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Classax
03-09-2014, 04:28 AM
A couple of observations.
1. There is no side stand kill switch so make sure its up before you pull off.
2. For such a short wheel base the bike has to be cajoled to wheelie. It seems to just want to charge forward.
3. The pegs have both great grip and almost no flex. They're as close to fixed rearsets as you can get.
3. The traction control is pretty transparent, you'll only notice the blinking light, you can't really feel it affecting the drive.
4. The seat and tank grip leather but are slick with textiles, definitely need some stompgrip or other traction pad.
5 The brakes are a 1 maybe 2 finger stoppie machine. Between the engine braking and brakes you scrub speed really fast I have to recalibrate my braking marker closer to the turns.
6 The bike brakes very flat compared to most others, you have to be really aggressive to get a lot of fork dive. This is great because it makes trailing the brakes in much smoother.
7. Bike is very sensitive to suspension and body position adjustments. You can really feel/notice the impact of changes. Hanging off buys you back lean angle fast. Corners like 600.
8. 447lbs full of fuel, feels way lighter.
9. Engine gets smoother the higher its rev'd
10. The mirrors actually show more than jittery elbows. Maybe up there with the 2k13 ZX10 for most effective mirror position. Yes its a twin so they vibrate, but still way better than most.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 07:43 AM
1. There is no side stand kill switch so make sure its up before you pull off.

At least on the 1125r, the stand would fold up if you want into a turn with it down. Looks like the same side stand, so I suspect the same behavior.


2. For such a short wheel base the bike has to be cajoled to wheelie. It seems to just want to charge forward.

I don't think it's all that short anymore. The one I saw in person had a chain setting not too far from where mine is, and that's a good inch+ longer than the 1125r.


5 The brakes are a 1 maybe 2 finger stoppie machine. Between the engine braking and brakes you scrub speed really fast I have to recalibrate my braking marker closer to the turns.

6 The bike brakes very flat compared to most others, you have to be really aggressive to get a lot of fork dive. This is great because it makes trailing the brakes in much smoother.

This might also be set-up. The one I pushed on had a very soft rear setting compared to the front, and that was on a stand!

Where did you ride it, MSRH? I saw my first one in the flesh yesterday, and started looking it over as a race bike immediately! LOL

d_adams
03-09-2014, 12:02 PM
Quick ride report, it's leaps and bounds ahead of an xb. Didn't go over 5k rpm yet (was told not to) but even so, at 5k you're doing 80+ mph with it. 60 mph = 55-57 mpg instant average. Smooth delivery of power above 3k rpm, didn't stay below that for any stretch so as to not lug the engine. Handling is exceptional and smooth. Almost falls into corners like it already knows which way you want to go, but stable at the same time. Braking markers MUST be adjusted. I already feel a tad more comfy on this one compared to the 1125. Seating position is a smidge cramped/tighter than the 1125, I haven't adjusted anything on the 1190 though. Only has 25 miles on it now, it was still a bit cool out. Screen is clearly legible in bright daylight.

Classax
03-09-2014, 12:31 PM
At least on the 1125r, the stand would fold up if you want into a turn with it down. Looks like the same side stand, so I suspect the same behavior.


I guess it would, but I didn't test that it, it's just something I noticed.

I don't think it's all that short anymore. The one I saw in person had a chain setting not too far from where mine is, and that's a good inch+ longer than the 1125r

It is but compared to a Panigale or anything else except a CBR1000RR( only a few mm longer) or even 600's its at least an 1" shorter, yet it really prefers to keep its nose down and shoot forward with the TC on anything above 8.


This might also be set-up. The one I pushed on had a very soft rear setting compared to the front, and that was on a stand!

I had mine set up per the factory setting for my weight (240lbs+) so mine is stiffer than most. I could go a little stiffer in the rear for the track, but for the street that's about as stiff as I'd want it.

Where did you ride it, MSRH? I saw my first one in the flesh yesterday, and started looking it over as a race bike immediately! LOL

(in my Phineas and Ferb voice) "Why yes, yes I did."



The one you saw was mine. If you are looking for one in TX you can't go wrong with Kevin from Goe EBR in Angleton or Ed with AF-1 in Austin. Both super class guys with great EBR ties. I left early as it kept sprinkling and the track never seemed to come in. This morning was no better so I didn't bother to make the trip. I decided to just continue loading up to head to Bike Week tomorrow.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 01:45 PM
I didn't see yours... I saw the one in the dealership in Plano, I just knew there was a RideSmart track day at Houston.

As much as I would prefer to buy local, there's almost ZERO chance I will. I see absolutely no reason to pay an additional $1500 in taxes and fees for a bike that will never see the street. I don't want it tagged, I don't want it titled, and I am absolutely not paying sales tax on it.

Doosh
03-09-2014, 01:50 PM
Braking markers MUST be adjusted.

My suspicion is you can thank the EPA for this. Moans throughout the paddock across many new 2013 models about "over the handlebars" levels of engine braking. The new ZX-10, for example, completely cuts fuel during decel to reduce emissions. Might be good for the air, it's absolutely horrible for control under significant braking.

The 1125r was the same way. The OEM fuel map was really abrupt off throttle, but smoothed out considerably using the race ECM.

Classax
03-09-2014, 02:36 PM
I don't know if I'd call it over the bars, it just scrubs speed much faster than I would expect for the level of bite I get out of the brakes and the amount of fork dive I get. The engine braking isn't sudden, you just start immediately slowing as opposed the zx10 were is still feels like you coasting faster as you roll off. Its very much like riding a Zero electric bike, not abrut like on the Panigale base but you do start to loose speed on roll off. Its very flat on decel so the places I'm used to braking on a liter bike for a given turn, I can go MUCH deeper faster and still find that I have out braked myself. My best frame of reference is a 636. Compared to it I'm carrying way more speed at the markers I normally would use and still slowing way faster than I would expect. Then it tips in and completes the turn with little fuss and wants gas. It goes side to side almost as easily as my 300. I need to program myself that it can carry more corner speed than what I have experienced on the 636 or the zx10(part of that may be because the 10 isn't mine). If I can ride this bike ANYONE can.

Classax
03-18-2014, 12:39 PM
So how are getting along? Mixed thoughts. I definitely will be adding TechSpec traction padding very soon. If you ride like the bike is meant to, mpg avg around 30.5, keep to posted speend limits .( Incrediably hard to do) and under 5 grand and you can see it go as high as 63mpg avg. I'm still working out the suspension settings. The recommended ones seems great for the track but too harsh for the street. Had a chance to ride back to back with a Panigale S. The RX definitely has way more torque and is much more well behaved in traffic. From a fit and finish standpoint at least in regards to the cosmetics it fall behind the Duc. From a mechanical standpoint it feels as good or better. The Pani had over 7K miles and my RX is just over 1.2K and the RX tranny is far smoother and shifts with far less effort, still a quick shifter would have been nice. Only major con right now is the clutch pull is HEAVY. Unless you're coming from an old Duc or a Harley, you will be wondering "What THE...". It(clutch) can also be a bit snatchy when the bike is cold but smoothes out quickly when up to temperature. I'm on the fence about the brakes. They don't have allot of extreme bite at first, but the feel is very good and linear so they are easy to modulate. The feel is so good in fact that one can feel when the pad material is not even on the rotors through the lever as opposed to the Panny S which bites hard immediately but lacks the level of feel for finessing brakes hard while leaned over. The display is good but I would have loved to be able to pull up more info such as oil and water temps and pressures. The Duc is more refined and has more bells and whistles. The RX suites my personality better being that I too am a no nonsense rough around the edges kind of guy. Overall I'm loving the bike!

rogue4
03-19-2014, 09:56 AM
The display is good but I would have loved to be able to pull up more info such as oil and water temps and pressures. The Duc is more refined and has more bells and whistles. The RX suites my personality better being that I too am a no nonsense rough around the edges kind of guy. Overall I'm loving the bike!

I always liked knowing my CT. You're saying this isn't a feature anymore? Kind of hard to believe since you could pull this up on the 1125R/CR

Classax
03-19-2014, 11:28 AM
I always liked knowing my CT. You're saying this isn't a feature anymore? Kind of hard to believe since you could pull this up on the 1125R/CR

I will go on record as saying perhaps I don't know how. Scrolling through the rather highly intuitive menus on bike didn't bring up these options and the owners manual make not mention of it. As far as temps go the bike will let you know when its too cold or too hot by displaying engine cold or Engine Hot and reducing your available rev range. I just would prefer to know the exact temps. To be honest I really find myself only concerned with REV, and Gear selection as speed becomes more a getting a feel of those two.

mackja
03-21-2014, 07:58 AM
Put little over 100 miles on my 1190 yesterday, love everything about it, but the clutch pull, way to hard, so it will be better levers or Accassato or Brembo cylinder. My dads 78 ElectraGlide has easier clutch pull lol. In everyway it is better than the 1125, great machine, love it.

Classax
03-21-2014, 10:12 AM
Put little over 100 miles on my 1190 yesterday, love everything about it, but the clutch pull, way to hard, so it will be better levers or Accassato or Brembo cylinder. My dads 78 ElectraGlide has easier clutch pull lol. In everyway it is better than the 1125, great machine, love it.

Yep clutch pull is my only niggle. To be honest though while its a supper stiff pull, it has great feel, very precise and I really only notice how stiff it is at stop lights. On the go, downshifting for corners, and slipping it in traffic, it is firm but not taxing at all. Sitting at a stop light holding it all the way in, makes me start to think about getting new MC's within about 6 seconds. Other than that, its AMAZING! What are you running you traction control setting at, depending on the setting it really transforms how the bike reacts to WOT.

mackja
03-21-2014, 11:34 AM
I set the TC at 3, can't really feel it working under brake in period, probably will turn it off and not use it or maybe set it at 1 or 2. Had a KTM RC8r, and I would run it pretty hard and never had any tire spin. I keep it sane on the street, and this bike wont find it's way to the track for a few more years. I have the Accassato on my 1125 and it works great, so unless I can find some levers the give me more leverage, I will mount the Accassato unit on both sides. Although the Magura unit on the KTM did a great job also, might try one of those.

Classax
04-03-2014, 05:03 PM
I think I got a weak one... only 159.25HP:spit: 79.18*F, 29.58in and 72% humidity on the initial pull gave us this:
224
Corrected that's in the neighborhood of about 165.62 at the rwh bone stock! Look at that air fuel ratio! BEAUTIFUL!
and now the fun begins....

d_adams
04-03-2014, 07:39 PM
The coil driver pickup for reading rpm is under the seat, only one bolt to get at it. It's the same wires/pins as an 1125 and easier to get to. Clip the inductive pickup lead around both wires (they're taped together anyway) and you'll get your torque reading.

Classax
04-04-2014, 10:31 AM
Yea we did, This was a just quick baseline so I didn't have them print out all the screens. Peak torque on the base pull was 90.51ft-lbs(all numbers quoted are corrected)@8300RPM! The thing is from 3200 RPM its 69.88ft-lbs and it never goes below 74.77ft-lbs until redline at 11.5 grand. There's a definite step which is more of an incline, to the curve, which is actually more of a slope than a curve, definietley not an arc. From about 6100 on to the peak @ 8300, but on the bike you feel it seem to really hit at about 7.6 and it just keeps pulling all the way to redline. Its weird, its a big midrange hit( surge, boost, hit isn't the right word but we'll go with it), that's very manageable, yet still quite brutal. It doesn't give the traditional top end rush so to speak but doesn't have a distinct sign off either. It just pulls and pulls and then you are out of revs. Way more fun riding the bike than the dyno sheet would suggest. The power is very accessible and useable. Its being smooth around town in 15mph turns that I going to have to rethink and master with this thing. Parking lots are not its friend. Below 20mph she is grumbly when cold and you need to slip the clutch even when warm going that slow. Any turn you can take above 25mph is like magic.