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d_adams
03-09-2014, 05:51 AM
500 mile service will get here too quick for me and I haven't even really rode it yet. I assume it's the same filter as the 1125 is? I see the manual calls out Amsoil 20/50 if the temps are 40* or higher and 10/30 if under that.

I'll be going over it with a few wrenches to check everything is tight.


Any ideas on when the service manuals will be available?

Classax
03-09-2014, 06:37 AM
I was told they are literally just days away from being released.

fabric8
03-09-2014, 07:15 AM
Just got mine yesterday.

Classax
03-09-2014, 07:24 AM
Is that Owner's or the "SERVICE Manual" ?

fabric8
03-09-2014, 07:28 AM
Is that Owner's or the "SERVICE Manual" ?

Owners manual. My MV Agusta manual was a flash drive also. Haven't received a service manual as of yet.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 07:33 AM
Just do a full oil, filter and motor screen service would be my guess.

fabric8
03-09-2014, 07:45 AM
Is that Owner's or the "SERVICE Manual" ?


Misread op, my bad!


1st time for me buying a bike with no documentation at all. Left the dealer Feb.21st with nothing (didn't get the owners manual until 2weeks later). From what I understand most of these bikes were shipped without MSO's.

d_adams
03-09-2014, 08:29 AM
I got the flash drive and read through most of it already. No mention of part numbers that I recall.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 08:31 AM
Does the RX use the same ECM as the 1125r? I know the RS does... it uses TWO of them.

d_adams
03-09-2014, 09:14 AM
I haven't gone looking for it yet so I don't know. Ecm connection is still the 4 port data plug.

Classax
03-09-2014, 11:08 AM
Misread op, my bad!


1st time for me buying a bike with no documentation at all. Left the dealer Feb.21st with nothing (didn't get the owners manual until 2weeks later). From what I understand most of these bikes were shipped without MSO's.

I got my owners manual yesterday but still waiting on the MSO. Two things worth noting, the suspension suggestions seem to be spot on, and the traction control settings seem to be well thought out as well.

d_adams
03-09-2014, 08:00 PM
ECM "appears" to be the same via visual check. No idea on the programming. Also confirmed the 1125 and 1190 RS use the same filter, pretty sure the RX does as well.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 08:19 PM
No idea on the programming.

It's definitely a different map. (duh). I'm having to reprogram mine to account for the 1190 kit.

d_adams
03-09-2014, 08:27 PM
No, I'm talking DDFI-3 or is it even newer. Buell XB (2003) was DDFI-2, late model xb's and 1125's are DDFI-3. What's the RS and RX?

d_adams
03-12-2014, 05:27 PM
It's a revision. Buell is still owned by hd, so the hardware is physically the same from what I can tell, it just has different programming and is called something else by EBR. They told me the name but it escapes me at this time.

Now I need to find the recommended chain lube. Whatever is on there now is slinging off and is somewhat messy.

Doosh
03-12-2014, 06:18 PM
Now I need to find the recommended chain lube. Whatever is on there now is slinging off and is somewhat messy.

New chains almost always use white lithium grease. It *is* messy.

When I get a new chain, I always clean it with WD-40 and a rag. Then, I like this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009LSXOA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMHO, you should clean a chain after each day's ride, especially as you are breaking in that new chain rub. You will get a lot of little bits of plastic (and rubber if you ride track) into the works.

I clean with WD-40 and a good rag, then dry the chain well, then apply the teflon stuff and wipe it back down. Chain stays quiet and clean.

d_adams
03-16-2014, 06:14 AM
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cas2aQurOq0/UyWFpdCpHEI/AAAAAAAACKg/JgX4l0Iken8/w1017-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+7

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-riyskNWhKMw/UyWFpQtW5xI/AAAAAAAACKY/z4wbQzufcoI/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+6

^ 15.75" wide, outside edge of the stand at the spool if anyone's curious. Leaves about 3/16" clearance on each side.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gpMXplVgyKE/UyWFpWCdgHI/AAAAAAAACKQ/rIz7ajCjd8E/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+5

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DNQkzyfBY7g/UyWFpSu8ouI/AAAAAAAACKI/VoBkXhTdRTs/w1017-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+4

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2uEDaazHY-E/UyWFpVYvfPI/AAAAAAAACKA/DTPHXwoqOqc/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+3

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aWtltbmFznk/UyWFpYvpAnI/AAAAAAAACJ4/kkZhB-DeVpk/w1017-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+2

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vPpXpmbnNMY/UyWFpfKI9DI/AAAAAAAACJw/LDCQFuiyLAk/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+1

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zPXajTEgqmQ/UyWFpZM4rgI/AAAAAAAACKw/tbCIiD4JLGE/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+9

^Active air intake solenoid cable, it does cause extra resistance at about 1/4 throttle.
Yes, I put it back on. For now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ATP4W0dFjZg/UyWFpeBp1QI/AAAAAAAACK4/JemiuIiHjBg/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+10

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ssIyZf_aVTM/UyWFpVE2XzI/AAAAAAAACLA/-ZPxV5l1fa8/w572-h763-no/Inspection.+1190RX+-+11

^ Throttle linkage screw, I _think_ it may be slotted to allow for a small amount of adjustment.
Mine are synced pretty well so I'm not messing with it at this time.

Classax
03-17-2014, 03:07 PM
You have a service manual yet or did you basically just start turning screws and pulling stuff off? Anyone know the torque specs for this thing yet? Unrelated, cleaning and lubing the chain definitately requires pulling the left side of the belly pan. After 1200 miles the smiles seem to be getting bigger!

d_adams
03-17-2014, 04:59 PM
I've been a mechanic for longer than I care to think about, taking stuff apart and putting it back together is 2nd nature to me.

Classax
03-17-2014, 05:35 PM
Taking stuff apart has always come easy to me. Its the putting them back together that always seemed to give me trouble.

rogue4
03-19-2014, 09:42 AM
I have a bad habit of getting in over my head in terms of wrenching on bikes. Usually involves a non-running bike loaded in a truck in d-adams driveway.

d_adams
03-25-2014, 04:05 PM
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=2803

d_adams
03-25-2014, 04:05 PM
Working parts book online, nice addition.

Hughlysses
03-25-2014, 04:49 PM
On a related note, AF1 Racing has the parts book on line: http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=2803

:cheers:

d_adams
03-25-2014, 05:10 PM
Look 2 posts above yours? Lol, thanks though. :)

Hughlysses
03-25-2014, 06:46 PM
Look 2 posts above yours? Lol, thanks though. :)

Holy delayed post, Batman!

Not sure how that happened; guess I should have hit the "refresh" button at least once before posting. :confused:

Classax
04-30-2014, 11:01 AM
Guys be very careful when handling your body work. I had my airbox cover replaced due to a flaw in the finish and when we removed it several of the mounting tabs got cracked. The body work is super light weight but its also paper thin. We've been warned.

Classax
05-10-2014, 08:35 AM
Well looks like I will need to replace my brake pads before this next track day. I aggressively street ride and the RX sends you into corners much faster than you think, so being aggressive on the binders becomes second nature. 5.2K miles which include more than a couple track days and I'm looking for replacements. I could use a little more bite and out right power for track days but for the street the stockers were ok. I'm leaning more towards the 2015's but most of the bikes riding is done on the street. EBC HH didn't appear to hold up well on the 1125r but I have no first hand knowledge of such since I have only ridden and never owned that bike. Doosh or JDugger of Dadams any thoughts?

Side note the Rosa Corsa's are lasting about 3.5K miles front and rears need replacing at about the same time. May try Q3's this time around.

d_adams
05-10-2014, 02:28 PM
I'd definitely go with the 2015's, they wear like IRON on the street. Great stopping power (stoppies are easy and I hate doing them) and they last forever. I'd guess I have a good 15k+ miles on a set on my 1125, still has plenty left.

Btw, Doosh is JDugger if you didn't know.

Doosh
05-12-2014, 08:10 AM
I like the 2015 a lot for track duty. Good, consistent performance, long lasting, better heat handling than other pads I've tried. I don't know about them in a street application and would be concerned about glazing, but have never tried it.

They will wear out rotors a little quicker. Anticipate replacing a rotor every couple of sets of pads. For me, that's probably 1-2 rotors a season, but I get a LOT of track time.

Classax
08-13-2014, 10:56 AM
Well here's the damage on the 6200 mile major service.

1.Valve tolerance was SPOT on! The tech comment it was hardly worth the trouble to check, considering I have been tracking the bike extensively.
2. Brake and Clutch Fluid flushed FREE
3. Rear and Front brake pads $225
4. Oil Change $60
5. Filter Change $12
6. Cleaned Air Filter FREE

Total labor 4 Hours- $513

Points to note- Chain may only last another 10K miles its in spec but has definately stretched a bit. Sprockets look great, Mr. Spacely must have finally gotten something right!


And the downers

Warranty - Replacements
Secondary Resonator- cracked weld folding packing cap, replaced at 403 miles, great ever since
The tabs on the bodywork are the vulnerable spots- Airbox Cover, Left farirng, Upper Faring Right, Right fairing
Headlight assembly seal breach allowing condesation to form inside the headlight, replaced adjusted at 5931 and best light on a motorcyle I've ever had!
Stress crack on windscreen replaced at 5931 miles
ECU- replaced with version two software at 2993 miles, butter smooth on off throttle and self healing fault codes, pesky O2 sensors


and the one I'm still waiting to be fixed

loose heat shield, The mounts are welded to the header, and are very light wieght. This will require a complete engine drop and replacement of the header! UGH the weather is perfect and I'm not riding!


All and all I notice that the reaplacement parts having running improvments to prevent the failures of the first ones which is to be expected when you're ragging out #105 in production ever. The valve check is not that hard and I will likely do it my self next go around. The main things to watch on this bike maintance wise are;

Chain- make sure its correctly adjusted per the manual regardless of what the tech guy tells you at the track.
Brake Pads- the rear OEM pad goes off especially quick if you use it for wheelie control, or have any off track excursions, be sure to bed both properly.


Other wise the bike is the BOMB!!! Just to be clear even though my EBR has to have its valves check twice as often as a Panigale, it cost me just over 4 times less than the 2 to 3 grand those guys are seeing. Yes there have been a few warranty niggles but so far no more than what I have expereinced with other bikes. My wife's ninja 300 had way more issues and please don't even mention my Diavel which was sold with only 4800 miles on it after less than a year of ownership and at total of 5 whole months in the shop.

noone1569
08-14-2014, 10:44 AM
Nice!

I was on track to do valves right about now until I broke my leg a couple weeks ago. Guess I'll put it off for a bit.

Classax
08-14-2014, 03:50 PM
Nice!

I was on track to do valves right about now until I broke my leg a couple weeks ago. Guess I'll put it off for a bit.

Yea that sucks, but I suspect as more people come in with valves that are still pretty much just as they left the factory, the interval for the check will increase.


Just to be clear even though my EBR has to have its valves check twice as often as a Panigale, it cost me just over 4 times less than the 2 to 3 grand those guys are seeing.

A couple of my Panigale riding friends have taken issue with my 4x less exspensive comment and pointed out that their 15K miles services should cost between $1.5 -$2K at the most. So in fairness, yes the EBR has its valves checked twice as much at 37% of the cost of a Panigale's a major service( which equals 26% cheaper measured over the same distance). I would also remind them that they also have a $300-$500 every other 7500 miles. In other words the EBR is cheaper to maintain while delivering the same performance as the 1199 without being a major contributor to global warming from basically idle on up.