Yes, this true, you can take any brand shim and sand it down with 600 wet/dry paper. I did this on my KTM and my honda.
They are case hardened so dont over do it.
Last edited by EBRRider; 11-19-2017 at 10:48 AM.
EBRRider -
You apparently didn't read my last post..!
I DID...try sanding both the EBR and Harley shims...not even hardly a mark (dry) on either..!
While the previously mentioned shims...took .002" in just a minute or so..! NOT a good thing.
This IS funny yea know. Many claim EBR/Buell to be the best thing since sliced bread...yet here you are cheapen out on critical components ?
Your money, your engine...I'm out.
Mike
I am not suggesting I would do it on my EBR, Just saying I have done it on my dirt bikes.
Mike,
Are you running sandpaper for followers? Is your top-end dry? If neither of those applies, neither does your sandpaper test.
Get some 2k+ grit sandpaper, cover it and the shim in motor oil, see if it still removes anything.
The shims are not installed nor utilized in a manner where 600-grit sandpaper is anywhere near a real-world depiction of use nor a legitimate test.
Last edited by LeesEBR; 11-20-2017 at 05:24 PM.
I already wrote in the beginning of this topic that at 6000 miles I used Hot Cams.
Continuation of a story. For 12000 miles I regretted the adjustment of the valves for various reasons, mainly because of laziness.
Now the run is approaching the third valve adjustment interval (18000 miles) - still all right with the engine. Riding is constantly at high revs. This engine is quite reliable.
Mike, could not the mod be so nervous and leave this forum?
I still have questions for you about the greatly inflated shipping cost of original spare parts to Russia. So business is not done.
Last edited by zviadi; 11-23-2017 at 02:21 PM.
EBR 1190 RX
My experience has been similar to Mike's.
The shims are very hard, I use diamond files.
Last edited by zac4mac; 11-23-2017 at 07:26 PM.