I'm Sorry But You're Wrong..

I've been battling fuel pump issues and have seen many suggestions and I'd like to clarify some things based on my personal experiences:

1.) Many posts on fuel pump threading sizes to remove the assembly. Maybe they have changed throughout the years but, my 2014 has the 1/4 -20 thread size, not the M6 x 1.0 I've seen suggested.

2.) I've seen a few suggestions of replacement O-rings to get. Don't get the 35717 Ford water pump O-rings found at many local part stores. While you can put them on your fuel pump assembly just fine, they will not let the assembly go back into the frames hole, they are just too thick! Go with EBR O-rings or, I can confirm that I ended up using Honda part number 1301-107-000 for mine and bonus they were local.

3.) Walbro gss342 fuel pump as a replacement to the OEM unit. While the pump itself can be retrofit into the stock fuel pump assembly without major modifications, I believe it pushes too much fuel. I suppose an aftermarket fuel pressure regular may work but, probably not worth the money. I made this switch, so I will inform if I find a solution.

4.) The fuel pump float fix. I've seen a stainless steel aquarium float to fix the issue of the stocker losing floatabilty (not sure if that's even a word). It seems to be very sensitive to low fuel. I replaced the entire float assembly with the China aquarium float and it seem that around a half tank or so it registers as low fuel.

>>I'm sure I'm missing info, but this is just what I've come up with based on my install experiences. I'm probably wrong myself somewhere along the line but hopefully this can help others. Im sure some of the aforementioned issues can be refined to work. On a side note, I have posted some of these installs on my YouTube if interested = https://youtu.be/ewgO14xa7ro

Thanks for the info. A little rudely posted, but worthwhile.

1) Why would that matter if you just put the same bolts back in?

2) Would be much easier to get the right size from an o-ring store instead of finding an application? O-rings are simple and listed by size.

3) What are the psi/flow specs of the stock pump? What are the Walbro gss342 specs?

4) Isn't there an adjustment you can make? I haven't seen one, but it's a 'float' right?

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Originally Posted by Cooter

Thanks for the info. A little rudely posted, but worthwhile.

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I agree, it was a rather rough day yesterday, so I edited the original post and took out the sass.

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Originally Posted by Cooter

1) Why would that matter if you just put the same bolts back in?

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I need to upload pics to make more sense, but its the bolt hole to use to pull the fuel pump assembly out. EBR makes a puller to eliminate the guesswork. All you really need to get is a bolt that treads into the pump and give it a good yank.

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Originally Posted by Cooter

2) Would be much easier to get the right size from an o-ring store instead of finding an application? O-rings are simple and listed by size.

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Yes. I don't know the size off hand bc the originals stretch once you remove them. I found the Honda ones locally and cheap after I found the Ford orings to be too thick.

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Originally Posted by Cooter

3) What are the psi/flow specs of the stock pump? What are the Walbro gss342 specs?

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I have the stock specs written down someone, but the Walbro flows 255LPH.

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Originally Posted by Cooter

4) Isn't there an adjustment you can make? I haven't seen one, but it's a 'float' right?

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Not really much in the sense of adjustment, I'll find a pic. But potentially could have better results using the original "bolt" and the stainless aquarium float.

Leave the sass, it shows character lol

No worries man, really thanks for the info:thumb:

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Originally Posted by Nemesis

Leave the sass, it shows character lol

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Bahah fair enough. Not quite the character I was going for tho.

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Originally Posted by Cooter

No worries man, really thanks for the info:thumb:

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Thanks Cooter. I just want to save my fellow EBR diy'ers some grief.

On a side note: The OEM 1190 fuel pump is a Carter unit laser etched with the numbers
61522 080211 15034. A fellow rider has contacted Carter in the past and came up with a response of being a proprietary pump and that no info can be given out. What I've located was the following:

Stock Carter Unit
Operating Pressure: 15-90 PSI with the final fuel pressure set by regulator
Flow: 140-160 Liter Per Hour, at 3.0Bar/13.5V max

Aftermarket Walbro GSS342 Unit
Operating Pressure: 15-90 PSI with final fuel pressure also to be set by regulator
Flow Rate: 255 Liter Per Hour, at 3.0Bar/13.5v max

Walbro is roughly 1/4 too long, but is easy to retrofit into the stock fuel pump assembly. Stock connector even plugs directly into it.

you're right, that much extra flow from the Walbro could be a problem for the regulator to handle for sure.

Thanks for the specs, that will help considerably!!

First post, I hope this is useful. GSS342 is the high pressure 255 lph pump, there is also GSS317, still 255lph, but runs at a lower pressure. There is also a 190 lph Walbro pump (I think the part# is GSS250) that is physically identical to the 255 versions; this pump is popular for cars like the WRX because it gives a sizable increase in fuel flow without requiring an aftermarket FPR. This may be a better alternative ?

That is good info ACM, thanks for adding to this thread. 190lph is about the max addition to fuel flow I would be comfortable with in this application. You would need considerable engine mods on this bike to need more fuel than the stock pump delivers, much less any additional capacity. The pump will just work too hard to bypass a fully open regulator.

The amount of fuel injected is a matter of dwell. The open cycle time is calculated at a known pressure, and volume that is over the capacity of the lines or regulator will cause a pressure increase, increasing the amount of fuel injected per injector open cycle. All that gibberish means is adding a pump with higher pressure (or much volume) without compensating the fueling program will make the bike run rich and make less power.

In a car, especially a boosted one like a WRX, there is a lot more leeway just by being physically bigger engine, fuel lines, etc, and the OEM fuel pumps are much closer to the smallest the car will run on at WOT. . Crank up the boost and she'll need more supply!:cheers:

Update. Progress has been made!

I used an 1125 fuel pump assembly in my EBR 1190 and it's back up and running. While the fuel pump assemblies are nearly identical (same: wiring connector, fuel strainer, filter, casing, 0-rings, fuel line, etc) the main difference is in the fuel level system. 1125 uses a thermistor while the EBR uses a float style. Swapped that over and I was back running again. Now, I cannot verify 100% if the fuel pumps within the assemblies are the same, but what I can confirm is that they're both Carter fuel pumps laser etched with identical 61522 numbers on them. Not sure on the other etched numbers though.

EBR 1190 Carter Pump
Attachment 1986

Buell 1125 Carter Pump
Attachment 1987