Has anyone looked into the cause of the front rod failures?

[gdisaac07]

I meant Stock bore/ stock engine? or stock bore with sleeves? I'll assume the latter because his opinion is pro-sleeve.

I still think it's a witch hunt but other than lightening the wallet, why not? If you are doing a valve adjust, it's not much more to swap cylinders. I can't imagine the case would need machining.

Jorge should send the cylinders he already bought to Dave, they could make a dozen and that would drop the $$ a whole bunch, and do the rest on a core charge/ exchange basis. But that's just an idea.

I think he meant stock bore with sleeves.

I'm not sure it is. It makes sense as an explanation, but maybe less because of the hardness of the liners as the quality of the metal.

That's a great idea. I'll ask Dave whether he'd be open to that.

[MrSix]

Hi Erik "Mr Six" Mallory here.
A bike that is past the break in period should be able to be red-lined. Especially one with a race pedigree. Missing a shift or three shouldn't cause a rod to punt in less than 1200 miles. Using heavy oil is an issue at start. the oil is thick and has a hard time getting up to the cams. When it's warm it's not an issue. Agreed not the wisest choice, not the cause of rod failure either. What does cause rod failures by and large, is overfilling the oil. Which is completely possible to do if you do not do the hot oil check. If you read your manual thoroughly the "cold engine check/side stand check" is only a partial check if you just do that, you're doing it wrong.


It's my belief that people are checking the oil on the side stand and over filling causing these failures. the previous owner or the dealership or both made that mistake, so did I. EBR and LAP took care of me, and now I will take care of this engine to the letter of the manual.

[White SX]

Have to agree with everything MrSix is saying here.

[Cooter]

+1 here

Step 5 (c) is very telling.

"AT (or above) the upper line"..... drain some