Engine stutters help please

[han]

Engine stutters in 3 gear around 5k rpm.Is this normal.Am i in to high a gear.

[EBRRider]

No Not normal, my does not, at 3 gear around 5k rpm, with a 43 tooth.

[buell-fan]

Engine stutters in 3 gear around 5k rpm.Is this normal.Am i in to high a gear.

Have you removed the solenoid cable from the throttle bodies yet ("de-noid")? Also, do a "TPS" reset. Let us know if this clears it up.

[han]

Have you removed the solenoid cable from the throttle bodies yet ("de-noid")? Also, do a "TPS" reset. Let us know if this clears it up.
No i havent.What is that for?

[PADicus1487]

No that's is not normal at all. It does lug a bit around 3-4K RPM but shouldn't at 5K. A tune will take care of that if it's an ECU issue. I have not "de-noided" it but I believe a tune will cure those from limiting power and whatnot. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not 100% sure of this but I've read it before on here. Also have you changed the oil yet since purchasing it? Mine rode ~30% better after the first oil change. Must be a big V Twin thing..?

[zviadi]

No i havent.What is that for?

http://ebrforum.com/showthread.php?301-1190-RX-denoid

[han]

No that's is not normal at all. It does lug a bit around 3-4K RPM but shouldn't at 5K. A tune will take care of that if it's an ECU issue. I have not "de-noided" it but I believe a tune will cure those from limiting power and whatnot. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not 100% sure of this but I've read it before on here. Also have you changed the oil yet since purchasing it? Mine rode ~30% better after the first oil change. Must be a big V Twin thing..?

Well in third gear at 5k 55mph it doesnt do it but in fourth gear it does.And no i havent had my first service yet.Also i have the race ecu and tips in a box just waiting tilll after my first oil change.
I read that thread but am still unclear as to exactly what a denoid does to the bike.Ill read it again to make sure

[zviadi]

De-noid eliminates effect of the "rubber stretched gas handle". The sense of gas with denoid is more tangible.

All of my bikes I try to drive at high revs (specifically for the EBR it 7000-10000 rpm) on low gears. It does not matter how big torque has the engine and what is its displacement and number of cylinders. The right thing is riding at the torque.
Driving at low revs is harmful to the any engines.

[buell-fan]

Well in third gear at 5k 55mph it doesnt do it but in fourth gear it does.And no i havent had my first service yet.Also i have the race ecu and tips in a box just waiting tilll after my first oil change.
I read that thread but am still unclear as to exactly what a denoid does to the bike.Ill read it again to make sure

I'd get that oil out of there if it is the original. I know the factory sets it's change intervals based on oil life, but screw that, the original oil has all the manufacturing debris in it. Changing oil out on s regular basis based on use, looks, and smell is far better insurance than just following a generic manual.

[EBRRider]

I'd get that oil out of there if it is the original. I know the factory sets it's change intervals based on oil life, but screw that, the original oil has all the manufacturing debris in it. Changing oil out on s regular basis based on use, looks, and smell is far better insurance than just following a generic manual.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes,

[EBRRider]

No i havent.What is that for?
ECM Replacement Procedure
When replacing the ECM on all 2014 EBR 1190 models, the following steps must be followed to ensure
the bike will run properly after the new ECM installed on the bike:
1) Clear fault codes
1". The replacement ECM may contain incidental historic fault codes that are logged
due to the initial ECM configuration process. Clear these codes using the
instrument cluster before performing the TPS reset using the following
procedures:
a. Turn the ignition switch on.
b. Press the top button on the instrument cluster to access the "Menu".
c. Scroll to "Diagnostics" and select.
d. Scroll to "Historic Faults" and select.
e. Scroll to "Clear Faults" and select.
f. Scroll to "Yes" and select.
g. Exit menu.
2) TPS reset
1. Turn the key on and make sure the handlebar kill switch is in the run position.
2. Do not start the bike.
3. Turn throttle to full open and hold about one second.
4. Release throttle completely so it snaps shut. Wait one second.
5. Repeat the steps 3 and 4 (full throttle, hold, and release) two more times.
6. Turn the key off for at least two seconds.
7. Turn the ignition key on and start the bike.
3) IAC averaging reset
1.. After completing the TPS reset procedure, leave the bike running and allow it to
warm to operating temperature before riding. This process will allow the IAC to reset properly.

[PADicus1487]

I agree with EBRRider and buel-fan. Do the first oil change early (now) and that will help. Then get those tips and ECU in asap. That should solve the issue at hand!

[han]

I agree with EBRRider and buel-fan. Do the first oil change early (now) and that will help. Then get those tips and ECU in asap. That should solve the issue at hand!

Dang i still got 400 miles to go till break in!😕
Arent there potential risk of changing it too early?Im not being argumentative i appreciate the advice im just covering all my bases.I like to do my research

[EBRRider]

Dang i still got 400 miles to go till break in!
Arent there potential risk of changing it too early?Im not being argumentative i appreciate the advice im just covering all my bases.I like to do my research

Very simple , Ride the Dam bike !! :lol2::lol2::lol2:

[buell-fan]

Dang i still got 400 miles to go till break in!😕
Arent there potential risk of changing it too early?Im not being argumentative i appreciate the advice im just covering all my bases.I like to do my research

When rebuilding a race engine the rule of thumb is to seat the rings in fast and tight with hard throttle inputs and letoffs under load, but not climbing the rpm's over 5k, and to change the oil out, usually within 50 miles if driven on the streets. I follow this principal with both my EBR's. But if you look at any production car or bike, even high performance production machines, they never get their oil changed for many, many miles after break-in. So you really can wait, I just choose not to wait just in case there's gritty machining residue or pieces of dirt or sand that had found their way in there during assembly.

[EBRRider]

When rebuilding a race engine the rule of thumb is to seat the rings in fast and tight with hard throttle inputs and letoffs under load, but not climbing the rpm's over 5k, and to change the oil out, usually within 50 miles if driven on the streets. I follow this principal with both my EBR's. But if you look at any production car or bike, even high performance production machines, they never get their oil changed for many, many miles after break-in. So you really can wait, I just choose not to wait just in case there's gritty machining residue or pieces of dirt or sand that had found their way in there during assembly.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes agreed!!! Change the oil , But ride it like you stole it .It has so much power, you will get scared and let off before you can hurt it. DAMHIKT



(https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi13djK9szTAhVB_2MKHYz4BroQFggmMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.allacronyms.com%2FDAMHIKT%2F Don%2527t_Ask_Me_How_I_Know_That&usg=AFQjCNEGUQ0O33whdi-XQUQJYl_KJySAaA&sig2=bj6Odgt13neP1sVkMdmH1Q)

[PADicus1487]

Dang i still got 400 miles to go till break in!
Arent there potential risk of changing it too early?Im not being argumentative i appreciate the advice im just covering all my bases.I like to do my research

The only potential risk would be if you wait too long to change the oil next time. I changed mine 400 miles after I got it. Got it in Sept '17 and it was a left over '14 so I knew it needed it. I also had it changed the day I rode it home just because it was sitting for so long. Yes, $60 for an oil change and I got 400 miles out of it. I will plan on changing it again at 5k miles or so and will check the valves then as well. I know it's every 6k but I will just do oil and valves every 4-5k miles. Nothing scientific about it but I want to keep it simple that way it gets done. Also, all that goes out the window if you track it. I've done that once and plan on it every 3-4 months or so.. it shouldn't be a deal breaker then!