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View Full Version : Valve Adjustment Finally in the Works



MCase
11-03-2017, 08:43 PM
Took a little work but the SX is finally getting the needed 6200 mile valve adjustment. I bought the pack of shims the St. Louis HD. Pretty killer deal for all those shims when you can buy the same pack from the EBR store for almost $700 more than what the HD shop had. I did order the valve cover gaskets, inner and outer, from the EBR store (link below if someone needs it). From there I found a HD dealer down in Panama City, FL that is going to do the work for me. The owner has a true love for EBR and seemed pretty excited to work on my baby. I will let ya'll know how it goes from there.

http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/

Cooter
11-27-2017, 09:38 PM
Soooo....... How'd it go from there?

MCase
11-28-2017, 06:13 PM
Soooo....... How'd it go from there?

It went really good...with some minor setbacks. The bike was picked up and the service was done over the next two days. The only setback was that, unbeknownst to me, the clamps that are utilized on the radiator hoses are one time use clamps. They improvised and used some screw-type band clamps which apparently worked out when they did the test ride. The bike was delivered back to me no issues. Total price on the service was $450 (blew my mind on how cheap it was). I took it for a ride and it ran like the champ it is.

After letting the bike cool outside post-ride, I noticed a puddle of liquid underneath. It was radiator fluid coming from one of the main hoses on the right side of the bike. Talked to the tech who worked my bike. He told me what was going on and I immediately ordered replacement clamps from EBR. Sadly, the primary clamp that I need is on back-order.

Overall, very little issues and I am plenty satisfied with the work. Thanks for asking Cooter.

EBRRider
11-28-2017, 06:29 PM
WOW! that is cheap over here I understand it will cost $600. at Chris Rivas V-Twin Central California's best American V-Twin service center.

d_adams
11-28-2017, 08:44 PM
Oetiker clamps for stock, they're relatively cheap. If you're careful, they can be re-used at least once.

Cooter
11-29-2017, 01:09 AM
That IS cheap! Glad it worked out for ya:)

Thanks Dean for the heads up, I'll add those to the EBR shelf JIC :)

Doosh
11-29-2017, 03:21 PM
Honestly, a good worm drive hose clamp is much better than the one-time-use OEM clamps that came on the bike. In race builds we use them exclusively and have ZERO issues with them.

My other curiosity is why you needed one at all. IIRC, I pull the frame without touching the cooling system.

MCase
11-29-2017, 04:57 PM
Honestly, a good worm drive hose clamp is much better than the one-time-use OEM clamps that came on the bike. In race builds we use them exclusively and have ZERO issues with them.

My other curiosity is why you needed one at all. IIRC, I pull the frame without touching the cooling system.

I couldn't tell ya. The shop came and picked up the bike, tore it apart to do the valve adjustment, put it back together. They said they removed the radiator in order to do it so they also flushed all the fluid and put in the HD orange.

LeesEBR
11-29-2017, 10:48 PM
Where'd that pic go of the frame-off? I need to make that engine stand...

EBRRider
11-29-2017, 10:53 PM
Where'd that pic go of the frame-off? I need to make that engine stand...

This is Deans pic.


1839
(http://ebrforum.com/showthread.php?875-For-those-that-do-your-own-valve-adjustment/page6)

LeesEBR
11-29-2017, 11:00 PM
This is Deans pic.
Yeah that...I'm gonna make that...except I'm gonna try to leave the clutch master connected...hate bleeding hydraulic systems.

EBRRider
11-30-2017, 09:25 AM
Yeah that...I'm gonna make that...except I'm gonna try to leave the clutch master connected...hate bleeding hydraulic systems.

Have you tried these ? they are fast and easy when bleeding

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=speed+bleeders&_osacat=6028&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.Xbuell+spe ed+bleeders.TRS1&_nkw=buell+speed+bleeders&_sacat=6028

Cooter
11-30-2017, 07:14 PM
I think he means the actual process is hard for him. Bleeding through the slave or caliper only on a M/C can be a PITA. The weird angle of the master likes to keep air up top and the small master is very sensitive to any tiny bubbles. A vacuum bleeder helps a lot and I usually have to rotate it on the bars to get the air out, especially if it went dry.

LeesEBR
11-30-2017, 09:10 PM
I can do it just fine, I just hate doing it if I don't have to.

Those speed bleeders look interesting, I achieve the same effect by just sticking a hose in an old bottle of fluid and pumping the hell out of the system to flush it.

Cooter
11-30-2017, 09:53 PM
I didn't mean to insinuate that you couldn't do it, sorry :smirk:. Just gave some tips to make it a 2 minute job. I flush brake fluid in all my vehicle annually. IMO it's one of the most overlooked fluids, and ironically the most important. It only boils when you positively, absolutely need it to work!:cry:

EBRRider
11-30-2017, 10:50 PM
Any thing to help the PITA task, I just put hard lines on a FZ10 and the speed bleeders did speed the process. Neat sh*t. :smirk:
Also just did my EBR clutch slave. :smirk: When you have your clutch cover off DONT pump your clutch lever, piston will shoot across the room , Dont ask how I know. LOL

Kid Thunder
12-01-2017, 01:01 AM
I've been using Speed Bleeder are great! All you have to do is crack a little then put the hose on & squeeze the hell out of it. Make sure the hose end is in something. You don't have to worry that it is in the fluid. You can put it into the oil drain pan. Makes no difference. Makes changing fluid FUN. Only problem is if the system is completely dry. Then they don't work so keep the stock bleeders to get a rough fill they swap over to Speed Bleeder.

LeesEBR
12-01-2017, 10:12 AM
When you have your clutch cover off DONT pump your clutch lever, piston will shoot across the room , Dont ask how I know. LOL
Didn't even think about that, thanks! I plan to do the clutch springs at some point soon. Reviews are that this clutch pull is heavy...it's lighter than my XB or Blast, so I don't think I'll mind the stronger springs.

EBRRider
12-01-2017, 11:49 AM
https://sphdonline.com/collections/ebr-racing-parts/products/cg1007-10az-ebr-1125r-1125cr-clutch-race-spring-kit-l18e

I dont notice any heaver pull and I have short levers. If you have any power mods, heavy springs and a carbon fiber are a must sooner or later. IMO