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  1. #1
    EBRforum Expert Cooter's Avatar
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    Converting your 1190 for the track.

    Looks like a couple of us are doing this and have some good ideas! Please post what you did and what you like

    Disclaimer:
    There's 2 major differences...
    Trackdays: Fun and relaxing, less serious and less strict.
    Racing: Converting to a legitimate race bike, for actual racing, is a whole different animal. If you are a legitimate racer, post pics of your winnings and trophies and I'd like to hear your input

    I have an SX and want to convert it, complete with RX fairings (Hotbodies), but still be able to swap back to the SX bars/fairings and have the machine I bought for longer rides as well.

    I would recommend leaving the engine as stock as possible. No one 'wins' a track day, there are no trophies, but you can certainly 'lose' one. IMO, a stock engine will be the most dependable, especially if you're gonna beat on it and who cares about the lap time, as long as its faster than your last one

    My list of upgrades, in no particular order:

    1) Gearing. Easily done, and changed with rear sprockets. I have gone up to 44 teeth in the rear with the stock chain. The stock ECM will only calibrate to 41 so you'll get a ghost double 4th (or 5th) gear indicator, but the speedo is still accurate because it reads off the rear wheel.
    If you want IDS has ECM's that will work with any gearing you specify, or they can modify yours.
    JD Sprockets has steel ones, Vortex has aluminum ones. I hear theres a guy on facebook with rears and a cool interchangeable front unit as well.

    2) A quick shifter. Dynojet 4-104 linear push switch. Buelltooth.com offers some and GP shift as well! The early bikes ('14-early '15) need the ECM to be sent to EBR for the update to enable this function. The later bikes already have it enabled. It is as simple as mounting the switch, and wiring to the kickstand plug (ground and center signal wire). Boom, best mod ever.

    3) Tires. Shinkos may be ok to get to work, but not for the track. IMO, I get the softest DOT tires I can afford to replace. Slicks are great, and confidence inspiring, but come with the penalty of terrible wet/damp/cold traction. Once again, you aren't racing. A cold wet day at the track is MUCH more fun on DOT tires. I get to pass the instructors on those days as they slide around
    BUT, if you can afford an extra set of wheels/brakes get some slicks on that set to swap on... and its amazing!

    4) Suspension. Your weight (fully geared up) and your speed, will determine the mods here. You can buy all the whiz-bang stuff at anytime, it buys adjustability and quality. IMO stock suspension will be fine for a light person at reasonable speeds.
    Once you pass the point that stock suspension adjustments aren't enough, the first way to compensate is using different weights of fork oil to bring the stock adjustments back from the edge. Secondarily, better cartridges that fit in stock forks is a step up. Thirdly they'll be happy to sell you complete fork legs. Let your wallet be your guide.

    5) Maintenance. You'll be spending more than you think on brake fluid, pads, tires, oil, clutch discs, chains, sprockets... Don't let that valve adjustment slack! The manuals mileage intervals for the 'commuter dude' no longer apply.

    6) Protection. You WILL fall off. Of course you already have the best, latest gear to wear, so the bike needs some love too! Money spent here is insurance for expenses later.
    Fork and swing arm sliders to protect the axle threads, Case sliders to protect the clutch slave, bar end plugs, and frame pucks.

    7) Brakes. I use EBC 'HH' pads, but opinions abound, post what you prefer. For me, they work well on the street and haven't been an issue on the track. I'm no Mr. late-trail-braking-hero-guy either so YMMV. Flush your fluid with new DOT 4 before every trackday.
    Last edited by Cooter; 02-20-2018 at 03:06 PM.

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