R&G Tidy Tail - Modification

[Dewyz1100]

Greetings forum members...

Just wanted to share a recent modification that I made to my 1190RX...I started out with an R&G Tidy Tail Kit...

The R&G kit came with a tail light, but seemed like a PIA to splice wiring...and the #4 threaded studs seemed pretty cheap considering the cost of the kit...

I wanted to find a way to use the OEM tail light (M6 mounting screws) along with the OEM turn signals...the turn signals were easy enough to mount, but the tail light required some grinding/drilling...

I had to remove the center piece of metal, and grind out ~ a nickel's diameter in the upper part to allow the license plate light wiring to clear the bracket...

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Then, two 5/16" holes needed to be drilled to allow for the M8 shoulder size of the OEM tail light mounting screws...unfortunately I did not make a jig, or use a drill press, so mine needed to be "massaged" for proper tail light centering... The license plate also needed some trimming for these holes to clear, and for the wiring to pass through...

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If you want to re-use the OEM screws for mounting the kit to the tail, the brackets will need the same 5/16" holes enlargement for the screw shoulders be recessed in the bracket...

The final result turned out to look pretty good...all with using all OEM lights and wiring...

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Please post any custom tail mods that you have...love to see 'em...!

[buell-fan]

Not too bad! That is a lot closer than mine. I just shortened the stalk on mine by cutting 3" out of the center, beveled it and then epoxied the front stalk inside of the back.

[greest_lightnin]

Truth be told, I liked the OEM tail light better than the tiny clear one that came with the Tail Tidy. I'm considering your option...

Thanks,

Al

[Dewyz1100]

If the OEM tail light mounting studs were flat (instead of at an angle) it could have been mounted to the upper flat portion that the R&G tail light mounts to...and would have been even closer to the tail, with no license plate grinding... Alas...adapt and overcome...

Thanks for checking it out!

[Mike]

I also did the modification of the stock assembly.
Cost...a coupla hours and some JB Weld epoxy.

Mines a bit closer than "buell-fan's" is.

I hate paying exorbitant/over inflated prices that these aftermarket guys get. So...when I can, I build/modify myself.

Mike

[Dewyz1100]

I hear you... I just wanted to keep my stock part un-modified...in case I ever want to go back to the OEM look...either for myself, or re-sale value...

[qurtrn10]

I just installed a universal license plate kit (Cycle Gear $55), and bought the NCCR block off plate (has the tongue $80).
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/WilliamWalker/EBR/2016-02-09%20-%20license%20plate%20mount%204_zpshg2j3wqe.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/WilliamWalker/media/EBR/2016-02-09%20-%20license%20plate%20mount%204_zpshg2j3wqe.jpg.htm l)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/WilliamWalker/EBR/2016-02-09%20-%20license%20plate%20mount%203_zpslokowha1.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/WilliamWalker/media/EBR/2016-02-09%20-%20license%20plate%20mount%203_zpslokowha1.jpg.htm l)

I have all the original stock parts in case I decide to go back, although I did repurpose the shorter turn signals from the rear to the front:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/WilliamWalker/EBR/0322161734_zpshjnvq4h3.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/WilliamWalker/media/EBR/0322161734_zpshjnvq4h3.jpg.html)

Only complaint is that where I wanted to mount the plate (the more vertical spot on the undertail), I needed access to the bolt for the seat. As a temporary solution, I just cut a hole in the plate. On version 2.0, I'll probably come up with a spring mount that I can pivot out of the way to gain access to the bolt.

[TerryS1980]

I am seriously considering ditching my R&G tail tidy for one that is tucked under. Is that a StreetFX integrated plate frame?

[Dewyz1100]

Very nice... :)

[qurtrn10]

I am seriously considering ditching my R&G tail tidy for one that is tucked under. Is that a StreetFX integrated plate frame?

Yep, that was the brand name. You have to buy the license plate kit, plus a mounting hardware kit. On sale, it cost me about $55.

[recon033]

You can avoid all this and buy an 100% plug and play I defeated tail light from twisted designs on eBay. Awesome light and I have pics in the sx forum.

[Dewyz1100]

I saw the two kits Twisted Designs has for sale...look great...only problem (for me) was that I had already bought the Tidy Tail kit...or I would have gotten his... :)

[Dewyz1100]

EBR uses JST "JWPF Series" connectors for the tail light wiring (the three-wire connector is for the brake light, the two-wire connector is for the license plate light), along with standard "0.156" crimp-on round quick disconnect terminals for the turn signals (the set with factory masking tape was my Left Signal - ie "Tape Left On")...the blue wire being the positive, black negative...in case of LED bulb replacements...(waiting for mine to come in and verify fitment within housings before I post my own thread)

All these connector pins and housings can be had from DigiKey...They are all inexpensive, so I ordered double what I required to have spares in case of an accidental F-Up...

You will need to have the proper crimper both for the quick disconnects, and the pins that go in the housings - or spend the extra time with a set of pliers and/or soldering iron to secure the wires to them...but I have found that nothing beats a plug and play installation...I HATE modifying factory wiring unless a last resort...

Here is my shopping cart from DigiKey:
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[TerryS1980]

Connectors and crimps are dirt cheap but one of those "special" crimpers can run anywhere from $50-$100.

[lotusexcelle]

In my real life I teach technicians and do industry management consulting. Some of that involves recommending tools.
Most of the terminals you'll deal with are "open barrel" and for those I like using this:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1471275073&sr=8-8&keywords=open+barrel+crimper

If you've never done precision crimping before... it is VERY difficult to get right your first, say, 30 tries. Practice before you crimp your bike's wiring. I also recommend reading Molex's crimping manual. Its... a thick read. But you'll be a better crimper just by glancing at the pictures.
http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-638000029.pdf

Rarely you'll see a closed barrel terminal. I don't really have a preferred one of those but make sure you buy the right size. DO NOT BUY FROM A TOOL TRUCK. They mark up prices like crazy. Here is an example of a closed barrel kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWXY7NI?psc=1

Terminals are sized differently (for example most open-barrels you'll deal with might be a 16-18) so make sure you know your sizes and order the right pieces.

[Dewyz1100]

I work in the Aero-Space/Defense industry, so I forget how much tools cost sometimes to those not used to paying for them...even in my own personal projects, I just figure in the cost of the tools I need into the job at hand - if I can't borrow it from someone that is...

I make custom wiring harnesses, and bought a pair of crimpers that get used for most "Molex" type of connectors...recently used it to make a plug and play harness for my Harley Road King's front signal wiring - plugging in a Custom Dynamics Eclipse Module for use with my LED mirror turn signals...

For those "closed barrel" crimp applications, I use a Daniels radial crimper with interchangeable dies for whatever type of connector I need (Harwin, Hypertronic, etc)...

Here is a pick of a basic "Molex" style crimper...
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...and a link example...
http://www.precisehandtools.com/engineer-pa-09-universal-mini-crimping-tool-for-molex-jst-amp-hirose-jae-etc

[SLO]

The JST crimper is actually around $400 to crimp the pins for the tail wiring plugs. Can it be done with other tools sure.

[lotusexcelle]

The JST crimper is actually around $400 to crimp the pins for the tail wiring plugs. Can it be done with other tools sure.
A crimper that will crimp JST is no more than 40 dollars. Where are you finding one for that much money?

[SLO]

The real JST WC-JWPF crimper is no $40. Like I said can it be done with other tools? sure. But the below link is the correct crimping tool.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/WC-JWPF/455-1371-ND/660152

[lotusexcelle]

JST is a brand, not a style of connector. As is Deutsch, Molex, Delphi, Sumitomo, etc etc etc. Pick the style of crimp and there are plenty of manufacturers out there that offer a crimper for it. Buying one specific brand for 10x the cost of another because it is a brand (that doesn't have a patent on a certain crimp style) is a colossal waste of money.

[lotusexcelle]

As an example, Deutsch DT series and Amphenol AT series are exactly the same connector. But to buy a Deutsch DT connector tool because Deutsch is one of the manufacturers that makes the *style* of connector you are working worth is insane.

[SLO]

The factory connector is JST. So if you want to plug into the factory connector you need to buy the JST JWPF plug. The pins for the DT and AT series Deutsch plug are different than the JWPF, they may work but they are not what was used from EBR. EBR does use Deutsch connectors and pins on a bunch of harnesses like the dash, but the tail is JST. I'm sure other crimpers will work just fine. Not like you have to have a Miller welder to weld metal. Just like you can probably use a different crimper, hell you can probably soldier right to the pins and not crimp at all. Not trying to derail the OPs thread just putting my worthless 2 cents in. Lol.

[blackhawk]

I also did the modification of the stock assembly.
Cost...a coupla hours and some JB Weld epoxy.

Mines a bit closer than "buell-fan's" is.

I hate paying exorbitant/over inflated prices that these aftermarket guys get. So...when I can, I build/modify myself.

Mike

any chance you have pic of this... I was thinking about doing same with mine put having it plastic welded back together by professionals , than paint or hydro dip it...

where did you cut it off at? I was thinking about 2 inches outta stock rear tail assembly would make a huge difference without changing angle of it

[Erbaddict]

Not too bad! That is a lot closer than mine. I just shortened the stalk on mine by cutting 3" out of the center, beveled it and then epoxied the front stalk inside of the back.

I followed your lead and did sth similar. I superglued both stem ends together. You also see the M-Blaze flashers from Motogadget.
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