What did you do to your EBR1190 today ?

[gdisaac07]

Well... It IS a motorcycle after all

The most common mods would be:
Change the rear sprocket to 43 tooth (JD sprockets for steel ones and theres aluminum from Vortex) since they are so long legged. Its a shockingly cheap and dramatic mod.
Add a quick shifter. You only need the switch as the EBR upgrade will enable the function.
De-noid the airbox (1k ohm resistor in the plug will stop the CEL from activating.
Modify the exhaust to either eliminate the resonator and add tips, or a whole new system from APH or Keda. Be SURE to get a matching ECM from Dean at Keda or Tim at IDS. These don't self-adjust enough to like the mods without tuning.
Since it an early bike (2014 right?) Send your dash and ECM to EBR for the latest updates.
Oil change at 600 miles
There are a couple other little things if you wish like an easy clutch pull kit (I wouldn't), a rear shock coil change from yellow to red (lighter rate by 50lbs(?)) a softer seat at less angle (St1tch) but this thing is a serious performance bike and will never fail to put a smile on your face. Post pics!

I've actually been wrenching on it quite a bit so far. I intend it to be a track/street monster. It's a 2017 SX in white. Here's what I've already done for it:

• Installed 44 tooth JD sprocket
• Installed motogadget m-blaze disc bar end blinkers
• Installed CRG lanesplitter bar end mirrors
• Installed New Rage Cycles Rage 360 turn signals, with resistors
• Installed Motion Pro Rev2.1 Throttle
• Moved all stock switchgear/starter on the bars, including drilling new holes
• Installed Öhlins steering damper
• Removed solenoid
• Installed Dean Adams Designs round can exhaust
• Installed IDS programmable ECU
• Installed Twisted Designs fender eliminator
• Installed Shorai battery cable
• Removed pillion peg assembly
• Removed rear chain guard
• Installed Kriega Drypack Straps to tail
• Installed R&G Racing Kickstand Pad
• Techspec tank pad set

I have a bunch of other parts that I have in the garage that I intend to install as well:

• T-Rex Racing full slider pack
• BUELLtooth GP shift Quickshifter
• USB hub
• 1125 race clutch springs
• RS carbon fiber belly pan (requires some modification and fabrication)
• RX brake cooling scoop
• Öhlins RS rear shock
• Öhlins NIX30 front fork cartridge kit

In order to make it a track/street machine, I plan to be able to quick swap the handle bar for some clip ons. I'm going to be purchasing:

• Woodcraft clip ons
• Woodcraft bar ends
• Woodcraft lever guards
• Extra Woodcraft bars
• Extra Motion Pro Rev2.1 throttle tube
• Extra Motion Pro Rev2.1 throttle cam
• OEM EBR grips

I'm really looking forward to how this bike will be when it's all done. I've been taking pictures along the way, and I'll put up a full build album when I'm done.

[Cooter]

That's quite a list!
You are right, I forgot to mention the Ohlins adjustable damper.

The stock one is valved much to light for me:( I really hated the OE grips though. I thought they were pencil thin and slick. Hard to battle that stiff throttle spring, especially with the motion pro throttle cam! I have Hulk hands so a set of softer 'Fat Grips' are perfect for me.

FYI, the clip-ons won't fit with the stock SX ignition, so you'll need an RX upper triple.

[gdisaac07]

That's quite a list!
You are right, I forgot to mention the Ohlins adjustable damper. The stock one didn't seem to do anything:( I really hated the OE grips though. I thought they were pencil thin and slick. Hard to battle that stiff throttle spring, especially with the motion pro throttle cam! I have Hulk hands so a set of softer 'Fat Grips' are perfect for me.

FYI, the clip-ons won't fit with the stock SX ignition, so you'll need an RX upper triple.

I like the OE grips. I had the motogadget soft grips on my XB and wasn't a fan. I find the OE grips to be the right size for me at this point. If I find them too slippery on the track, I also have the Motion Pro grips in the box 'o parts, so I can always throw those on.

Hmmmm interesting RE: the ignition. I don't want to lose the ability to put the handlebar back on, so I might have to relocate the ignition to a place that allows me to shoehorn the clip on bracket into the correct place. I know it's just three bolts fastening the ignition (though two are break-off fasteners), so maybe a 1-inch drop plate will allow me to do what I want to do.

It also looks like it's going to take some doing to get the RS rear shock installed. The brake line runs right through where the suspension side can would be. And the Showa Big Piston Forks are very oddly assembled, so I'm probably going to have to create an adapter plate for the bottom of the tube to fit the Öhlins parts in.

[Cooter]

Thats easy with the ignition (longer bolts/spacers) as long as you don't mind losing the steering lock.

I'm in the middle of this can of worms right now putting Hot Bodies RX fairings on my SX. I think I should have just got a salvage RX for the track

[gdisaac07]

Thats easy with the ignition (longer bolts/spacers) as long as you don't mind losing the steering lock.

I'm in the middle of this can of worms right now putting Hot Bodies RX fairings on my SX. I think I should have just got a salvage RX for the track

Why would I lose steering lock if I drop the ignition one inch down?

Yeah I'm struggling with that now, too. But I've come too far, and the S/O would murder me if I bought another bike.

[Cooter]

Theres a little peg that comes out of a hole in the end of the lock cylinder, into a hole in the steering neck, to physically stop the forks from turning. So If you move the lock cylinder down, out, or anything... that peg won't line up anymore.

I believe a RX upper triple and RX lock cylinder would still keep that functional (as the frames are the same), but then you'd have to deal with moving the I.C. out of the way of the key.


Edit: It's only murder... worth it

[gdisaac07]

Theres a little peg that comes out of a hole in the end of the lock cylinder, into a hole in the steering neck, to physically stop the forks from turning. So If you move the lock cylinder down, out, or anything... that peg won't line up anymore.

I believe a RX upper triple and RX lock cylinder would still keep that functional (as the frames are the same), but then you'd have to deal with moving the I.C. out of the way of the key.


Edit: It's only murder... worth it

Hmmmm. I haven't taken a good, hard look at the anatomy of the cylinder. But I suppose that any drop plate could have an appropriately sized protuberance that takes the place of the existing steering lock on the ignition cylinder.

If I add the RX upper triple and lock cylinder, then a couple things happen.

1. I can't use the stock SX display shroud
2. I can no longer do the handlebar quickswap

And unfortunately, that violates the main tenants of my goals. So I'm gonna have to do some engineering to make sure that everything works correctly with the SX triple.

You can't buy more bikes if you're dead!

[gdisaac07]

Theres a little peg that comes out of a hole in the end of the lock cylinder, into a hole in the steering neck, to physically stop the forks from turning. So If you move the lock cylinder down, out, or anything... that peg won't line up anymore.

I believe a RX upper triple and RX lock cylinder would still keep that functional (as the frames are the same), but then you'd have to deal with moving the I.C. out of the way of the key.


Edit: It's only murder... worth it

I found the answer and it's incredibly simple. Eliminate the ignition switch completely.

https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bi...on&key=43-0810

When I go to the track, I'll just install that bypass and leave the keys in the trailer.

[Cooter]

Thats nice to know someone pre-made that! Cool. You'll still have to completely remove the lock cylinder completely off the bike every time (use normal bolts of course).

gdisaac07: Do you sleep with the whole Woodcraft catalog? lol

I don't want to hi-jack this thread anymore so I'll start one in 1190SX for track conversions

[gdisaac07]

Thats nice to know someone pre-made that! Cool. You'll still have to completely remove the lock cylinder completely off the bike every time (use normal bolts of course).

gdisaac07: Do you sleep with the whole Woodcraft catalog? lol

I don't want to hi-jack this thread anymore so I'll start one in 1190SX for track conversions

Yeah I'm going to have to get down to that part of the assembly every time I go on track anyways so I can disconnect the headlight and turn signals. What's an extra 7 bolts among friends?

Nah, but I do live in MA so it's the kind of situation where if I get intoxicated enough and on their website, a day and a half later they deliver the whole catalog of parts to me.

That's a great idea!