplug the two connectors on the swingarm, loosen the crimp bolt and unscrew the swingarm axle (it's just one sided). You then need to remove the large snap ring (small snap ring pliers wont work, you need big ones). After you have removed that, you need the special fuel pump puller that EBR makes to slowly the pump from the frame (of course you first have to drain all fuel). Honestly, if you have the right tools the whole job won't take more than thirty minutes.

I'll try to take a picture of the actual part with the float attached. There was a number on it. There were no crimps, however. Just two small gauge black wires that went down to the base of the pump and into a grommet to exit the pump along with two or three other wires.

Thanks for the info. Any progress?

[roadking1]

You know, I just put it back together. As I said, I was worried about the o rings expanding to point where I wouldn't be able to put the pump back in so I reassembled it before taking any pictures. I would imagine that once we know who supplied the pump, we could contact them and ask for the details on the sensor (it's just a tiny piece with a float and two wires), and order a new sensor. It would be an extremely fix -- just splice it in. Who knows, it could be a defective float that filled with fuel and no longer floats. That would be an even easier fix. It just slides on to a short shaft with a plastic circlip on top.

[Hughlysses]

If it's the same as a Buell XB axle (which IIRC is also 22mm), you can "invert" a common 11/16" spark plug socket wrench (see below) and use it with a 1/2" extension and ratchet.

423

You insert your 1/2" extension into the "spark plug" end of the socket and stick the hex into the axle (or in your case, the swingarm axle). It actually works better than the factory tool as it's easier to keep in place in the axle.

[bthibodeaux]

You know, I just put it back together. As I said, I was worried about the o rings expanding to point where I wouldn't be able to put the pump back in so I reassembled it before taking any pictures. I would imagine that once we know who supplied the pump, we could contact them and ask for the details on the sensor (it's just a tiny piece with a float and two wires), and order a new sensor. It would be an extremely fix -- just splice it in. Who knows, it could be a defective float that filled with fuel and no longer floats. That would be an even easier fix. It just slides on to a short shaft with a plastic circlip on top.

Interesting that an actual float is used vs. a thermistor in an application with the fuel pump mounting angle this bike has. Maybe a test with the pump submerged in a container of fuel, held at the approximate mounting angle, and the float wire plug terminals connected to the bike wiring harness via jumper wires would be worthwhile.

[roadking1]

Thanks to both of you. With regard to the float on the pump, I didn't get a chance to test it since I had to put it back quickly on account of the o rings expanding. It would be easy, though. You could even just manually hold the float up and see if the light goes off. Anyway, does anyone know who made the pump? I would imagine that they would have spare float units/floats. Again, it's just one little two wire piece attaches to the pump assembly. To me, it's not worth buying a whole new pump at $625.

[Hughlysses]

It might be worth a call to Al Lighton at American Sport Bike. This sounds like the same arrangement on the Buell 1125 and ASB sells a replacement float switch that can be used on the 1125 pump unit. I wouldn't be surprised if it would work on the 1190.

[roadking1]

Thanks so much. Will do!

[roadking1]

They don't have it. The pump on the 1125 is quite different than the one on the 1190. Both pumps are also apparently made by Buell out of various components. There is not a separate company supplying the entire unit. It would be great to get a hold one of the technicians/engineers at EBR to see if they could shed light on where the components of the pump were sourced.

[snacktoast]

It would be great to get a hold one of the technicians/engineers at EBR to see if they could shed light on where the components of the pump were sourced.

I wouldn't count on anything until the receivership situation is settled, whether it's sourcing information regarding parts, or (fingers crossed) EBR being re-opened.

[roadking1]

If EBR is re-opened, do you think that all prior warranty claims would be discharged? I'm not a bankruptcy expert but understand that only a Federal bankruptcy can actually discharge debt.

[bthibodeaux]

If EBR is re-opened, do you think that all prior warranty claims would be discharged? I'm not a bankruptcy expert but understand that only a Federal bankruptcy can actually discharge debt.

Yes, avoiding liability is the primary driver for a bankruptcy.

[roadking1]

So you think all warranty claims for any bike purchased prior to the bankruptcy will be discharged? What about those going forward after the close of BK?

[Hughlysses]

Yes, avoiding liability is the primary driver for a bankruptcy.

But it's not bankruptcy, it's "receivership". It seems to me if someone buys the company intact and maintains it as EBR, they would have an incentive to make existing warranty claims good to maintain goodwill and continue the brand.

[bthibodeaux]

But it's not bankruptcy, it's "receivership". It seems to me if someone buys the company intact and maintains it as EBR, they would have an incentive to make existing warranty claims good to maintain goodwill and continue the brand.

Chapter 11 is one of 2 forms of bankruptcy. It is possible that the proposed reorganization plan could include honoring outstanding warranties, but I would not count on it.

[Hughlysses]

It is possible that the proposed reorganization plan could include honoring outstanding warranties, but I would not count on it.

I agree it's a long shot, but we can always hope.

[Neal98]

OK, So, I just bought a RX and my low fuel light was stuck on as well.... I did repair it, and figured I would share my findings. To remove the pump without the "special tool" you need a slide hammer, Harbor freight sells them for under 20 bucks I think. You will also need a long (3 inches or so) 6MM bolt. stick the bolt through the slide hammer nut, then thread into the center hole in the pump asm. Two light taps from the hammer and my pump was on the floor. Upon inspection, it looks like all the wires are fine, but a continuity test showed an open. While the connectors were all plugged in, when you pull the plastic ends, the wire just falls out of them. It's as if the crimps were too hard, causing the wire to be damn near cut in half where it's crimped at the connector.
SO... spliced wires together with heat shrink butt connectors, plugged into bike, lifted float and within 30 seconds, light off. The float is SO simple, a magnet in a foam float sliding up and down on a plastic stick, the I can't imagine in a million years that this thing could "fail"... It's just not that complicated! I will post photos when I'm home and off the work computer. Oh, and as to a previous post about the O-rings swelling, he was correct, mine did this as well... I work at an auto parts store, and hunted until I found new O-rings. Just buy 2 Mobil 1 oil filters, part number M1C-151 and snag the O-rings out of the box, they are the same as what's is in our bikes. I would not even waste time trying to get old ones back in, In my opinion, that's just asking for a leak!
Slather some grease or silicone paste around the o- rings, line up the alignment tab at the bottom and it will damn near just push back in. A light tap with a plastic hammer to seat and put that massive snap ring back in, and your ready to go! I hope this helps somebody else, and if you have any questions, just ask!

[Neal98]

11751176 Pump photos

[Sparky]

Excellent! Thank you.

[volf]

Hi guys
Just did the same thing to my RX after running all summer with the reserve light on.
Be sure to take the connections apart, otherwise you woun't notice the problem.
See attached pictures.
The job is really a PITA, and mine was further complicated by the fact that (I guess) the wrong grade of Loctite was used on the screw that holds the small plastic cover on the right hand side.
It screws into the end of the swinging arm, and it's really a stupid design in my opinion. Even when I was ever so care full, the screw snapped, there's no way you can heat the damn thing.
I made a aluminium spacer so that the plastic cover has something to butt up against, avoiding the Loctite. See pic.
Now for the really dumb thing, the bike will not start, the fuel pump runs, the starter spins but apparently no sparks. There is fuel at the injectors, I have checked the fuses and swapped the Ign. relay with the Aux. one.
When I had put the fuel pump back into the bike, attached hose, wiring and fuel, I would test if the reserve light had stopped being on.
If you just turn on the ignition it woun't disappear so I thumbed the starter a few times to start it. It wouldn't.
I the noticed that I had not screwed the main earth back into the frame.....bugger.
So I might have "fried" something? Nothing that I can see has been hot.
Any ideas please?
121212131214

Bike is a RX, but the issue is the same:nono:

The issue about the non starting has been copied to a new thread in the RX part of the forum.

[jrm816]

Hi ,new here, i have recently encountered the low fuel light issue on my 15 SX. I have pulled the pump only to find that there are no connectors on the wires to the float. If anyone could shed a little light on my issue it would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.

[buell-fan]

They were crimped too tightly by someone manufacturing the pump assembly from what I understand. "All" you need do is re-splice them (and don't crimp them so hard they fail later). This is a common issue, with a fairly easy fix. Get new pump sealing O-rings for the install.

[jrm816]

1326
Here is my fuel pump. If anyone can show me where the wire needs to be fixed, i just dont see it. Thanks.

[1190SX]

http://i68.tinypic.com/35kmsyo.png

http://i64.tinypic.com/2qcid7d.jpg

[1190SX]

http://i67.tinypic.com/1zflaxh.png

[1190SX]

I don think you have the pump style with the faulty connections..

pulled out the pump. It's Version B. I could find no crimps in any of the wires.


The troublesome pumps that had poor terminal crimps had pinkish/red connectors for all of the wires coming from the float itself.


Faulty style pump with poor connections
http://i67.tinypic.com/snnypv.jpg

[jrm816]

I still have an issue with the low fuel light staying on.

[1190SX]

I spoke to EBR about the issue a while ago, I need to have my memory refreshed as to what the solution was. I remember them talking about a connection under the seat being the issue and that one of the pins needed to be straightened or a connecter replaced. They also said in a lot of cases the malfunction is caused by the connection being disconnected and improperly reconnected, causing a pin to be bent and make intermittent connection. Cant be sure if this was in regard to the fuel level light or fuel pump operation.

[jrm816]

I haven't had the bike for 3 months and its bone stock. The fuel light issue just happened at random.

[1190SX]

Could still be a connection, its definitely not the crimp connection problem of earlier pumps, as you don't have this pump. If the pump is still out you should test the float and see if it sends operates properly. Use a multimeter and check the circuit.

[1190SX]

http://i65.tinypic.com/etgrbr.jpg

[1190SX]

Also, I want to add, this is not just an EBR problem. I don't want people thinking they are lemons or riddled with problems, I know firsthand of other brands with the SAME issue of fuel level light problems.

[jrm816]

Moving the float by hand the light tuns off but once its back in the bike the light stays on.

[1190SX]

So it is sticking when in the bike. So that either means, the fuel is not overcoming the float with buoyancy or it is sticking when at the angle in the bike.

[jrm816]

That's what I was afraid of. What's moving the shaft of the float help the float slide up and down easier on it?

[1190SX]

At this point you may need to either test it by submerging the pump at the same angle it is installed in the bike, or replace the unit.

[buell-fan]

Your float is not floating? I may have that problem too, because mine gradually quit working with higher and higher fuel levels. Mine will be coming apart soon so Ill be able to see if there is a float issue or just a connection issue as well.

[C. Dolan]

I have # 00007 on the lift with pump ready to pull tomorrow.

Manf. Jan 2015

Will post afterward.

[C. Dolan]

Personally, I'm a fan of having the proper tool to do the job to prevent any damage.
That being said, you could probably rig up a bridge type of puller to span the pump opening in the frame that would allow you to thread a bolt into the pump (not sure of thread size) rather than prying on it after you get the large circlip out.
There's usually some stiction from the o-rings on the fuel pump holding it in the frame.

6 x 1.0 mm

[C. Dolan]

Is the float supposed to have a magnetic insert ?

Mine seems to be a sloppy fit on the shaft.

I'm wondering if there is an insert missing causing low gas light.

http://ebrforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1337&thumb=1&d=1486613689

[C. Dolan]

Home made puller. 4 inch plastic pipe from Home Depot with notch cut to clear wires.

All thread shaft with 6 by 1.0 mm bolt welded on the tip.

Could have used a 1/4 inch all thread shaft if I had one, and run a 6 by 1.0 mm die on the end.

Anything with a hole to put shaft through. I used a milling hold down clamp.

Ratchet wrench for quicker work.

Much better than using a slide hammer as a puller.

http://ebrforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1339&thumb=1&d=1486613696

[C. Dolan]

Had bottom support with mini lift table and hung from the ceiling before removing

rear wheel and swing arm.

http://ebrforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1340&thumb=1&d=1486613699

http://ebrforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1341&thumb=1&d=1486614901

[1190SX]

Is the float supposed to have a magnetic insert ?

Mine seems to be a sloppy fit on the shaft.

I'm wondering if there is an insert missing causing low gas light.

http://ebrforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1337&thumb=1&d=1486613689

I believe it is supposed to be magnetic. Not sure if it has a removable insert.

[C. Dolan]

I believe it is supposed to be magnetic. Not sure if it has a removable insert.

Didn't get any magnetic feel when I stuck a round steel shaft inside.

Seemed like a very sloppy fit, as if something missing inside.

[1190SX]

Would be interesting to see if adding a magnetic insert would solve the fuel light problem.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-magnets/=16aodh1

[bigdexxx]

Did you check the pins in the wiring harness on the fuel pump side? I recently had an issue with my fuel pump and one out of the four connectors was messed up. I gently pulled out the metal and bent it back and now I'm getting a solid connection.

Also, if you need a picture of a brand new fuel pump let me know. I have a brand new fuel pump in the garage from EBR that arrived today.

[C. Dolan]

Did you check the pins in the wiring harness on the fuel pump side? I recently had an issue with my fuel pump and one out of the four connectors was messed up. I gently pulled out the metal and bent it back and now I'm getting a solid connection.

Is this deep inside the frame area under the seat ?

Have followed the loom up, but haven't seen a plug, yet

Also, if you need a picture of a brand new fuel pump let me know. I have a brand new fuel pump in the garage from EBR that arrived today.

Mostly I need a picture of the inside of the float to see if mine is missing a magnetic insert.

[bigdexxx]

When looking for the plug coming from the fuel pump, remove the seat. On the side of the + terminal of the battery, there will be a bunch of wires wrapped up. Pull that whole thing of wires away from the side of the battery. Then you will see a plug at the bottom with four wires going on, that will be the fuel pump connection. Pull the harness apart and check the pins on the fuel pump side of the harness.

Getting a picture for you now...........

[bigdexxx]

Just click on the link for the two photos:

https://goo.gl/photos/ozswJZ165pcwZpt99

One is fuel pump plug & the other is the fuel pump float. There isn't a magnetic insert

[Jerry-Built Hustler]

Carburetor-fueled bikes using manual fuel taps with reserve feature cannot be beaten for dependable reliability, the modern EFI gizmo world sucks.

[1190SX]

Carburetor-fueled bikes using manual fuel taps with reserve feature cannot be beaten for dependable reliability, the modern EFI gizmo world Cannot be beaten for performance!

Fixed it for you :wave:

[C. Dolan]

Just click on the link for the two photos:

https://goo.gl/photos/ozswJZ165pcwZpt99

One is fuel pump plug & the other is the fuel pump float. There isn't a magnetic insert

I see the pictures, but did you actually look inside the float ?

I have the later pump.

I traced the wires from pump to connector under the seat .

Have continuity from one end of the wires to the other.

Across the leads I have an open.

Does anybody have a measurement across the 2 outer connectors that go to the sensor ?

I'm guessing it would be a fairly low resistance induction coil ?

I'm reading an open circuit.

My other EBRs are 52 miles away and I won't be next to them till next weekend to compare.

[bigdexxx]

Yes, I looked inside the float and there was no metal at all.

[jrm816]

I just found out by accident that my float was not bouyant enough in gasoline to slide on the post to trigger the sensor. My float slipped out of my hand into the bucket i drained the gas into and it sank to the bottom.

[C. Dolan]

I just found out by accident that my float was not bouyant enough in gasoline to slide on the post to trigger the sensor. My float slipped out of my hand into the bucket i drained the gas into and it sank to the bottom.

I'll have to give it that test. :pray:

[1190SX]

I just found out by accident that my float was not bouyant enough in gasoline to slide on the post to trigger the sensor. My float slipped out of my hand into the bucket i drained the gas into and it sank to the bottom.

Quality control :evilgrinblack:

[Whartzie28]

I just purchaed a 14' 1190rx. At 310 miles I got the P0087 Fuel Pressure System Fault error code. From all of the forum research it looks like the connector to the fuel pump is at fault. There is not much visual damage to either of the four progs or the female end, but it seems to be the consensus that if this is replaced my issue may go away. I'm hopeing someone will have a part number. I live in Wyoming and there is not a great parts store or shop near by. Is it a pretty general part or something specific? Appreciate the help.

[Soarer]

I just purchaed a 14' 1190rx. At 310 miles I got the P0087 Fuel Pressure System Fault error code. From all of the forum research it looks like the connector to the fuel pump is at fault. There is not much visual damage to either of the four progs or the female end, but it seems to be the consensus that if this is replaced my issue may go away. I'm hopeing someone will have a part number. I live in Wyoming and there is not a great parts store or shop near by. Is it a pretty general part or something specific? Appreciate the help.


This thread is really about the fuel level sensor but check here for your answer: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/713493/806871.html?1495475889

[Twirlin]

I have the same fuel light issue. Fuel tank is full, light is on. I just had Action Powersports do a full fuel pump replacement and the light is still on. Any other thoughts on what to do?
Check terminals under seat? I've never disconnected the harness, but is there a chance it could still have a bent pin/bad connection?

[Twirlin]

Update: After having the entire fuel pump replaced, the low fuel light is still on. Thoughts/next steps anyone?

[Cooter]

Yes. Instead of just guessing and replacing expensive parts, Action Powersports could do some proper electrical diagnosis and find the problem first? Lol.

Or have them read this thread you're posting in, it has lots of good ideas of problems to look for. Such as the post thats 3 above yours that talks about a sunk float.

[Twirlin]

I dont disagree. Off it goes back to Action, with the expectation of a fix this time instead of guessing at the problem.

[buell-fan]

Check the wires by the plug next to the battery. They may have been pinched off by the battery.

[Twirlin]

Check the wires by the plug next to the battery. They may have been pinched off by the battery.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll be sure to do that.

[konarider94]

Some people are replacing the float with one of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Pool-Liquid-Water-Level-Sensor-Stainless-Steel-Float-Switch-Useful-Tool/302422518701?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Cooter]

Smart!

[Twirlin]

Back to Action for a second round. Just called to check on status, and they are ordering yet another fuel pump. I'm seriously questioning their diagnostic abilities at this point.

[Cooter]

:kickballs:That sucks man.

[Twirlin]

This just in, 5 weeks later, the fuel light is now off! The only thing they did was replace the fuel pump, again. This surprises me, but at the end of the day, I had a warranty that covered all but $50.
Both replacements would have hit me for $2,800 total. And this is why we buy warranties. Hope no one else has to go through this ordeal...

[Twirlin]

I may be cursed. Just yesterday I'm out for a short ride (30 minutes), and about 20 minutes in I'm just at cruising speed on the highway when a check engine light comes on. I pull over to check the code, and I see P0193 - Fuel Pressure Sensor System Fault.
I managed to make it home without noticing any change in ride quality (aside from a possible increase in fuel consumption after further googling).
Once I pulled into my garage, shut the bike off and the fans stopped running, I noticed a humming/buzzing sound from what appeared to be inside the tank (about where my right knee contacts the frame). This lasted for roughly 10 minutes straight, then stopped. At that point, I turned the key to run, and the check engine light was off. Could this be an intermittent issue?? Maybe....but not going to risk it with the recent fuel pump issues I've had.

Back I go to Action to sort this out with EBR.

Anyone have experience with P0193 OBDII code?