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View Full Version : Converting your 1190 for the track.



Cooter
02-20-2018, 02:24 PM
Looks like a couple of us are doing this and have some good ideas! Please post what you did and what you like:astrosmiley:

Disclaimer:
There's 2 major differences...
Trackdays: Fun and relaxing, less serious and less strict.
Racing: Converting to a legitimate race bike, for actual racing, is a whole different animal. If you are a legitimate racer, post pics of your winnings and trophies and I'd like to hear your input:nut:

I have an SX and want to convert it, complete with RX fairings (Hotbodies), but still be able to swap back to the SX bars/fairings and have the machine I bought for longer rides as well.

I would recommend leaving the engine as stock as possible. No one 'wins' a track day, there are no trophies, but you can certainly 'lose' one. IMO, a stock engine will be the most dependable, especially if you're gonna beat on it and who cares about the lap time, as long as its faster than your last one:burnout:

My list of upgrades, in no particular order:

1) Gearing. Easily done, and changed with rear sprockets. I have gone up to 44 teeth in the rear with the stock chain. The stock ECM will only calibrate to 41 so you'll get a ghost double 4th (or 5th) gear indicator, but the speedo is still accurate because it reads off the rear wheel.
If you want IDS has ECM's that will work with any gearing you specify, or they can modify yours.
JD Sprockets has steel ones, Vortex has aluminum ones. I hear theres a guy on facebook with rears and a cool interchangeable front unit as well.

2) A quick shifter. Dynojet 4-104 linear push switch. Buelltooth.com offers some and GP shift as well! The early bikes ('14-early '15) need the ECM to be sent to EBR for the update to enable this function. The later bikes already have it enabled. It is as simple as mounting the switch, and wiring to the kickstand plug (ground and center signal wire). Boom, best mod ever.

3) Tires. Shinkos may be ok to get to work, but not for the track. IMO, I get the softest DOT tires I can afford to replace. Slicks are great, and confidence inspiring, but come with the penalty of terrible wet/damp/cold traction. Once again, you aren't racing. A cold wet day at the track is MUCH more fun on DOT tires. I get to pass the instructors on those days as they slide around:301:
BUT, if you can afford an extra set of wheels/brakes get some slicks on that set to swap on... and its amazing!

4) Suspension. Your weight (fully geared up) and your speed, will determine the mods here. You can buy all the whiz-bang stuff at anytime, it buys adjustability and quality. IMO stock suspension will be fine for a light person at reasonable speeds.
Once you pass the point that stock suspension adjustments aren't enough, the first way to compensate is using different weights of fork oil to bring the stock adjustments back from the edge. Secondarily, better cartridges that fit in stock forks is a step up. Thirdly they'll be happy to sell you complete fork legs. Let your wallet be your guide.

5) Maintenance. You'll be spending more than you think on brake fluid, pads, tires, oil, clutch discs, chains, sprockets... Don't let that valve adjustment slack! The manuals mileage intervals for the 'commuter dude' no longer apply.

6) Protection. You WILL fall off. Of course you already have the best, latest gear to wear, so the bike needs some love too! Money spent here is insurance for expenses later.
Fork and swing arm sliders to protect the axle threads, Case sliders to protect the clutch slave, bar end plugs, and frame pucks.

7) Brakes. I use EBC 'HH' pads, but opinions abound, post what you prefer. For me, they work well on the street and haven't been an issue on the track. I'm no Mr. late-trail-braking-hero-guy either so YMMV. Flush your fluid with new DOT 4 before every trackday.

Cooter
02-20-2018, 02:34 PM
For the SX specifically, your gonna want clip-ons to replace your bars. They are easy to find (54mm) and you can choose raised options or a 7* twist or not. Personal preference. I believe Woodcraft is the OE supplier to the RX. No proof, they just look the same to me:)

The clip-ons can't be installed directly on the SX because the ignition key, lock cylinder is right in the way. Some options:

You can remove the lock cylinder and bypass the wiring (Woodcraft sell a harness for $70).
Remove the lock cylinder and make a bracket to get it out of the way. Be aware you'll lose the steering 'lock'.
You can use a RX upper triple to relocate the key ($100), but now the dash has to be relocated. You could remove the SX headlight module completely and make a little bracket for the dash. Go naked!
The RX upper fairing bracket ($400) also mounts the dash, so if you're mounting RX (or race) fairings that could be the answer.

You'll probably need shorter throttle cables and clutch line to fit the clip-ons.

gdisaac07
02-20-2018, 03:07 PM
Other upgrades that will be very useful:

Suspension


The stock Showa Big Piston Fork is pretty good, but it does leave some room for improvement. I'm currently working with my suspension guy to devise or discover a way to retrofit the BPF forks with NIX30 kits. These are the top of the line Öhlins kits and almost everyone says that they're the best you can get for your forks aftermarket.
The stock Showa shock is not good. Fortunately, it can be replaced with a highly upgraded Öhlins unit. It's actually the one used on the 1190RS and 1125 Race Bike. You can get them for $1200, but you will have to rebuild it immediately upon receiving it as the last one was manufactured in 2011 and the seals break down. The remote preload adjuster can be installed where the pillion foot peg assembly attaches to the frame.

Brakes


I installed the RX brake scoops to cool the front brake at the track. I also had to purchase the spacer.
I'll probably install EBC pads after my first couple track days

Tires


I'm going to use Dunlop Q3+ tires

Powertrain


I completely agree with Cooter that the stock motor is a good way to go. However, I added a Dean Adams exhaust, which adds 10-15hp at the wheel. This means that I had to install stiffer clutch springs to prevent slippage of the clutch. I also chose to reduce the rev limit by 500 to protect the pistons/rods. I don't need that extra little bit of grunt at the expense of my motor.
There are a lot of things that need to be safety wired for some tracks. The oil filter is already pretty good, but I wired it anyways. The top oil plug was drilled through the plastic and safety wired. I haven't figured out how to wire the magnetic plug yet.
The throttle cable is the same length on the RX and SX, but I think the routing is slightly different. When I get my clip ons, I'll test fit.
Adding an aftermarket exhaust, like the Dean Adams Designs round can, will lighten the bike and add a lot of power, but may cause you to violate the noise limit at some tracks. Also, you must add the IDS ECU (I recommend the programmable one if you're going to the track)

Bodywork


I purchased the 1190RS carbon fiber race belly pan. I have to fabricate a bracket for the front end, plus modify the pan itself to make sure it fits the SX oil cooler, the kickstand, and the Dean Adams exhaust. It's something I should be able to complete with a Dremel diamond cutting wheel and some sanding bits.
I'm going to stay naked. I'm going to put on clip-ons and be able to hot swap them at the track.
I removed the upper chain guard

Ignition


I'm going the route of the ignition cylinder delete.

Cooter
02-20-2018, 03:13 PM
For my conversion I'll need The RX (hot bodies) race kit ($900, but they have deals all the time), the RX upper triple to mount the key ($100), the upper fairing mount to mount the fairing (duh) and the dash($400). Possibly the side fairing brackets ($60), some seat foam for the RS style tail ($30), a projector headlight in case I was to ride on the street in that trim ($60), the taillight/tag relocator ($100) will still work.

Not sure what else yet

Cooter
02-20-2018, 03:27 PM
Good info on the forks, keep us posted!

My stock 1125 rear shock was different (at the reservoir) than the 1190?

I've heard that about needing the RX brake scoop before. I haven't had heating issues cracks or blueing on my rotor so maybe I'm just slow? lol. And why the heck is it so much $$??

Good point about the dB level. FWIW the APH is 105dB max on EBRriders iPhone meter.

Also a good point on safety wire. Drain plugs, oil filter, oil cap, radiator cap (you DO have water and water wetter ONLY right?), master link (if you've swapped the chain), I do my grips (dirt bike style) too. Sweat bands on the reservoirs. Anything else?

I didn't know the RX/SX cables were the same part #. Thats good info.

Post pics of the pan for sure! For track days a full belly pan isn't usually on the list, but a chain guard is? Be sure to check where your going.

The steering stops are fine. Its the steering LOCK you lose with the key cylinder delete.

gdisaac07
02-20-2018, 04:53 PM
I should know more in the next couple days about the fork parts. I'm hoping it's just a smorgasbord of take-off parts from other BPF bikes (maybe a Kawasaki bottom and a GSXR cap) plus the kit. I'll make public all the parts needed once it's done and I can confirm that it's working.

I have talked exhaustively with Öhlins about that shock. It is indeed the Öhlins race shock for the 1125. Erik Buell bought out the entire stock of BU-888 Öhlins shocks so that he could fit the RS, as he needed them for homologation of the RS to go race in WSBK and he panic purchased all of them. I purchased mine directly from EBR as the 1190RS shock, and it came with the model number of BU-8881, meaning it's the first revision of the BU-888. The 1125 is the BU-8880, but the shocks are identical, just made in a different model year. They're not ideal for the RX/SX, tbh. The compression and dampening adjuster knobs are on the inside of the bike, not facing out, so it'll be tricky to adjust. Also, the brake line and cabling to the back of the SX/RX run in the exact space where the side can is. But it will transform the bike, vs the simple shock that comes stock.

I'm getting the scoops so I can avoid fade more than anything. The ZTL is great for the street, but it will find its limits on hard, hard track riding. There is a reason that the WSBK riders went to the traditional double disk setup at the end of their run. But unless you're a complete stud/racer, you probably won't find that limit. Also, I bought them both for $90 combined.

RIGHT! It's on the list of things to change, but it's too cold right now to be able to comfortably have water/wetter in the coolant system. I say this on a 60 degree day in Boston, but still. I'll change it out a few days before. I'm also going to safety wire the scoops and the belly pan, just for comfort. Also, need to wire the goPro.

I'll bring it with, but if I can ditch the chain guard, I'm going to. I plan to get to tech early on day one.

Awesome! Then I don't have to make anything, just delete.

gdisaac07
03-27-2018, 07:30 PM
Some updates:

I decided that the difference between removing the ignition, all the lights, swapping bars, etc is not that far removed from just going whole hog and installing a full set of track fairings. Sooooo I bought a set of left and right fairing brackets, the RX upper triple, I'm purchasing a full set of fiberglass fairings (with the SBK tail), and all I need now is the front fairing bracket (no one happens to have an extra that they're selling do they???).

I added an Accossato two button starter on the right hand side. I'll hopefully get to install it and ensure that the wiring is all correct in the next couple weeks. I'm working on a left hand 5 button solution that interfaces with the buttons on the display so I can change the traction control on the fly, but it requires soldering to the buttons in the display directly.

I bought a SpeedAngle APEX lap timer

I put SBS Dual Sinter brake pads on the front (these seem to be the most highly regarded pads with the longest life and most stopping power, but pricey and rare)

I'm seriously considering re-sleeving my cylinders. Still trying to work out the absolute best solution, but stay tuned.

d_adams
03-28-2018, 06:04 AM
Pretty sure the TC can only be changed while at a full/complete stop. I'll ask for clarification if you wish, but that was my understanding on it.

d_adams
03-28-2018, 07:23 AM
Full stop, change from the dash only per Tim at IDS.

gdisaac07
03-28-2018, 09:09 AM
Full stop, change from the dash only per Tim at IDS.

Yup I know. HED set it so that the buttons will only respond under 3mph. However, I don't plan on letting the HED software stay stock.

cvonesch
05-20-2018, 09:05 PM
Hey @gdisaac07, did you ever get your hands on that front fairing bracket you were looking for? I'm looking for one as well, have the fairings and all but have no idea what to do with the front end after I removed the headlight. Let me know if you found a bracket or if you came up with another solution. Thanks!

Cooter
05-21-2018, 11:43 AM
You can get it from the dealer and LAP has also them (for msrp $400), so they are available. They hold the dash and front fairing.

gdisaac07
05-21-2018, 03:31 PM
I ended up finding one in a very unlikely place, and I'll be receiving it on Thursday. Otherwise, it's an LAP item.

And while I'm here, this is where the bike is at so far:

1985

cvonesch
05-22-2018, 09:41 AM
Nice! This one is mine. Oh, and apparently I am an idiot, I reached out to LAP/EBR, I don't need a fairing stay, apparently the headlight pops out with like 4 screws and the fairing stay remains.
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