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MrSix
03-03-2018, 05:30 PM
After 1196.8 miles the front cylinder rod punched the starter at about 9000 in second... about 70 MPH and a 100ft skid. I've heard everything from "CASTROL BAD" to "thin cylinder walls" to "looks like you're running rich that could totally cause a catastrophic failure."

My money is on thin cylinder walls. I'd barely ridden the thing. I bought it used with 372 miles on it did the service at 620. I mean.. I'd ride it shifts at 10K a few rev limiter events and missed shifts. I have a zx10r at 50,000 miles and a honda 919 at 40,000 I don't miss a service and I am particular about maintenance.

I know a lot of guys here run tips and a tips tuned ecu. That was my configuration. Again I don't see the tune causing a a bottom end failure like this. I'm exploring options for repairing the engine. Is it possilbe to bore the jugs and and use thicker sleeves?

Since we're all taking guesses, I'm in the "thin cylinder walls" camp.
No pics mine are too big and I don't have a way to edit at the moment.

2016 EBR 1190 SX

Cooter
03-03-2018, 08:17 PM
Ya, it's totally not your fault at all. Must be a design flaw. Cheap POS. A Japanese bike is way better.


I'm no EBR engineer, but maybe 372 miles is too soon for full throttle, bouncing off the rev-limiter and not shifting until red-line?:kickballs:



In the meantime, use some of the $10,000 off MSRP you saved and get busy!:astrosmiley:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-EBR-1190-RX-1190RX-Erik-Buell-Racing-engine-motor-ONLY-4908-MILES-VIDEO/401399390670?hash=item5d7544a1ce:g:3lcAAOSwiOdZsGT y&vxp=mtr

MrSix
03-03-2018, 09:06 PM
followed the break in to the letter. I missed a shift twice and het rev limiter... mostlyb shifted before 7k tried to very cruisingb rpms changed oil at 620 and then I started to get it more.... but still.. it's winter here so it's kinda hard to really 'get after it" Also I'm not the only one that has experienced this issue, and I bet there will be more I've rebuilt engines. I know how to break them in.... and how to break them... apparently....

Cooter
03-03-2018, 10:45 PM
Since you're an experienced mechanic, that's good, it will help you re-build your engine quickly by yourself. IMHO a replacement engine (like the link I gave you) would be an easier option, but you know best. Waiting until after your very first oil change at just 620 miles to "get after it" was a smart move. I hope the engineers take note at the problems they designed into this bike.

Winter in Kansas? Of course you are running 10w-30 Amsoil right?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/827607/Ebr-1190-Sx.html?page=83#manual

Making the mistake of putting super thick 20w-50 weight oil in it and riding in any temps below 40* ambient could be catastrophic.
1897
I'm sure you know that. Just checking.

MrSix
03-03-2018, 11:31 PM
Castrol I don't believe in the brand hype. I have mechanical experience. I am no professional. I just prefer to do my own work. I'm still deciding what to do. yeah swapping engines is easy.. but I don't trust this engine now. Given that I've hear similar stores from like 5 people. "Oh your front rod donkey punched the starter off the case? WELCOME TO EBR. Care to part out?" I want to see if it's possible to bore the jugs and sleeve them with some thing with more metal. I've heard tha, given the compression, titanium might be a better choice for rods. but I have no idea if those are available or if they aren't what my next steps would be. So we'll see. It's not like me to give up.

gdisaac07
03-04-2018, 12:16 AM
This certainly isn’t something that I’ve heard of except on race motors. If you’re at WOT on a race track, pushing more HP than stock, and doing it without oil changes every few hours, then I could see the type of issue you described occurring. However, under normal operation, this shouldn’t occur.

A ton of people on here have raced the bike or modified it. We’re happy to help you out. If you’d like meaningful help, there are a few things you should provide:

- Accurate, honest descriptions of how you’re riding the bike. Maybe your Kawasaki needs to be be ridden one way and the EBR another.
- Pictures of the damage
- Complete list of modifications to the motorcycle
- Complete list of lubricants and processes you used to change them
- Maintenance completed (detailed list)

Take your time to compile this information and come back when you’ve done it. It’ll provide a great place for us to give you advice.

As a friendly hint, it’s probably in poor taste to come through a forum dedicated to people who love these bikes and lead off with ****ting all over them. More tact will go a long way to getting help. Be factual and detailed and ask your question. If someone came through and shat on your favorite car brand, then asked for help, how would you feel? Keep that in mind.

MrSix
03-04-2018, 01:02 PM
Completely honest description of my riding style with the EBR:
First off let me say that I was super jazzed about getting this bike. A good friend of my who is in this forum has had two EBRs one met with and unfortunate lowside, he'd put about 10,000 miles on it before the wreck. The second, we went an picked up in WI and stopped by the EBR factory while we were there last summer. With the miles stacking up on both my other bikes and all of my motorcycling experience with I-4 engines I wanted to try something different. I really liked the idea of supporting EBR albeit too late.
I found this bike, a 2016 1190SX used with 372 miles. I downloaded the manuals and contacted EBRtech for exploded diagrams because I knew I'd be working on it myself. I don't let other people spin wrenches on my bike period. I research, take advice from several sources and decide on a course of action that makes the most sense to me. My friend with the EBR being the exception here. He's helped me rebuild forks for my ZX10R and he showed me around my EBR after we retrieved it from Big Bend WI a few weeks back.

The first ride I took on it was in sleet, through the parking lot to the truck we were hauling it in. The traction control was set at like... 10.
I got it home and it was pretty cold 20ish degrees... and I took it for a ride to the gas station and back. My other bikes have reversed shift pattern so I had to think about my shifting, it wasn't exactly in the muscle memory so there were a few times where I downshfited where I should have up shifted.

The weather was still cold but I'd ride it back and forth to work on days that were around 25-40 degrees. I kept the bike below 7-8k RPMs shifting while I was below the 620 service mark. I'd cruise at 5 or 6 4 grand seemed "luggy" to me so I avoided it. Speaking of lugging There were a few start offs in second, and getting used to a different clutch where the RPMS were a bit lower than they should have been. There was one ride with friends that was more aggressive, still shifting at 7 or 8 grand but riding fast, 80 -120 MPH no wheelies no red line no WOT.

The day came for the first maintenance. I've looked over the manual which states 3.2 QT should be added when changing the oil and filter.
My friend came over to hang out while I did this, He also brought an ECU that was tuned for exhaust tips. I took the bike for a short ride to warm up the oil and returned to my garage. I drained the oil from the primary drain on the side stand and removed the filter. I drained the oil from the clutch side, tipping the bike to the right until it was drained. I replaced the filter with a K&N filter and I used castrol 20w-50 4T synthetic. After poruing in 3 QTs I started the bike and let it run until the low oil light went off. Then I shut it down and we added more. My friend watched the oil level, we got it close to the top...for a total of 3.5 QT added. I don't ride a lot in cold weather. My bike is garage kept, heated when I'm in it, and i always let the engine warm up before putting it in gear and going.

Beyond that I am gentle with my bike for other reasons: I don't know how the engine makes power. I am unfamiliar with it. It's best that I take it easy until I know it. Cold sandy roads, cold tires. I'm not taking a chance with a new bike. I made that mistake in the past, I'll be damned if I do it again.

After changing the oil my friend was showing me around the bike, how to remove the front wheel, and the air box cover.. we took off the air box cover, and then unlatched the air box top, we checked the air filter, and I decided to remove the compression solenoid, and install his ECU that is tuned for exhaust tips.

The weather has been icy so the bike was parked for a week or so, the first nice day we had I took it out on some nice county roads with a friend and we got after it. shifting at 9 or 10 grand rev matching shifting, I had it up to 137 in 5th or sixth.but with out a windscreen it was ****ing brutal. My arms were cramping. I've only seen sixth gear once or twice.and WOT once. I'm generally in second on surface streets and third or fourth cruising on the highway.

I'd commute, even on cold days, but those commutes were gentle. On nice days I'd ride with some hooligan friends... they wheelie a lot and give me **** because I don't. I get **** because I'm taking it easy on my bike. Because honestly I like things to last, and I know, that's up to me.

Modifications to the motorcycle:
exhaust tips with ECU tuned for tips
compression solenoid delete.

Oil used: Castrol 4t synthetic 20w-50
Filter used: K&N
Coolant used to top off: Peak Global premixed
I was attempting to post for my computer but I'm not able to reach the site I am however able to reach it on my phone when I'm not connected to my wireless.
I would post pictures but I'm unable to find the upload on the mobile site. I will upload pictures as soon as whatever firewall or issues with the site have been resolved

GAC
03-04-2018, 01:04 PM
I saw this post in FB.
A severe bummer.
Does anyone know, not speculate, if the jugs are the same as the 1125?
Oh, if we wanted a Jap bike we would have a soulless bike. That **** doesn’t help.
Good luck man.

MrSix
03-04-2018, 01:45 PM
I saw this post in FB.
A severe bummer.
Does anyone know, not speculate, if the jugs are the same as the 1125?
Oh, if we wanted a Jap bike we would have a soulless bike. That **** doesn’t help.
Good luck man.

Lol I love my souless bikes. And I'll bring this one back one way or another. Whether its my fault, the PO, or design flaw, doesn't matter. I'll fix it. I'll know more on Monday. I'll post back with my results at the end of this adventure.
Thanks for the well wishes and my apologies to those with ruffled feathers.

EBRRider
03-04-2018, 03:14 PM
Wish you the best , We are all interested in What caused your motor to blow, so that we can avoid at all cost, on our no warranty bikes. Whether its your fault, the PO, or design flaw.

MakingPAIN
03-04-2018, 03:15 PM
Yeah let us know how it goes. And if your find a exact reason for failure.

I beat on my bike pretty good. But everything is maintained to the t, and I only run fluids and parts that are specified by EBR. Amsoil is the best anyways why change it. I run it up to 10 grand every couple stop lights. And race anything that’s worth the ticket and bragging rights. Just spanked a RC51 last night. Twice. Lol

good luck on your venture and if you split the case to rebuild post some pictures of the carnage.

Cooter
03-04-2018, 06:04 PM
I could't agree more. A catastrophic failure like you had deserves some attention since it is such an extreme rarity to happen (at least to be reported on any of these EBR or Buell forums). One, I believe(?) and he was modded and "racing" on a circuit competitively.

I don't do the facebook so since you know "like 5 people" with the same catastrophic issue you should direct them to this thread so we all can benefit from the brain-trust and see if this is an issue that needs to be solved, or if it's just an anomaly.

I also ride my SX very hard, almost 6000 miles and it is maintained more than the manual schedule. It is possible to ride hard, and ride smooth. Maybe that's the difference?

If you are interested in titanium rods, there is an RS engine on e-bay for sale as well. They have titanium rods. That is a legitimate race engine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBR-Buell-Erik-Buell-Racing-1190RS-Motor/202132109784?hash=item2f100339d8:g:YcsAAOSwVA5aHWx a&vxp=mtr

A bigger investment upfront will certainly save you in the future. Especially how you ride.

gdisaac07
03-04-2018, 06:37 PM
If you are interested in titanium rods, there is an RS engine on e-bay for sale as well. They have titanium rods. That is a legitimate race engine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBR-Buell-Erik-Buell-Racing-1190RS-Motor/202132109784?hash=item2f100339d8:g:YcsAAOSwVA5aHWx a&vxp=mtr

A bigger investment upfront will certainly save you in the future. Especially how you ride.

A +1 on this one. The RS engine is incredible, but is missing some of the innovations that went into the RX motor, so it makes less power. However, it requires modification in the RX/SX. Namely you're going to need to dyno tune it.

A possible solution for you, and for the rest of the board who want to race these bikes, is to contact CP Carillo (http://www.cp-carrillo.com/) and see if they'd be willing to scan/duplicate the existing RX/SX piston/rod/crank/sleeve in titanium or a higher quality steel for you. I'd consider purchasing that upgrade package for a rebuild in the future. For reference, CP Carillo is the one that made the original RS titanium rods (which are not a direct drop-in to the RX/SX motor).

MrSix
03-04-2018, 06:55 PM
Wish you the best , We are all interested in What caused your motor to blow, so that we can avoid at all cost, on our no warranty bikes. Whether its your fault, the PO, or design flaw.

Much appricated, brother. I will keep the group appraised of developments.

golfman1966
03-04-2018, 07:03 PM
Regardless, let the forum know what you decide to do. If you elect to bail on the bike and sell, I know I'd be an interested buyer as I'll be in Tulsa for quite some time and would like a project bike to pass the time

MrSix
03-05-2018, 02:37 PM
1903
The scene of the crime.
1904
The best shot I could get of the damage done. I'm still waiting to see what my options are with the dealership. We'll see. When I know more, I'll disassemble the bike and take better pictures.

Cooter
03-05-2018, 03:29 PM
You’re asking the dealership to warranty that??

What warranty did you buy?

konarider94
03-07-2018, 11:01 AM
Thats a bummer!

Did you ever pull the oil sump cover to clean it out for you oil changes? I wonder what is in there right now. It sounds like the engine locked up as soon as it failed so I doubt there is a ton of aftermath debris in it.

MrSix
03-07-2018, 11:35 AM
Thats a bummer!

Did you ever pull the oil sump cover to clean it out for you oil changes? I wonder what is in there right now. It sounds like the engine locked up as soon as it failed so I doubt there is a ton of aftermath debris in it.
Slowly getting her torn apart. I'll know more this weekend.
1906

Nemesis
03-07-2018, 09:34 PM
That is terribly sad, sorry to hear it mrsix.

And for those beating on jap bikes i gave my hayabusa hell for ten odd years and it never missed a beat once. If this happened to me i'd never ride my ebr again and let it burn. Arent these engines broken in on dynos anyway before you pick them up?

MrSix
03-13-2018, 09:06 AM
That is terribly sad, sorry to hear it mrsix.

And for those beating on jap bikes i gave my hayabusa hell for ten odd years and it never missed a beat once. If this happened to me i'd never ride my ebr again and let it burn. Arent these engines broken in on dynos anyway before you pick them up?
Well the upside is I'll know how to take the bike apart and put it back together. Speaking of which, I finally got around to tearing down the bike so I could take better pictures of the damage.

191219131914

MrSix
04-04-2018, 03:11 PM
Things worked out my bike was barely under warranty EBR and Liquid Asset Partners helped me out by sending me a 0 mile crated engine. "Ghost" is back together and I've been riding her easy daily.
1952
1953
1954

Now as to the failure: I purchased the bike with 372 miles on it. I did the oil change at 620 miles. I caught the oil in an empty catch pan and set it aside. When the failure happened, I had to clean and arrange my garage to accommodate disassembly which means I dumped that catch pan into a 1.6 gallon jug. The catch pan,which had only the EBR 620 mile oil and maybe some fork oil from my zx10r nearly filled that jug, conservatively I'd say 4.5 quarts.
Someone over filled the oil And I think the reason for that may be found in the manual itself. I know there is a thread here about checking the oil.
1955
If you read it, the "cold engine check" should be done with the engine warm. All of the steps of the cold engine check lead you to do the hot engine check. I will go so far as to say if you are filling your oil on the side stand to near the top, or even the middle of the sight glass, you are running the risk of damaging your baby. I don't know much about dry sump motors, but from what I've read on the intert00bs over filling them is bad, and the only way to get an accurate reading is with a hot oil check.

I think overfilling the oil is a far more likely cause of rod failure than thin cylinder walls. I am no expert. I am new to EBR. I'm learning and I'm doing my damnest to do right by this bike.

Currently my bike has about 230 miles on the engine. After I got the bike back together, I ran the engine warm, added a quart of oil, raising the level to about 1/4 the way up the sight glass. I rode around a bit and found myself obessing over the sight glass. I re-read the section on checking the oil. I performed each step to the letter. I found that the oil level was way too high on the hot check and I had to drain some out.

Try it, follow the instructions to the letter and see where your oil level is on the hot check.

MakingPAIN
04-04-2018, 03:50 PM
That’s great news that they helped out.. that would suck to be left in the dark. Like most ebr issues lol

MrSix
04-04-2018, 04:14 PM
That’s great news that they helped out.. that would suck to be left in the dark. Like most ebr issues lol

I got ****ing lucky. Upside: I know how to take my bike apart and put it back together.

buell-fan
04-04-2018, 05:35 PM
Put in 3.3 quarts, per the manual, and call it good. Some people put in 3.5 quarts who race. Either way, immediately warm it and do a hot oil level check on the sight glass, then mark the full level with something that won't rub off. Then you'll always know where full is and there won't be an issue.

MrSix
04-04-2018, 06:07 PM
Put in 3.3 quarts, per the manual, and call it good. Some people put in 3.5 quarts who race. Either way, immediately warm it and do a hot oil level check on the sight glass, then mark the full level with something that won't rub off. Then you'll always know where full is and there won't be an issue.

:thumb: hell yeah.

MakingPAIN
04-04-2018, 06:27 PM
What are you doing with the old engine?

MrSix
04-05-2018, 08:44 AM
What are you doing with the old engine?
lol yeah... when I first posted about the failure on FB hooo boy did I get hit with gulls. My plan is to tear it down, assess the damage and rebuild. I'd thought about doing the LASLEEVE Resleeve thing but I'm not sure how that works given these cylinders aren't sleeved as I understand sleeveing. the jug, jacket and cylinder are all aluminum and the cylinder wall has a coating
of NI SI C (Nickle Silicon Carbon) plated on. When I think sleeving, I think of a machine shop pressing out old cylinders and then pressing in new ones. I'd have to talk to them

It's a chance to learn a lot about these engines. That's worth more than the money I'd get for parts.

d_adams
04-05-2018, 09:44 AM
I'd like to know for sure that you actually have the correct ecm for the exhaust. Look on the display and scroll through until you find the firmware version. Post a pic of it to satisfy my curiosity. I had someone messaging me the other day about a driveability problem, turns out it had the incorrect calibration loaded on a programmable ecm and the bike would die after idling for about 30 seconds. Nobody knew why until I asked that same question, what cal does it have on the ecm?

MrSix
04-05-2018, 10:40 AM
I'd like to know for sure that you actually have the correct ecm for the exhaust. Look on the display and scroll through until you find the firmware version. Post a pic of it to satisfy my curiosity. I had someone messaging me the other day about a driveability problem, turns out it had the incorrect calibration loaded on a programmable ecm and the bike would die after idling for about 30 seconds. Nobody knew why until I asked that same question, what cal does it have on the ecm?

It's the IDS ECM tuned for tips I'll post a pic of it later today and the Firmware version.

MrSix
04-05-2018, 10:50 PM
19581959

gdisaac07
04-06-2018, 11:02 AM
lol yeah... when I first posted about the failure on FB hooo boy did I get hit with gulls. My plan is to tear it down, assess the damage and rebuild. I'd thought about doing the LASLEEVE Resleeve thing but I'm not sure how that works given these cylinders aren't sleeved as I understand sleeveing. the jug, jacket and cylinder are all aluminum and the cylinder wall has a coating
of NI SI C (Nickle Silicon Carbon) plated on. When I think sleeving, I think of a machine shop pressing out old cylinders and then pressing in new ones. I'd have to talk to them

It's a chance to learn a lot about these engines. That's worth more than the money I'd get for parts.

You are correct. The cylinders have no liner and are one complete piece. However, they didn't choose super high quality aluminum for the cylinders, and didn't sleeve them. This has gains in thermal efficiency, but is inferior for strength, especially at the spigot (the bottom part of the cylinder where it interfaces with the bottom end of the engine). These cracks develop and radiate up, where they cause the piston to grab and the rod to break.

What LA Sleeve is going to do is mill out the existing cylinders, add in the spun-cast ductile iron sleeves, port everything, and then give it back. This newly sleeved cylinder will be much, much stronger, if a small amount less efficient for heat. It also means that compression can be increased in the future with a new piston and rod combination, as the big bore kit will be (the RS runs at 13.6:1, the RX at 13.4:1).

Keep in mind that LA Sleeve already has cylinders in-house that have been re-sleeved and tested.

MrSix
04-06-2018, 11:15 AM
You are correct. The cylinders have no liner and are one complete piece. However, they didn't choose super high quality aluminum for the cylinders, and didn't sleeve them. This has gains in thermal efficiency, but is inferior for strength, especially at the spigot (the bottom part of the cylinder where it interfaces with the bottom end of the engine). These cracks develop and radiate up, where they cause the piston to grab and the rod to break.

What LA Sleeve is going to do is mill out the existing cylinders, add in the spun-cast ductile iron sleeves, port everything, and then give it back. This newly sleeved cylinder will be much, much stronger, if a small amount less efficient for heat. It also means that compression can be increased in the future with a new piston and rod combination, as the big bore kit will be (the RS runs at 13.6:1, the RX at 13.4:1).

Keep in mind that LA Sleeve already has cylinders in-house that have been re-sleeved and tested.

Thank you for the clarification. That sounds outstanding.

Cooter
04-06-2018, 09:16 PM
Wow MrSix, that certainly took a turn for the better:pimp:. I'm happy it worked out in your favor and really impressed that EBR/LAP stepped up like that:hail:. Happy you have the skill set to pop a motor in there yourself as well.

I couldn't agree more that most peoples tendency to try and get the oil level to within a ****hair of the full mark causes many, mis-diagnosed problems. Have fun with your new baby... again.... haha.

MrSix
04-07-2018, 09:15 PM
Wow MrSix, that certainly took a turn for the better:pimp:. I'm happy it worked out in your favor and really impressed that EBR/LAP stepped up like that:hail:. Happy you have the skill set to pop a motor in there yourself as well.

I couldn't agree more that most peoples tendency to try and get the oil level to within a ****hair of the full mark causes many, mis-diagnosed problems. Have fun with your new baby... again.... haha.

Thanks! I'm glad it worked out as well. I learned a bunch about the bike. I'm really glad EBR posted all of those tech videos. Those were super helpful. Taking it apart and put it back together gave me more of an appreciation for the engineering of the bike. I wouldn't call it easy to work on. But then again, everything is hard the first time.

White SX
04-08-2018, 08:52 AM
http://ebrforum.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by gdisaac07
“What LA Sleeve is going to do is mill out the existing cylinders, add in the spun-cast ductile iron sleeves, port everything, and then give it back.”

These engines aren’t two strokes so haven’t a clue about them “porting everything”.

Don't assume that sleeving is going to be a big plus. I don’t have a cylinder in my hands to look at so just speaking generally.
If your information on the cylinder is correct about it being a one piece casting. Your taking a one piece casting and machining a minimum of 3/16 of material from the bore, how much is left? Also now have two different metals with two different expansion rates in a cylinder that wasn’t originally designed for a sleeve.
Just saying this might not be the panacea your looking for.

http://ebrforum.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by gdisaac07
“Keep in mind that LA Sleeve already has cylinders in-house that have been re-sleeved and tested.”

Any details on this testing and to what extent?

gdisaac07
04-09-2018, 10:07 AM
These engines aren’t two strokes so haven’t a clue about them “porting everything”.

This is their installation process: https://www.lasleeve.com/downloads/cylinder-sleeve-installation.pdf


Don't assume that sleeving is going to be a big plus. I don’t have a cylinder in my hands to look at so just speaking generally.
If your information on the cylinder is correct about it being a one piece casting. Your taking a one piece casting and machining a minimum of 3/16 of material from the bore, how much is left? Also now have two different metals with two different expansion rates in a cylinder that wasn’t originally designed for a sleeve.
Just saying this might not be the panacea your looking for.

LA Sleeve has a few of these cylinders in-house. Also, after further discussion, I think that a 108mm/109mm bore might achieve the same thermal efficiency as the stock 106mm as the mass of the iron will be decreased.


Any details on this testing and to what extent?

I do not have details on what was tested, however I can find out from LA Sleeve.

White SX
04-09-2018, 03:18 PM
Air cooled Two stroke sleeving Instructions.

Your thermal effficiancy statement makes no sense.

Been some time since I dealt with LA Sleeve but they didn’t do engine building or Dyno testing.

Thinking your sticking your neck out and going to be a beta tester.

Good luck!

MrSix
04-11-2018, 09:04 AM
Just because I think it's funny... I gotta tell you this: I created an unintentional throttle limiter with the top bandclamp on the front cylinder. Probably for the best. I just noticed it last night and corrected it.

zviadi
04-11-2018, 01:50 PM
Now as to the failure: I purchased the bike with 372 miles on it. I did the oil change at 620 miles. I caught the oil in an empty catch pan and set it aside. When the failure happened, I had to clean and arrange my garage to accommodate disassembly which means I dumped that catch pan into a 1.6 gallon jug. The catch pan,which had only the EBR 620 mile oil and maybe some fork oil from my zx10r nearly filled that jug, conservatively I'd say 4.5 quarts.
Someone over filled the oil And I think the reason for that may be found in the manual itself. I know there is a thread here about checking the oil.

Glad that everything ended well with the new engine.
My 2 cents.
I'm absolutely sure that it's not the oil level. I pour oil about half an inch below the top mark, the motorcycle stands on the side stand. For 3 years of owning EBR 1190RX, I never checked the oil level for hot, only cold on the side stand before start engine (I'm too lazy start the engine for this procedure).
With active driving on high revs, excess oil will fly out through the crankcase breath system (below airbox) and will flow on the left side of the engine. It's not as scary as it seems. Twice the oil level fell below the lower mark and flashing pressure lamp. Filled the required amount.
Mileage is 17300. Driving at 9000 revs or high. Use Motul 20W50, oil and oil filter change every 3125 miles. Fuel is 95 euro (analogue of american 91). Dash firmware from 2014 (two version). The first year run at negative temperatures and in snowfall (russian autumn is cold:bump:). Always warm up the engine before the fan is activated, including warm ambient temperature.

I think that the cause of engine failure is tuning and non-standard ECU. Mine is full stock.

Cooter
04-11-2018, 07:26 PM
With temps in Russia that cold you should be running 10w-30 according to the manual. 20w-50 is WAAAY to thick for "negative temperatures".

It is very important to oil level check exactly like the manual states.
The "cold check" is to simply know if it's safe to start the bike and run it until warm. The "hot check" is to tell you if there is the proper level of oil in the bike.

Even removing the oil cap (like the manual states) caused the level to change drastically!

zviadi
04-12-2018, 12:41 AM
With temps in Russia that cold you should be running 10w-30 according to the manual. 20w-50 is WAAAY to thick for "negative temperatures".


It was rarely and compelled. To change oil for the sake of one-two days of the trip I consider it impractical. For such cases, it is sufficient to warm up.
This bike is quite reliable. But I'm not lucky with lambdas and exhaust system - fifth set of lambdas for replacement and weld same time muffler and front exhaust pipe :cry:
Let's see what will happen in this season with bike and engine... I have not yet run.



Even removing the oil cap (like the manual states) caused the level to change drastically!

Never noticed this.
The oil consumption does not exceed 0,5 quart from replacement to replacement.